Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
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- Thread starter
- #122
Finally made some progress on the wiring. Almost all the wires are ID’d on the 3RZ harness.
Are all 4Runners wired for 4WD even if they don’t have it? This engine, harness, and ECU came from a 2wd 4Runner with an auto but 4 of the wires on the II3 plug line up with the 4wd with ADD hubs section of my wiring manual. This doesn’t seem to odd to me as it’s easier to make one wiring harness for both 2wd and 4wd models but I’d like to make sure.
As well, with this being an OBD2 vehicle and me using the auto ECU for now, am I still able to remove all the automatic transmission wires from the inside and just jump the NSS at the transmission connector to get it to run? Eventually I’ll use a manual ECU but I’d like to make sure before I go removing stuff I shouldn’t have.
Took over the island to work inside thanks to the cold weather we’re getting in the PNW. Every wire has blue masking tape that tells me what junction it went to and what switch.
I will add if looking for an EWD, be wary of ManualBasket on eBay. They copy the original manual and send you the copy. I got the 1989 pickup manual from them and it still smelled of fresh ink, which isn’t a big deal for me I just wish they were honest about it.
Are all 4Runners wired for 4WD even if they don’t have it? This engine, harness, and ECU came from a 2wd 4Runner with an auto but 4 of the wires on the II3 plug line up with the 4wd with ADD hubs section of my wiring manual. This doesn’t seem to odd to me as it’s easier to make one wiring harness for both 2wd and 4wd models but I’d like to make sure.
As well, with this being an OBD2 vehicle and me using the auto ECU for now, am I still able to remove all the automatic transmission wires from the inside and just jump the NSS at the transmission connector to get it to run? Eventually I’ll use a manual ECU but I’d like to make sure before I go removing stuff I shouldn’t have.
Took over the island to work inside thanks to the cold weather we’re getting in the PNW. Every wire has blue masking tape that tells me what junction it went to and what switch.
I will add if looking for an EWD, be wary of ManualBasket on eBay. They copy the original manual and send you the copy. I got the 1989 pickup manual from them and it still smelled of fresh ink, which isn’t a big deal for me I just wish they were honest about it.
- Thread starter
- #124
Sweet, that’s what I figured. I also found a couple of threads for things I’m going to try. One is resistors to trick the ECU into thinking the shift solenoids are still there and the other was a possible way to not have the EVAP box, but still hav the gas tank vapors vented into the engine.
I’ve also been researching hose the cruise control functions in the 1998 4Runner and I may run into some issues getting it to work. It seems like the drive indication will need to be wired to a 12 volt source for cruise to work. My plan is to wire a switch for the clutch that will remove 12 volts from it when pushed so cruise deactivates when it is pushed in.
EVAP canister thread
Toyota-4Runner.org - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217145-charcoal-canister-evap-system-delete-2.html
Potential way to remove transmission codes
A340F- to -W59 - https://www.ttora.com/threads/a340f-to-w59.157706/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest
I’ve also been researching hose the cruise control functions in the 1998 4Runner and I may run into some issues getting it to work. It seems like the drive indication will need to be wired to a 12 volt source for cruise to work. My plan is to wire a switch for the clutch that will remove 12 volts from it when pushed so cruise deactivates when it is pushed in.
EVAP canister thread
Toyota-4Runner.org - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217145-charcoal-canister-evap-system-delete-2.html
Potential way to remove transmission codes
A340F- to -W59 - https://www.ttora.com/threads/a340f-to-w59.157706/page-2?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest
- Thread starter
- #125
Finally got a new cylinder head in. Ordered it off eBay, I’m not 100% impressed with it out of the box but the price was right. I may end up disassembling it and taking it to a machine shop a mechanic friend told me about and have them deck it again to get a better finish. The scratch that’s present in the photo can be felt with my fingernail. There’s a chance this engine may see some boost in the future so I’d like to not worry about the HG at all.
I did check the flatness of the deck compared to the Toyota specs and it is within tolerance
I also plan on doing some porting and polishing to smooth out the rough edges. I’ve done it in the past on an old ford 460 and was impressed with how the ports looked afterwards.
I also got my butt connectors in, they’re not your
normal heat shrink style, these have a sealant inside to keep moisture and air out and they have a copper connector in the center. I don’t want to solder my connections together as I don’t trust it compared to a quality crimp for vibration environments.
I did check the flatness of the deck compared to the Toyota specs and it is within tolerance
I also plan on doing some porting and polishing to smooth out the rough edges. I’ve done it in the past on an old ford 460 and was impressed with how the ports looked afterwards.
