Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild

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There appears to be a handful of dealers doing it. Serra Toyota of Decatur AL is also doing it. I’ve added the rest of the seals and such I’ll need and it’s a significant savings currently. It ended up being $360 after all the discounts were applied.

This is the Toyota website I used to check for the best price on the block.


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My dealer in Albuquerque is also doing Black Friday. The discount doesn't appear to be anything more than usual.
 
There appears to be a handful of dealers doing it. Serra Toyota of Decatur AL is also doing it. I’ve added the rest of the seals and such I’ll need and it’s a significant savings currently. It ended up being $360 after all the discounts were applied.

This is the Toyota website I used to check for the best price on the block.


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thanks for the heads up. I noticed the site would only go back as far as 1991. Is there a workaround to look at older years or just look for individual dealers?
 
thanks for the heads up. I noticed the site would only go back as far as 1991. Is there a workaround to look at older years or just look for individual dealers?
Use a different dealer website. I seem to recall there are two versions of the online EPC. The problem is neither are very good.

I can look up stuff for my 1985 at my dealer, but it's limited. American Toyota Parts

Lately I've been using the EPC at partsouq.com out of the Middle East and it works great.

Once you have the part number you can shop at any of the other dealers, even if they won't let you look something up.

I used to look up parts at 7zap.com, but they have become fee based.
 
Well I’m pretty annoyed at this. I’m not sure if I should contact today over all this surface rust or if it’s a moot point, any thoughts from anyone?

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I meant to add, the circled sections are after taking some scotchbrite to them. The cylinder walls I haven’t messed with yet but will try tomorrow. I’m hoping I can save this block otherwise it’s another 8 hour round trip to the place I bought it from.

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I've been using all of the above sites for parts searches. Always looking for insight on what is being carried and where, to keep the old truck going. Parts acquisition and info is always useful when our trucks are getting over the 30 year range. I have a 22re block I got from Toyota a few years ago. I have never taken it out of the box, but I hope it is still ok. Based on Mudder's photos, I might have to take a look.
 
I've been using all of the above sites for parts searches. Always looking for insight on what is being carried and where, to keep the old truck going. Parts acquisition and info is always useful when our trucks are getting over the 30 year range. I have a 22re block I got from Toyota a few years ago. I have never taken it out of the box, but I hope it is still ok. Based on Mudder's photos, I might have to take a look.
I would double check it. I’m going to try some CLR as @aztoyman suggested. My biggest concern is pitting. Even if it’s the smallest pit in calling and seeing what they wanna do about it. Once’s it’s cleaned up I’m coating the bores and deck with ATF and storing it inside the house.
 
I always hated cleaning Cosmoline off parts but they sure didn't have rust on them. Even WWII surplus items. If you're going to store it long term, I'd use something better than ATF. There are spray on options out there. I hope your block is ok and just a cosmetic issue.
 
Bit more elbow grease and it came out with no pits. Used CLR and a fresh scotchbrite pad. Checked the flatness with my machinist edge as well to ensure it’s within spec. Have it a light coat of ATF and through a moisture packet in there. Once I get back from a training I’ll coat it with engine specific stuff that can hold up for a while to ensure I don’t deal with this again. I can find any locally and leave tomorrow so I don’t want to come back to rust again.

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Has anyone bought an aftermarket 3rz head? I’m debating between a cheaper Chinese one with camshafts, a rebuilt one from Yota1 (about $1600 since I doubt I’ll get my core charge back due to the canes being roaches) or going with LCE and spending almost 3300 for a head and camshafts.

Ideally I’d love to keep it cheaper, but I also don’t want to be “that guy” who sends a bad core in knowing or end with a junk head that wipes out my new short block.
 
Why not boneyard a head and send it to a machine shop?
A lot of the high mileage ones can have possible cracked valve seats due to no one checking valve clearances. I also don’t have a good machine shop around me, the best one I’ve heard of is about 3 hours away.

Plus, being in the PNW there’s not a whole lot of options. I actually looked at Car-Parts for them and the prices range from 350 used to 800 new.
 
Is your head not rebuildable? JMO, but I'd stay away from the cheaper stuff.

If you haven't already, give Jim a call at 22REP.
 

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