1983 BJ42 Aqualu Restomod

[vanisle3b42]

I posted this photo above, and have done so again on the diesel tech forum, but will do so again here-

Anyone have a super clear idea of how many major wiring grommets there are through the firewall and specific locations? I think the main loom heads through the grommet above the clutch master. Speedo cable.. through the one above the brake booster possibly..? Is there a third grommet towards the passenger side? Also, has anyone built a Painless/stock loom hybrid harness? Thinking of building my own to run in conjunction with the stock dash and engine harness to make my life and the quality of the loom a little better.

 

[vanisle3b42]

What follows is a very succinct post:

Hey all, been a busy couple months, but we're shooting for a first drive in the next couple weeks here. Spent the last 4 weeks or so combing through the engine side wiring harness, bending/installing brake lines, and figuring out the fuel system. Assembly a truck that I didn't disassemble is very challenging and weird. Tracked down some fittings for the balance tube between H55F and tcase, along with a 1 1/2 x4 hose barb to replace the crappy piece of pipe that bolts to the underside of the fan shroud between the lower rad hose and radiator. Spent what felt like a billion dollars on synthetic lubricant today also.. We're so close I can smell it. Nuked my jumper pack creating 24v to crank it over so looks like I'm gonna need batteries after all. Planning to break in the engine on conventional oil then swap over to synthetic once all the assembly lube is out of the system, but went a little nuts and bought synthetic for trans, tcase and diffs. ARB apparently asks for synthetic in the diffs for the lockers, so I figured I'd listen to them. Couldn't find a throttle pedal bracket so I built one, haha. It works. If I can find the right one I'll go for it, but for now this'll get me rolling.
Here's some pictures.

 

[nfs56]

That looks amazing!

Do you still need an idea for the harness holes through the dash? I have my original tub about to be removed, I just pulled all the wiring this week.

 

[White Stripe]

You have to be careful with transmission oil. If it's too slippery the synchros won't grab. Also, how are you going to keep the floor paint from getting scratched up?

 

[vanisle3b42]

That looks amazing!

Do you still need an idea for the harness holes through the dash? I have my original tub about to be removed, I just pulled all the wiring this week.

I've got it sorted now, thank you! Jim Land posted some awesome labeled photos in the Diesel Tech section for me. I definitely inserted the wrong photo here too. Thought I took a new one of the harness installed!

You have to be careful with transmission oil. If it's too slippery the synchros won't grab. Also, how are you going to keep the floor paint from getting scratched up?

I've just used what the manual suggested for gear oil. Started with conventional, but will swap it to synthetic after 1000km or so to clear debris as its a rebuilt trans. I'm on the hunt for a floor mat and I'm liking the moulded one from Cool Cruisers, so will probably go with that. Planning to install dynamat anywhere that is covered by the floor mat.

 

[LakeNorman_FJ40]

Nice job. We have VERY similar builds with a full Aqualu body, rear tire carrier, hard door repairs, hard top, etc.

Only exception is our colors...and you went old-school and I went restomod.

Did you convert to a liftback too? The Aqualu tailgate is nice and I had them add the floor storage well too.

You are right re: door fitment on a new Aqualu body. After I'd fully installed the hardtop, last step was to fit the doors within the opening so I could adjust for an even gap around the perimeter.

For the floors, I used Rhinoliner professionally applied. Stops much (not all) of the heat transfer (remember aluminum is a very effective heat conductor). Once you apply dynamat or a similar product that stuff is not easily getting removed later and just creates a harder mess to cleanup when the top leaks (and it WILL leak regardless of having all the OEM gaskets).

With the aluminum floor and water leaks you will have the perfect recipie for a FJ40 steam sauna. Always having moisture under that vinyl mat means always driving a steam sauna.

Driving a hardtop 40 is like driving inside a 55 gallon drum regardless of amount of insulation. Keep in mind the 40 is just a glorified tractor...carpeting, vinyl mats, and insulation are more for 60s than 40s.

Good luck with rest of the build.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Nice job. We have VERY similar builds with a full Aqualu body, rear tire carrier, hard door repairs, hard top, etc.

Only exception is our colors...and you went old-school and I went restomod.

Did you convert to a liftback too? The Aqualu tailgate is nice and I had them add the floor storage well too.

You are right re: door fitment on a new Aqualu body. After I'd fully installed the hardtop, last step was to fit the doors within the opening so I could adjust for an even gap around the perimeter.

For the floors, I used Rhinoliner professionally applied. Stops much (not all) of the heat transfer (remember aluminum is a very effective heat conductor). Once you apply dynamat or a similar product that stuff is not easily getting removed later and just creates a harder mess to cleanup when the top leaks (and it WILL leak regardless of having all the OEM gaskets).

With the aluminum floor and water leaks you will have the perfect recipie for a FJ40 steam sauna. Always having moisture under that vinyl mat means always driving a steam sauna.

Driving a hardtop 40 is like driving inside a 55 gallon drum regardless of amount of insulation. Keep in mind the 40 is just a glorified tractor...carpeting, vinyl mats, and insulation are more for 60s than 40s.