I also got my butt connectors in, they’re not your
normal heat shrink style, these have a sealant inside to keep moisture and air out and they have a copper connector in the center. I don’t want to solder my connections together as I don’t trust it compared to a quality crimp for vibration environments.
- Thread starter
- #126
I am a bit confused on the wiring of the VSS between the 22re and the 3RZ. The 3RZ harness has three wires for the VSS, a B-Y, P-L and a GR-L. The 22re only has a G-L wire. In order to wire it correctly, would I just need to attach the B-Y, P-L and GR-L wires to the G-L wire on the 22re harness? I do see that the B-Y wire feeds the P-L wire through a transistor while the GR-L is only through a resistor.
Or am I not even looking at the correct spot for it? I’ve been referencing the wiring diagram from liveoak’s thread and I noticed his is fed from E5, I do understand that there are differences due to years.
3RZ wiring
22re wiring
Or am I not even looking at the correct spot for it? I’ve been referencing the wiring diagram from liveoak’s thread and I noticed his is fed from E5, I do understand that there are differences due to years.
3RZ wiring
22re wiring
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- #128
Ah, that makes more sense now. With you saying that and looking at liveoaks diagram a few more times I think it’s making sense. The B-Y, P-L and the GR-L aren’t needed as they feed the speedometer which then feeds the ECU and Cruise control through the G-O wire. Since the 22re is sending the VSS signal through the G-L wire, you’d just connect that to the G-O wire on the 3RZ side. I hope that makes sense.
I was looking at the diagram wrong. That is what was throwing me off. Thank you for your help!
Looking good man! Haven't been on in a few years. Glad to see some familiar names still active. Also LCE sucks ass. They may have once been good but are now an over-priced boutique Toyota outfit. They have pissed me off too many times and there are just to many other good sources out there. What brand head did you go with? Might be buying a 5vz taco soon with a cracked head and was also looking at an aftermarket head.
- Thread starter
- #130
It’s nice to see you come back around!
This is who I got the head from. I have decided I’m going to have the deck of it refinished to a better quality for peace of mind.
LCE has definitely gone up in price and the offerings don’t seem as good as when I needed to rebuild my 22re in 2016. I may get their header for this swap due to the quality issues from Toyota. I also may just run this stock manifold until it cracks and I need to replace it.
I’ve also figured out how I’m going to test this wiring. I’m going to connect the wires using Wago connectors to make sure it all works before finalizing the connections due to my lack of trust in myself to have it right the first time.
I literally just bought a ton of those wagos yesterday, too funny. I've got LCE's header and the only complaint I have is the finish on it. After a year or so it starts to flake and degrade and after 2-3 it starts looking pretty crummy. Performance wise it's awesome, probably the best item they offer IMO. I do recommend their header but before you install I would refinish it with one the products offered by Tech Line Coatings. They have a bunch of different options so you will need to see what will work best for you. I've done a few tractor manifolds with great results even after a year of use. Tech Line Coatings Industries Inc - https://techlinecoatings.com/
- Thread starter
- #132
Cylinder head is stripped down and waiting to be ported and polished before going to the machine shop. I’m pretty sure I’m going to need to adjust the valves on this as a few are too tight. Once I get the head back I’m going to double check the clearances (should’ve done it before disassembly). They aren’t shim over like the stock ones, they appear to be a shimless bucket which doesn’t make me very happy the one in the photo has 550 in it and another one has 546 which is why I think it’s a shimless bucket.
I may go with a shim under buckets so I can have adjustment in the future if I can’t get these ones dialed in.
I did get the ports marked out so I can port and polish them. The intake side is good but the exhaust side will need some decent work. I don’t expect this to make a difference, it’s more to just clean up the casting since it’s of cheaper quality.
I may go with a shim under buckets so I can have adjustment in the future if I can’t get these ones dialed in.
I did get the ports marked out so I can port and polish them. The intake side is good but the exhaust side will need some decent work. I don’t expect this to make a difference, it’s more to just clean up the casting since it’s of cheaper quality.
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- Thread starter
- #133
Not a lot done to it. Finally took the wiring harness out to start laying it out inside the cab and figuring out where it’ll all go. I was able to remove the old brake switch and splice the wires to the new brake switch with all the cruise control doodads on it.
I am trying to figure out where to put the cruise control ECU. This is on top of the heater core, I like this spot and it fits wells but my concern is heat coming from the metal tubes on top and ruining the ECU.
Is this an issue I need to be concerned about or would it handle itself just fine right there?
I am trying to figure out where to put the cruise control ECU. This is on top of the heater core, I like this spot and it fits wells but my concern is heat coming from the metal tubes on top and ruining the ECU.
