Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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The engine of officially in! I used the coolant pipe from the 22re to get around the alternator, eventually I’ll need a new fan shroud as this one is cracked but I’m holding off to see if I run into heating issues and need to upgrade to a bigger fan as currently I’m using the 22re fan and a new CSF radiator.

A question came up on mine. Using the 22re fan and shroud, does the fan line up inside the shroud, or does the shroud need adjusting?
 
A question came up on mine. Using the 22re fan and shroud, does the fan line up inside the shroud, or does the shroud need adjusting?
I did not have to adjust my shroud, I did have to drill out the bolt hole for the 22re fan clutch. I’ve included some photos, my shroud is in rough shape all around so if you’d like me to grab any measurements that you think may be helpful let me know.

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I did not have to adjust my shroud, I did have to drill out the bolt hole for the 22re fan clutch. I’ve included some photos, my shroud is in rough shape all around so if you’d like me to grab any measurements that you think may be helpful let me know.
Thanks for the offer. This confirms what I have been told. I'm still going to try and find a larger shroud/fan, but at least until then I can get it running and driving.
 
Would a 3.0 fan fit? IDK about the bolt pattern for the fan clutch. I'm using a 3.0 fan on my 3.4 fan clutch so I can give measurements for those parts. IDK about the 3.0 fan clutch to your water pump though. The 3.4 one is definitely larger than the 22RE. No experience with the 3RZ.
 
I’m not sure if a 3.0 fan would work, I tried a quick google search and most are running either the 3rz or the 22re fan combos. Interestingly enough, LCE has a billet fan spacer that says its fits the 2rz/3rz and 3vz, so it may be a direct bolt up and would get a larger fan and shroud.


A question I’ve always wondered, is there a preferred transmission for dual t-cases? I ask as I currently have a W56-B in the truck and had to do a bunch of cutting to make it work but I have a spare W56-C that’s needs a rebuild as it’s stuck in 4th gear. My thoughts are, the W56-C wouldn’t push the rear t-case handles back as much as the W56-B would.

Is this correct or is my thought process backwards?
 
I had a W56 B in my truck originally and had a W56 C in my possession at one time but I never compared them side by side. I can say the difference of a forward shift and top shift is big. I think there are pics and specs on Marlin's site.
 
A question I’ve always wondered, is there a preferred transmission for dual t-cases? I ask as I currently have a W56-B in the truck and had to do a bunch of cutting to make it work but I have a spare W56-C that’s needs a rebuild as it’s stuck in 4th gear. My thoughts are, the W56-C wouldn’t push the rear t-case handles back as much as the W56-B would.

Is this correct or is my thought process backwards?
As I recall the W56-C/D are forward shift on the transfer case. Since you need to convert the transfercase to a top shift, the transmission should not matter where that shifter pops up. The only change would be the location of the crawl box shifter. Forward on a C\D, and rearward on the A\B. This assumes you don't convert the crawl box to top shift.
 
The forward shift is definitely farther forward, I guess my thought where the rear t-case handles would be ina. Similar spot as they currently are if I go back to a W56-C since the rear t-case has to be a top shift. I know I could run my current setup with a RADesigns triple stick setup if it came to it.

Duals are a ways off, just working on figuring out the next stage of this truck after it’s up and running. I already have a MC08 adapter I got back in 2016 sitting on the shelf. Paid $550 back then and now the cost has gone to $800, definitely grateful I bought it when I did.
 
Painting is finally done. Huge shoutout to those who enjoy doing body work, paint prep and painting for a living. Finish up prep Monday, got the bed and a few other areas of bare steel primed that night and put the Monstaliner on today, two coats on the cab as it was already bed lined, and three on the flatbed due to some concerns with the first coat being to thin.

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I didn’t take a lot of photos, but I did get a lot done.

Brakes bled
Clutch bled
Reverse lights wired and working
4wd working again
Air box mounted and MAF modified
Tires aligned and torqued
Pitman arm torqued
Mud flaps installed
License plate light installed
Engine assembly done
Most of the AC done

Now I need to finish the exhaust, get a coupler for the air intake and finish installing the cooling system. I ended up ordering a new fan shroud and lower shroud to replace mine since it was so broken. Next week I should get my lower clutch cover and the AC tensioner pulley so I can finish installing the belts finally.

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I did switch over to the upper 3RZ hose for the lower radiator hose and it works well, I have a bit of rubbing but that’s easily enough fixed with some loom.
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It definitely felt like I wasn’t making as much progress since I’m finally to all the little things, but having a week to get the painting done and whatever else I wanted to do was nice. I did finally fix my horn, it hasn’t worked since I bought this truck in 2015. I did the .22 cal mod and now it works again, someday it’ll get a bigger horn or maybe some air horns for fun.
 
Went to install the flywheel dust cover and ran into a snafu. It appears that there is a difference between the dust cover for a T100 vs what a Tacoma/4Runner bell housing needs.

The part I ordered is for a 1998 3RZ manual and it does not fit correctly, however the photo I stole off of eBay shows a completely different style that seems to fit my bell housing bolt holes. The only problem is that the dust cover for the T100 is discontinued so my plan is to just drill a hole for the second bolt and call it a day. I didn’t remember what bell housing I bought when I ordered this.

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did you maybe get the 2TR bell?
Would a 2TR bell mate to a W56? I thought they only mated to the R150 transmissions
 
Got plenty of time to work on it today. I finished the exhaust, got some random stuff done (radiator in, wire for cruise control light hooked up to the dash, front U-bolt flip installed and all u-bolts cut). I also spent some time figuring out why my headlights only worked on high. Turned out the wire had came unsoldered, quick fix that was free and they work great again.
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Got the exhaust almost finished, missing one gasket then I can cinch everything down. I chose to run the exhaust in front of the crossmember as the OEM cat is too big to fit between the frame and crossmember. It doesn’t hang much lower than the crossmember and I’m happy with it. I’m guessing when I go to duals I’ll have to rework the exhaust system again but that’s a bridge I’ll cross when I need to.
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I did have to order a shorter throttle cable. The one I’ve been using is from an 1989 and is 41” long. I had no adjustment to get to WOT with it hooked up to the cruise control box. The 85-86 22RE cable measures about 38” long, because of this I ordered one from RockAuto. I’ll be curious about the quality of it when it arrives.

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Edited to remove false information.
 
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I did have to order a shorter throttle cable. The one I’ve been using is from an 1989 and is 41” long. I had no adjustment to get to WOT with it hooked up to the cruise control box. The 85-86 22RE cable measures about 38” long but isn’t offered from Toyota anymore, because of this I ordered one from RockAuto. I’ll be curious about the quality of it when it arrives.

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whats the cruise motor from?
doesn't look like either of the 96+ i have
 
I did have to order a shorter throttle cable. The one I’ve been using is from an 1989 and is 41” long. I had no adjustment to get to WOT with it hooked up to the cruise control box.
Interesting. I'm using the longer cable, mostly because it's what I had. I'm not only showing that the shorter cable is still available, I'm showing it's the correct part for the 3RZ in a 1998 4R. Stupid money, but available.

Short cable: 78180-89141
Long cable: 78180-35052
 

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