Mine was plug and play. My 3rz was from a 2001 prerunner auto 2wd and I found a 2001 3rz ecu 4x4 manual. plugged right in for me, did not have to move any pins from what i remember.
Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mudder
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- Thread starter
- #42
That’s good to know even with it being a 4wd. Does the dash light work when you engage 4wd and low range?
Chassis saver better than POR 15? Advantages? I have to do my frame fairly soon.
Man, this is reminding me how much I should add chassis paint to my task list!
He doesn't test Chassis Saver, but he does test POR 15 against other products. Very interesting results. Eastwood has a roll on version of the Encapsulator they brand as "plus" Given their spray results, I'll bet it works well.
Personally I think I will be going for a roll on type and probably trying to do it along with new body mounts at some point. So not a full cab off, but a poor/lazy man's verison. I don't have the ability to pull the cab at my house and these are the kind of side track goals that will make my engine swap take forever, so I'm not sure whether I will do it. Sounds like a good winter project--
If you don't watch Project Farm, this is a perfect chance. The guy is very objective, not sponsored, and has a great methodical no-BS format.
He doesn't test Chassis Saver, but he does test POR 15 against other products. Very interesting results. Eastwood has a roll on version of the Encapsulator they brand as "plus" Given their spray results, I'll bet it works well.
Personally I think I will be going for a roll on type and probably trying to do it along with new body mounts at some point. So not a full cab off, but a poor/lazy man's verison. I don't have the ability to pull the cab at my house and these are the kind of side track goals that will make my engine swap take forever, so I'm not sure whether I will do it. Sounds like a good winter project--
- Thread starter
- #45
I went with Chassis Saver as I was able to apply it over tightly adhered rust, all I needed to do was prep the metal which I used a scrapper and wire wheel, then cleaned it with ZEP degreaser. With POR-15 you have to do all that and still use their metal prep over the rust areas.
Project farm is a great YouTube channel, the guy buys all his own things and is never sponsored. Definitely worth watching if you’re trying to figure out what products to use, he doesn’t have them all but he does have a lot.
- Thread starter
- #46
Cab is back on the frame, shocks reinstalled, brake lines attached , doors back on and the rear wiring is rang again. I ordered some Ford twilight clips and a box of assorted wring clips from Amazon to replace all the broken clips.
yes, the 4wd light circuit is part of the original body wiring and doesn't go through the ecu from what I remember.
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- #48
Patch panels are mostly in. There is some spots I’ll need to add extra weld, I did not take any photos of the welds before grinding as nobody needs to see that. I took the “a grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t” seriously lol.
- Thread starter
- #49
Well, I wanted to go back to the factory colour under the hood, but I refuse to pay the price for all the parts to spray it on and deal with making a make-shift spray booth. To get it in spray paint cants it would’ve been close to $600 all said and done (firewall and front clip).
So it got a rattle can job with clear coat to gray. I’ll be adding some heat resistant material to the firewall once everything is back together to help keep the heat from the exhaust out of the cab. Time to add some killmat to the interior and start reassembling the inside.
So it got a rattle can job with clear coat to gray. I’ll be adding some heat resistant material to the firewall once everything is back together to help keep the heat from the exhaust out of the cab. Time to add some killmat to the interior and start reassembling the inside.
I have simular motivations with my paint choices! Just about everything I paint is engine paint, usually makes me look like a better painter. You are making good progress and looks good!
- Thread starter
- #51
It’s amazing how good engine paint can turn out.
I got the interior reassembled. I’ll finish sound deadening when I order the new carpet. Got almost everything ordered for the 3RZ swap, new fuel tank and fuel pump holder. I’m going to try to save the sender and I have a pump from a 1989 22re I’m going to see if it fits.
The only thing I’m stressing is the wiring. It’s not a strong point of mine but I do have other wiring issues I need to sort out anyways (no reverse lights, and no 4wd light) so I’ll just have to learn (hopefully).
Edit: I do know ORS makes a harness, but for $630 it better have resistors in it as well to make the AC work properly.
I got the interior reassembled. I’ll finish sound deadening when I order the new carpet. Got almost everything ordered for the 3RZ swap, new fuel tank and fuel pump holder. I’m going to try to save the sender and I have a pump from a 1989 22re I’m going to see if it fits.
The only thing I’m stressing is the wiring. It’s not a strong point of mine but I do have other wiring issues I need to sort out anyways (no reverse lights, and no 4wd light) so I’ll just have to learn (hopefully).
Edit: I do know ORS makes a harness, but for $630 it better have resistors in it as well to make the AC work properly.
- Thread starter
- #52
I’m preparation for all the engine work coming up (oil pan, timing chain, balance shaft delete, eft.) I went ahead and “installed” it in the truck. This was using the factory mounts on the 3RZ so it is not finished at all. I will be using swap mounts to get proper geometry, my engine stand is just tied up with another project.
The valve cover was pulled so I could see for any rust, I then drained the oil (only a quart) and found no water (the engine has been outside since 2017 under multiple tarps). I think when I do the oil pan I may remove the main bearing caps and check for scoring in case it was ran low on oil. This engine was hooked to an auto so I’m not too worried about how the cylinder walls look.
The valve cover was pulled so I could see for any rust, I then drained the oil (only a quart) and found no water (the engine has been outside since 2017 under multiple tarps). I think when I do the oil pan I may remove the main bearing caps and check for scoring in case it was ran low on oil. This engine was hooked to an auto so I’m not too worried about how the cylinder walls look.
- Thread starter
- #53
Does anyone have experience with Alldatadiy for older vehicles? Since TIS starts in 1990 I’m worried about the diagrams for a 89 Toyota pickup with an auto tranny not being in there.
- Thread starter
- #55
Timing cover is off and balance shafts removed, this motor did have a small knock if I remember correctly (was not that, never heard it) I’m suspecting it was a balance shaft based off of the excess wear on the drivers side balance shaft.
- Thread starter
- #56
ended up having more time to take the bottom apart today, rod 3 has no bearing left in the cap or rod side. I’m not 100% sure how I want to proceed here now.
- Thread starter
- #57
Engine is apart. The head is trashed, the cam bearings and camshafts themselves have groves in them. The block as well, some verticals grooves that you can feel with your finger. The biggest issue is no local machine shops are accepting engine rebuilds right now. So I’ll have to look into a short block and head or shipping the engine out.
Cylinder #3 rod
Cylinder #1, verticals groves on the side and they do catch a finger nail
Cylinder #2, same groves
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
Cylinder #3 rod
Cylinder #1, verticals groves on the side and they do catch a finger nail
Cylinder #2, same groves
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
Well that's a downer. How many miles were on it? Lived a pretty rough life, however many.
Awe man, that sucks. Hopefully you find another good engine or a good deal to get a reman. Good luck.