Is this an issue I need to be concerned about or would it handle itself just fine right there?
how'd you even get it uo there?
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- #135
I had decided that I wanted to rip the dash apart again. I hope this is the last time.how'd you even get it uo there?
I did take a better photo of where it would rest on the heater core. I’m thinking if I do mount it there I’ll need to add a heat insulation the more I look at it. There is limited room under the dashes of these old trucks and I don’t feel like throwing it in the glove box like I had the 22re ECU.
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- #136
Had plenty of time this weekend so I knocked a lot out. I got the 4Runner fuse box mounted, the fuel line, return line and evap line are all ran. I ran them over the rear crossmember and up the drivers side. They have a heat shield over them where the exhaust will go. Hopefully I won’t have any issues, if I do I’m going to convert all of it to AN line and make it real easily to route it.
Got the battery tray in from ORS too, it fits well and I’m happy with it. I plan on using a 3.4 air box on the passenger side so I needed to relocate the battery, I also purchased their extended fusible link as a long time ago my fusible link died and I (young and dumber) replaced it with regular wire.
I soldered the three 470 ohm resistors and the one 2.2k ohm resistor for the AT fluid temp. I hope they’re the correct one as I have no way of verifying by testing the actual solenoids themselves.
Solenoid resistors wired to ground
AT oil sensor.
Next on my list is fixing some of the halfassery I did in high school. Like using spade connectors for marker lights and turn signals. I’ve definitely found stuff that make me shake my head at myself over how I did it.
Got the battery tray in from ORS too, it fits well and I’m happy with it. I plan on using a 3.4 air box on the passenger side so I needed to relocate the battery, I also purchased their extended fusible link as a long time ago my fusible link died and I (young and dumber) replaced it with regular wire.
I soldered the three 470 ohm resistors and the one 2.2k ohm resistor for the AT fluid temp. I hope they’re the correct one as I have no way of verifying by testing the actual solenoids themselves.
Solenoid resistors wired to ground
AT oil sensor.
Next on my list is fixing some of the halfassery I did in high school. Like using spade connectors for marker lights and turn signals. I’ve definitely found stuff that make me shake my head at myself over how I did it.
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- Thread starter
- #137
I did find out that Toyota put a bolt in the clutch pedal bracket that is the same threads as the brake switch. My plan is the use a cruise control brake pedal switch to complete the 12v circuit to the 3rz drive wire so that cruise is deactivated when the clutch is pressed. The nice things about using the cruise control one is that it has two pins that complete a circuit when the clutch is depressed or when it’s resting against the switch.
This will allow me to use the other two pins that complete circuit when the clutch is pressed to activate the neutral safety switch wires so the computer doesn’t see neutral all the time and throw a code.
This will allow me to use the other two pins that complete circuit when the clutch is pressed to activate the neutral safety switch wires so the computer doesn’t see neutral all the time and throw a code.
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- #138
Got started on the part I’ve been dreading body wise. I built this flatbed as a junior in high school and I was never really happy with how it finished. Lots of welds needed grinding and undercut needed filling. I haven’t taken a lot of photos as it’s just weld, grind, and weld some more. But the back piece is mostly done. Still have some finish grinding I need to do.
I went from this
To this
The plan is to run led lights with built in reverse lamps as I’ve never really had reverse work on this truck. I had actually wired some spot lights to a toggle switch for “reverse” lights. I also will sand it all down and coat it with exposure primer and then monstaliner it again.
I went from this
To this
The plan is to run led lights with built in reverse lamps as I’ve never really had reverse work on this truck. I had actually wired some spot lights to a toggle switch for “reverse” lights. I also will sand it all down and coat it with exposure primer and then monstaliner it again.
- Thread starter
- #139
Not much progress has been made. I’ve been doing a lot more welding, grinding, sanding, and painting. I spent the last week prepping and painting the underside of the flatbed. Finally got it installed today with a walbro fuel pump and new vent and return rubber lines. Now it’s time to finish stripped the top half and behind sanding in prep for primer and then bed liner.
While moving the truck around I noticed that some of the protective covering on the extended brake lines has split. I may order a new set from Marlin before I bleed the brakes although I don’t see how this would cause any other problems than trapping dirt inside and rubbing against the stainless steel brake line.
While moving the truck around I noticed that some of the protective covering on the extended brake lines has split. I may order a new set from Marlin before I bleed the brakes although I don’t see how this would cause any other problems than trapping dirt inside and rubbing against the stainless steel brake line.
Have you ran this truck and flexed it before? That rear shackle angle looks past vertical, but it may just be the pic.
