Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (3 Viewers)

[Mudder]

Well that's a downer. How many miles were on it? Lived a pretty rough life, however many.

According to the gauge cluster that came with it all, 171k. I’m thinking they ran it low on oil based off of all the damage to the bearings.

Awe man, that sucks. Hopefully you find another good engine or a good deal to get a reman. Good luck.

Because I’m an idiot I’m going to try and ball hone it to see if the grooves will clean up (highly unlikely) if not I’ll probably buy a Toyota short block as they only run 2800. The machine shop was willing to bore the block but not do any assembly whatsoever and by the time I added up new parts to put in a bored block to was close to the same as a short block.

 

[Mudder]

Well, to no one’s surprised the ball hone did not work. I can still feel some of the grooves on cylinder 3, because of that it’ll be a new short block from Toyota. I did get the new fuel tank in so I’ll be getting the lines ran and I can use this engine as a mock-up if needed.

 

[Mudder]

Ended up pulling the dash apart again to see what/if any connectors would work between the current setup (89 parts) and the 98 4Runner dash harness. The only thing that plugged in was the hazard button.

The reason for checking is I have almost all the cruise control stuff from the 98 4Runner minus the steering wheel stuff. Does anyone know if I can remove the cruise control wiring and make a standalone harness? I’m going to be looking at wiring diagrams tomorrow as well.

 

[gnob]

Ended up pulling the dash apart again to see what/if any connectors would work between the current setup (89 parts) and the 98 4Runner dash harness. The only thing that plugged in was the hazard button.

The reason for checking is I have almost all the cruise control stuff from the 98 4Runner minus the steering wheel stuff. Does anyone know if I can remove the cruise control wiring and make a standalone harness? I’m going to be looking at wiring diagrams tomorrow as well.

yes. its a pretty simple circuit.

I'm actually using an electric cc motor as a hand throttle.

 

[Mudder]

that’s good to hear. It’s nice to have something go right with this truck for once!

 

[Mudder]

Front cross member is burned in. Used some 2.5x2.5x.250 square tubing. I’ll figure out mount holes for a bumper later. If anything I’ll just weld the damn thing on anyways. The front clip is just sitting on there for now. It’s going to take some work to get it sitting right it seems. I may end up pulling it off and comparing it to the original front clip.

For those who have done this swap, is this how the motor mount brackets go? I feel like an idiot asking this question but for some reason my brain is struggling with how these look. I did swap the rubber mounts from the 3RZ side to side if that makes a difference.

Passenger side motor mount (I feel like this should be flipped but I’m not sure)

Drivers side mount

 

[88repo]

What sort of issue you having with the clip?

In the middle of the same project here, only a little further behind where you're currently at.
I have tons of pics and arrow straight clip to measure if you need anything.

 

[Mudder]

It appears that the front clip from the 88 may need to have some metal cut out around where it mates to the upper portion of the cab. I’ll confirm this tomorrow if I can. I do appreciate the offer if I need measurement.

After looking at more 3RZ swap photos of the engine, it does appear that the engine itself doesn’t sit level but the intake manifolds should. I feel like an idiot not realizing this if that it is the case.

 

[RichardSkinner]

I like that you're asking the motor mount question. I'll be at that phase very shortly and it saves me from potentially being the goof off.

 

[Mudder]

I like that you're asking the motor mount question. I'll be at that phase very shortly and it saves me from potentially being the goof off.

Haha I don’t mind looking like an idiot. I’m very good at it in person too.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Haha I don’t mind looking like an idiot. I’m very good at it in person too.

I guess I grazed over your question at first knowing when I go to drop my block in I would read it more thoroughly. Well this morning is that day.

If I understand you correctly, yes, the engine sits canted towards passenger side just as it did in the donor truck. 5 degrees. That makes the bell housing line up correctly to the trans without having to clock your trans if the motor was sat vertically - along with fitting a tall engine in there im sure.

 

[Mudder]

Well the front clips is welded in. It fit like s*** and the welds look like s*** but I’m not about to buy a new cab and the cab this clip came off of was trashed as well. There was some damage to the inside that I got out as good as I could from it being in a wreck as well. I only have an initial picture, next time I work on it I’ll get an after picture of the damage.

Before

After, still not the best but it should work.

 

[Mudder]

Whoever out the Builds prefix, thank you!

Front clip is painted, battery tray removed, and the 3RZ is “in”. This is so I have a clue where this spaghetti of wiring goes so I can start figuring it all out. It’s mostly labeled from but a few have fallen off. I did get a level in the intake manifold and I am happy with it. The supervisor even signed off on it!

 

[Mudder]

I’m finally wanting to dive back into this thing. Having the engine be toast was definitely a mood killer for working on it.

That being said, for the engine bay wiring I’m wanting to remove as many unnecessary circuits as I can. I’ve read some of the 3RZ swap thread on Marlin Crawler and a few on Pirate but I want to be 100% certain so I don’t F it up. I struggle a bit with wiring as it always feels daunting.

I do plan on using both the 3RZ and 22re fuse boxes in the engine bay.

From the 22re, it looks like I can remove the factory alternator wiring and use the 3RZ stuff, is this correct or will there be a dash light thrown?

From the 3RZ engine fuse box, it looks like I can remove the head light wiring. And for the starter wire, is there any “special” way to connect that? I know for the old 22re wiring I had to use a starter solenoid from a Ford Bronco due to voltage drop issues with the wire. I’d like to avoid those issues this time.

I did get the fuel pump bracket mounted but I ruined the hose from the metal line to the fuel pump assembly so I’ll need to figure that out. I did have to make a new hot wire for the fuel pump as the supplies one was way too short.

 

[gnob]

there's no real reason to use any of the rz chassis harness unless yours is damaged or something.

 

[Mudder]

IL2, E5, D7 and all the cruise control wiring is pulled. I depinned all the wires from their original connectors. I’ll remove that wires I don’t need once I have them identified.

 

[Mudder]

This is a work in progress, but posting it here in case something happens to the photos or papers.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Any update on this? Don’t lose steam!

I saw this and figured it might answer your question in engine angle

The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread - Page 2

The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread - Page 2

board.marlincrawler.com

 

[Mudder]

I haven’t touched it in a while. With the engine needing the extra work and no machine shop within an hour drive that can do it I’ve just been putting it off and focusing on a few other projects I needed to do before winter. Hopefully this winter I’ll find another 3RZ to put in or I’ll take the block, crank and rods to a shop about 3 hours away from me.

 

[Mudder]

Took advantage of the Black Friday deals at Toyota and got a short block for $2200. I couldn’t find a good machine shop to do the work so I decided to go with the best option out there. I’ll still have to get a rebuild head but this will allow me to get the transmission bolt up and free up my work bench from all the parts.