Maxis still sells Creepy Crawlers in 37 12.50-15's but they are bias ply and EXPENSIVE.
Maybe swampers and other off road specialty tires
Maybe swampers and other off road specialty tires
Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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If you want to try some really aggressive mud tires that are radials. Badak X-Treme. They offer a 35- 10.50-15. They are supposed to be true to advertised size too.
I almost bought a set of 37's because of the price. IDK how they'd be on the highway.
I almost bought a set of 37's because of the price. IDK how they'd be on the highway.
- Thread starter
- #163
I was looking at the KM3s in 35s as they’re offered in 15s as well but I will for sure look into the other mentions. The current price of tires is insane and I’d love to save money there but I do wanna drive this thing in the highway.
It’s good to know about the heavy BS on 17s, the reason for even looking at new rims is one of mine has a different back spacing that hits the front brake calipers (v6 calipers) which forced me to run some wheel spacers. It’s not the end of the world, just a minor annoyance.
It’s good to know about the heavy BS on 17s, the reason for even looking at new rims is one of mine has a different back spacing that hits the front brake calipers (v6 calipers) which forced me to run some wheel spacers. It’s not the end of the world, just a minor annoyance.
- Thread starter
- #164
I should’ve looked at those before I posted. I really dig the looks of them but I do wonder if they’ve got a life of 10k miles due to the aggressiveness (I’m over exaggerating).
Those are temping just for the looks alone though.
They definitely look badass. There's a YouTube video showing how to cut them for different terrain. Not a lot of long term reviews. They've had some good sales. For the price at the time I looked, I almost got a set. I probably would have tried them if I lived where it was muddy and wet.
consider the ifs wheel hub and late brake swap.
- Thread starter
- #167
I’ve done that to this truck thankfully. It also has an 80s series master and the dual diaphragm brake booster. I do need to change how my calipers are mounted (aka thread them) I had put the on the other side of the knuckle and drilled them for a 1/2 grade 8 bolt with a nut.
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- #168
Carpet is in and the back panel was shampooed to clean it up. All that’s left is to cut the transmission hole out which I’ll wait to do until the engine is back in. I also made an adapter harness for the flatbed. I changed the Toyota end to the same style of connector. The only wire missing is for the reverse lights because it’s built into the light itself. I do still have to run the reverse light wires to the transmission itself as I’ve never had them working since converting this truck to EFI.
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- #169
I know this is a fairly stupid question, I’m not sure if I just can’t search google right (probably) or what but I figured I’d post up here in case someone knows.
Can I install high steer without an engine in? My brain says no since you need to check for oil pan clearance but it also would be easier than putting the block I have back in again (for the 20th time). It isn’t big deal if I have to, I’m just lazy and tired of pulling it in and out to test fit random crap.
I have a TG kit I bought back in 2016 with a flat pitman arm so I’m hoping to make it work with the small lift I have. I’ve always hated the stock steering and it’s one thing I’ve always wanted to fix.
Can I install high steer without an engine in? My brain says no since you need to check for oil pan clearance but it also would be easier than putting the block I have back in again (for the 20th time). It isn’t big deal if I have to, I’m just lazy and tired of pulling it in and out to test fit random crap.
I have a TG kit I bought back in 2016 with a flat pitman arm so I’m hoping to make it work with the small lift I have. I’ve always hated the stock steering and it’s one thing I’ve always wanted to fix.
you can.
you need to have the t100 pan for the RZ.
sorry idr if you were talking about changing springs but if so id probably wait until then.
you need to make sure everything fits tidy. especially on ifs frame.
Here's my vid doing the steering stuff on my 85
- Thread starter
- #171
I’ve got the T100 oil pan all ready to go. I’m hoping to install the engine in a week or two. I’m not planning on changing the front springs, I’m pretty happy with the OME fronts, the rears are what need fixing. I appreciate the video! That’ll be very helpful.
