Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (3 Viewers)

[Mudder]

After looking more at what I needed to fix underneath the truck I decided pulling the cab was the easiest thing to do. The fuel and vent lines are too long (came from an 89 ex cab) and are not ran even remotely correct so I will finally be fixing that

 

[Mudder]

Underside of the cab is washed. Going to get some wire wheels and then order some POR-15 to take care of it and the frame. Figured I’m in this far, may as well pull the brake lines and make sure the frame is properly treated.

 

[lISAGETTER]

Underside of the cab is washed. Going to get some wire wheels and then order some POR-15 to take care of it and the frame. Figured I’m in this far, may as well pull the brake lines and make sure the frame is properly treated.

View attachment 3301109

while you have it down that far you might want to consider some under coat. ive used this stuff from 3 m called shutz. willl require a compressor and to puchase their gun.covers really well with a textured finish as well as a mild kinda satin finish. makes the underside look real good. and does add a small bit of sound deadining.

 

[clx16]

I found that body to frame "Pockets" that are reinforced to the belly pan there, are spot welded, but not sealed well to keep water from getting between them and the belly pans. I had to cut out and fix some belly pans as there was rust jacking between them. So once you have it all clean you might want to seam seal them in from the under side. Of course mine is older and yours might have been improved upon by the time they made your model.

 

[Mudder]

I’ll make sure to check frame pockets, I appreciate the heads up.

I think I’ve decided on Chassis Saver for doing the whole frame, underside of the cab, and taking care of the underside of the flatbed that will be on it. I like the roll on as I don’t have electricity in this shop yet.

 

[Mudder]

Ordered Chassis Saver today. Got two gallons of it as I need to coat the underside of the flatbed.

Brake lines, fuel lines, shocks, and wire holders are all off the frame. Already did a pass with a wire wheel and am going to clean it with degreaser tomorrow so it’s ready. I’m hoping to get the cab on within the next two weeks so I can get it painted inside and the interior put back together for now.

 

[Mudder]

Has anyone found a good replacement for these clips or have the Toyota part number? I’ve found a few but they don’t look as good as the Toyota ones and I’d like to have my wiring harness secured properly this time, not zip tires like I had it before.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Looking good!

A few 3RZ swaps going on around here. Going to be good to keep us all accountable on forward progress.

 

[Mudder]

Looking good!

A few 3RZ swaps going on around here. Going to be good to keep us all accountable on forward progress.

I’ve been watching your thread and can’t wait to see where the truck currently stands. You’ve put a lot of work into it.


Got the frame cleaned with a degreaser and ended up finding a good sized rust hole in it. I’ll be doing the cab too so it’ll be ready. I may end up throng the underside of the cab with some spray paint and calling it good. We shall see.

 

[Mudder]

Got the underside of the cab done. Used some self etching primer due to some bare metal spots being present then hit it with two coats of Rustoleum undercoating spray.

 

[Mudder]

The high pressure fuel tank line I have on this truck is from an 89 extended cab that should have enough length of me to route it however I please. I know the 3RZ fuel filter is on the drivers side, would it be wise to cross the fuel line at the back half of the frame (right behind the cab) and run it up the drivers side, or is it better to run it further up the passenger side before crossing over due to the exhaust?

 

[clx16]

If your brake lines go up the passenger side then you can just run it up the same way and cross over on the firewall like the brake lines do and it should look pretty clean. Just will be more tube bending and not Many people enjoy that as much as you would think.

 

[gnob]

use stock hp line. relocate filter. we went to boneyard and grabbed a hose from a tercel(corolla was longer or had the correct 90)
either way.
Post in thread 'todd's stinking blue pile' todd's stinking blue pile - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/todds-stinking-blue-pile.489510/post-6710641

 

[Mudder]

use stock hp line. relocate filter. we went to boneyard and grabbed a hose from a tercel(corolla was longer or had the correct 90)
either way.
Post in thread 'todd's stinking blue pile' todd's stinking blue pile - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/todds-stinking-blue-pile.489510/post-6710641

I was hoping to relocate the filter. I did it on the 22re that was previously in there and it made it so nice when I got a bad tank of fuel on a road trip.

 

[gnob]

3rz swap was much easier than the 5vz. lmk if you have questions.

 

[Mudder]

I unearthed the other tub of stuff I got when I bought this 3RZ (thanks @H8PVMNT). It’s from a 2WD 98 4Runner auto, I do have the gauge cluster (with tach), the whole interior wiring harness, full engine harness, stock cat, EVAP and coil plugs. My plan is to use the 3RZ interior wiring and just mate it to the back half wiring (tail lights, fuel tank, sender, reverse lights). I figure this will make it simplistic to swap as wiring is not my strong point and I don’t want to spent $630 for an adapter harness.

 

[Mudder]

I’ve been finding conflicting information online, does anyone know if an auto 3RZ ECU 2WD is plug and play (as in connectors) with a manual 3RZ ECU? I know some moving of pins may be required but I’m wonder if I can get a manual ECU to avoid codes for the automatic transmission.

 

[gnob]

it depends. toyota changed plugs a few times.
you can log onto TIS and dig through manuals.
the plugs vary by year and auto vs manual

 

[Mudder]

Got more stuff ordered to keep moving forward. I finally ordered a 110/220 ESAB mig welder to help repair the front crossmember and some holes that I had cut in the cab. I’ll post more on that later. I ordered some skill at to do the firewall so I can get the dash back together once the cab is back in the frame (hopefully this weekend). The Chassis Saver arrives today so I’ll be working on that this week.

 

[Mudder]

The frame is painted. I did 4 coats of Chassis Saver and used about a half a gallon. It would’ve been easier to spray on but brushing it worked well too.

I got my patch panels cut from the donor cab to replace the holes I had made a while ago that were all messed up. This will allow everything to seal like it should.

I also opened up the fuel tank finally. I’ve been dreading it due to knowing that it would be trashed and sure enough, it was. So a new tank, pump, pump holder and sending unit will be being ordered and the lines flushed before I start the 3RZ.