Good luck with rest of the build.

Good reminder on the water leak stuff. I think spray-in liner would not likely block out more noise than dynamat, but would certainly not trap pockets of moisture as you're suggesting. Although, I never had a major condensation problem with my previous 40 with a rubber mat and a leaky hardtop, but I keep this truck inside so it gets a good chance to dry out and stay dry most of the time.

I'm still on the fence about the liftback. I may source one out, but I also kinda want to use my ambulance doors. I'll make the call when I start restoring the hardtop I think.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll check out your build.

 

[Varty Yo]

Looking great jesse!!!!

 

[vanisle3b42]

Got the front bumper mounted up and fuel lines plumbed. Spent a bit of time power-probing the wiring harness and other than a few issues with the back half, most of it is in fine shape. Got all the fluids topped up and am combing through the shop manual to ensure I'm not missing anything too major. Engine was stored with pure stanadyne in the fuel system so I'm hopeful it'll flash up ok. Lots more to do! No, I have not fixed the wonky shackles yet.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Got a few little things figured out and a set of batteries in her! I rigged up some jumper cables and got it cranking over pretty nice- well.. nice enough to build a bit of oil pressure. So I'm going to pick up some fuel tomorrow and see if I can get it to make some smoke. No exhaust at all as of yet, but I'm getting too excited to wait until thats done. Here are few more pictures. I was missing the throttle pedal bucket so I built my own in a similar style. Works as normal, but I'll probably swap it out once an original one appears locally.

For interest, you can see how I modified the 83/84 centre dash piece to fit the flat aqualu cowl. It looks alright, I think. I really wanted to keep the lower black half, but it wasn't meant to be. I'm going to combine this with the earlier model lower dash pads and I figure it'll work out alright.

I was initially planning to install a Vintage Air unit in this, but I've since changed my plan. I don't really need AC and the real reason I was into those kits was for the more modern under-dash climate control setup. I'm now leaning towards this product Danhard Inc. Heater 01418 and the corresponding analog control kit. Does anyone else have any experience with Danhard Heaters?

Pictures!

 

[vanisle3b42]

Well, I made an attempt at a first start last night and it didn’t really go as planned... not that I really thought it would, but disappointing regardless.
I prior to connecting batteries I very carefully applied 24v to glow and EDIC circuits with a power probe to confirm continuity and function. Then i hooked up batteries.. this is where things get weird.

Batteries were hooked up for 15 seconds, followed by a flash of light from the passenger (Right) side. Key was off and wiring was unchanged from previous testing. Everything else is working fine.. EDIC, what’s left of the lights, cranking etc. But I have zero action from the glow plugs/glow timer. I went hunting for fusible links, but I fear they have been deleted by the PO. I’ve checked function of both relays and they’re ok. GPs are new.


I’ll be digging into it further today.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Well.. I think I found the problem. My alternator shorted and melted the White and lightblue connector by the glovebox- I have power in the dash but not through the connector. I ran a new chunk of wire and tried to touch the B+ terminal but she's got lots of ground there. Going to send the alternator and regulator out for a rebuild. Hopefully nothing else got ruined.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Yesterday I flashed it up for the first time. Runs amazing.. kicked off right away with no glow plugs hooked up. However... No oil pressure. Not even a little bit. So I started digging.
First thing I found was that the oil pressure relief valve was totally stuck, so I spent a great deal of time freeing it up. Then I used a funnel and a length of hose to try and prime the oil pump through the pressure relief, but for some reason this process wasn't effective. I decided to pull the pan and dig a little deeper, but I didn't find anything conclusive there either. As a last ditch effort, I removed the pickup tube pumped a little bit of engine oil into the inlet of the oil pump. Put it all back together.... And it worked! I ran it with the rocker cover off and watched the sweet nectar emerge from the rockers. Runs like a champ and pumps oil.. Can't ask for anything more. Well... besides a working alternator I suppose.

 

[vanisle3b42]

 

[Varty Yo]

turbo goin on this still? 2 more weeks and i do my turbo install!!!

 

[vanisle3b42]

turbo goin on this still? 2 more weeks and i do my turbo install!!!

Right on! What turbo did you go with?
Yeah, going to turbo still but I've opted to break the engine in without it and spend money/time making the truck insurable and drivable before I build a manifold and stuff.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Hey! Its a first drive video! Second start of the 3B in the truck and third of the new engine. Has great oil pressure (finally) and runs and drives like a brand new truck, but without the feature like.. say... glow plugs.. Super loud with open manifold, but can't stop me front ripping around the neighbourhood over and over.

Since the video, I've put the tuffy console and second seat in it so I can take my girlfriend around the block.

 

[want2wheel]

Great looking vehicle. You might want to look at you shackles. They will not work correctly the way that they are installed.

 

[vanisle3b42]

Great looking vehicle. You might want to look at you shackles. They will not work correctly the way that they are installed.

Haha, yes I know. Everyone mentions that. They’re on the list of things to fix before it gets insured. Thanks!

 

[cruiserkreutz]

Very solid work! Love the color