Are you planning to combine brake and turn into a single light? I did that on my flatbed and used a taillight converter and load resistors for the flash.
After burning up the cheap taillight converters every few years, I added some relays to take the load out of the converter.
- Thread starter
- #173
Brake and turn signal will be separate lights. It’ll be the same setup as I had before. This harness will plug in to the factory harness and keeps everything working on the stock wiring.
This is how it’ll look, this photo is from years ago when I first built the flatbed.
- Thread starter
- #174
Work on the painting of the flatbed has finally started. My plan is to use epoxy primer and Monstaliner on it. Last time I used Monstaliner I had issues with it not bonding to the undercoating I had applied (my fault, they weren’t compatible) so I decided to take it down to bare steel and start fresh.
All in all it took me about 12 hours to do the whole thing. I used paint stripping wheels on a grinder for it and then a die grinder to clean up the welds. I have to give the cordless Milwaukee grinder props. I’ve been using it for this whole project, sometimes burning through 7 batteries with the only rest being the time to change the battery and it’s had zero issues and is still like new. It does eat through batteries though. I’ve got two of the 12AH batteries and I mainly use them and while they’re charging I’ll use some 5 AH and 3 AH high output batteries.
Still need to sand with 120 grit but I first plan on sanding with 60 to clean some more of it up.
All in all it took me about 12 hours to do the whole thing. I used paint stripping wheels on a grinder for it and then a die grinder to clean up the welds. I have to give the cordless Milwaukee grinder props. I’ve been using it for this whole project, sometimes burning through 7 batteries with the only rest being the time to change the battery and it’s had zero issues and is still like new. It does eat through batteries though. I’ve got two of the 12AH batteries and I mainly use them and while they’re charging I’ll use some 5 AH and 3 AH high output batteries.
Still need to sand with 120 grit but I first plan on sanding with 60 to clean some more of it up.
That's a LOT of sanding. Looks great.
- Thread starter
- #176
It wasn’t the most enjoyable but it was satisfying watching progress. I did it in little areas so I could see results and not overwhelm myself with the amount that was left.
One thing to note about those paint stripping discs, they do get the metal hot. I’d be a little bit concerned on thin metal that it may warp. The steel on this truck is 11 gauge so I wasn’t worried. Below is what I used, they were cheaper than Home Depot or my local welding supply and lasted forever. I don’t think I burned through a single one to where it wasn’t useable for a different project.
www.empireabrasives.com
One thing to note about those paint stripping discs, they do get the metal hot. I’d be a little bit concerned on thin metal that it may warp. The steel on this truck is 11 gauge so I wasn’t worried. Below is what I used, they were cheaper than Home Depot or my local welding supply and lasted forever. I don’t think I burned through a single one to where it wasn’t useable for a different project.
5" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc
5" x 7/8" Black Hawk Abrasives Easy Strip and Clean Disc allows the operator to easy remove paint, rust, corrosion, sealants, adhesives, and many other imperfections without geometrically affecting the material beneath. This 5 inch strip and clean disc is composed of silicon carbide abrasive...
www.empireabrasives.com
I have cordless grinders, but I also have a 7" corded grinder and a couple 4.5" corded grinders. The cordless ones are fine for a bit here and there, but I reach for the corded ones if I have a larger project like that. Remember that those batteries have a limited number of cycles.
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- #178
A corded grinder would’ve been a lot better and definitely put a lot less wear on the batteries. The only reason for running a cordless is due to this shop not having power. Currently to run the lights I have a 100’ 15 amp extension cord running to the shop or I have to run a generator. I usually reserve the generator for running my little welder.
That does make a difference. I saw the cord running under the truck and the cords on the wall and figured you had power available.
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- #180
Haha there’s a bunch of extension cords running from a heavy duty surge protector to have power throughout the shop but I try to be mindful of the amount of amps I’m pulling when running all the different things. I’ve avoided using a coffered angle grinder since the good ones pull at least 11 amps.
