- Thread starter
- #41
Thank you!Very solid work! Love the color
1983 BJ42 Aqualu Restomod
- Thread starter vanisle3b42
- Start date
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Your usedf to that loud! Hahaha
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- #43
Open manifold in a garage is pretty savage.
Hahaha no my 5" on duramax is throaty lol
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- #45
Well, I ran out of money for a bit there, but I picked up a couple other jobs and busted it for a while to put together enough money to get this truck at least occasionally on the road for the summer time.
Since I bought this thing in boxes I'm continually finding strange missing pieces. For example, until recently I was missing both windshield frame hinges and the wiper linkage... I had the motor and arms.. But nothing else. So I picked up this crusty windshield frame for $200 off a 1975 fj40 (originally from Alaska) for the hinges, glass and linkage. The frame is pretty savage, but the linkage and glass were ok- though not as Ok as the seller described. I blasted the linkage and hinges and got the glass in a new gasket but it cracked spontaneously.... So I'll be buying a new windshield anyways.
Here's pictures.
Since I bought this thing in boxes I'm continually finding strange missing pieces. For example, until recently I was missing both windshield frame hinges and the wiper linkage... I had the motor and arms.. But nothing else. So I picked up this crusty windshield frame for $200 off a 1975 fj40 (originally from Alaska) for the hinges, glass and linkage. The frame is pretty savage, but the linkage and glass were ok- though not as Ok as the seller described. I blasted the linkage and hinges and got the glass in a new gasket but it cracked spontaneously.... So I'll be buying a new windshield anyways.
Here's pictures.
- Thread starter
- #46
Here's a couple pictures of my freshly painted hinges also.
- Thread starter
- #47
Didn't realize my face was in the second photo. Savour that mug
Coming along nicely!!! What rear bumber did you go with there?
I honestly can say i really dislike aqualu fenders haha just bugs me.
Is it running and driving now? No start up vid?
I honestly can say i really dislike aqualu fenders haha just bugs me.
Is it running and driving now? No start up vid?
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks!
Thats a 4 Plus Products dual swing out rear bumper. Home built stainless one on the front.
My fenders are the first gen aqualu fenders- the new ones have the rolled forward lip and look pretty close to stock (check out ICON builds on youtube). I also prefer the new style, but these were painted beige when I bought the truck so safe to assume they were installed before the thing was blown apart 10 or so years ago.
Startup and drive! Did I forget to post this video? Pardon my abuse of the skinny pedal... I built my own bracket etc to fit the tub better and I was pretty excited about it haha.
lol yah i remeber you posting that vid somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #51
Spent the last couple of weekends diagnosing and tracing down strange faults in the factory wiring harness. Initially it was just the EDIC controller that was out to lunch, along with the pre-heat (superglow) timer, however the more time I spent with it the more faults I discovered. Last weekend I opted to focus just on lights, but after about 4 hours of swearing I decided to bite the bullet an order a reasonable pre-fabbed kit. I ended up going with the 18 circuit kit from American Autowire which I will route in a similar fashion to the factory harness. The truck will still be running 24v for all lights (swapped to LED) and the ARB compressor in the under-bed storage box, but the accessory circuit will run to a 1000w 24/12v converter to power the Danhard hotrod heater and defrost unit.
Biggest drag of bypassing the EDIC is that the low oil pressure shut down feature is lost, however I've got a Yanmar buzzer rigged up under the dash to the oil pressure switch... Its pretty brutal loud until the pressure switch clicks over when the engine first starts, but at least I'll know if pressure is lost when I'm cruising. I'm undecided on a stop solenoid vs a kill cable, but for now I don't mind popping the hood (because its not on) and killing the motor by hand.
Doing a crazy push on it next weekend in hopes of getting lights working so I can throw a plate on it! Going to spend my evenings building a cheat sheet from my toyota service book to adapt factory switches to the new harness. Will be pretty great! Definitely starting to feel some excitement.
Here are a few pictures of initial routing of the American Autowire harness and of my fresh alternator (with fancy internal exciter)
Biggest drag of bypassing the EDIC is that the low oil pressure shut down feature is lost, however I've got a Yanmar buzzer rigged up under the dash to the oil pressure switch... Its pretty brutal loud until the pressure switch clicks over when the engine first starts, but at least I'll know if pressure is lost when I'm cruising. I'm undecided on a stop solenoid vs a kill cable, but for now I don't mind popping the hood (because its not on) and killing the motor by hand.
Doing a crazy push on it next weekend in hopes of getting lights working so I can throw a plate on it! Going to spend my evenings building a cheat sheet from my toyota service book to adapt factory switches to the new harness. Will be pretty great! Definitely starting to feel some excitement.
Here are a few pictures of initial routing of the American Autowire harness and of my fresh alternator (with fancy internal exciter)
Any updates?
- Thread starter
- #53
Well, its been a minute, but I ran out of money again. Desperate to get this thing rolling, I sold some stuff to raise the cash to buy the remaining parts. Now i'm on the final push, getting 24 hours in every weekend.. Fiancee wants to drive it to our wedding in May.
Since my last post, the wiring is done and loomed. I opted for 24v H4 headlamps, which was a great call- they work awesome and no more centre tap system, 12-36v LED bulbs in everything else with 12ohm resisters for the flashers. Its using the stock ground switched headlight relay with a push switch in the floor for high beam. My gauge cluster was incorrect (5 digit odo, plus oil pressure and temp gauges were dead) so I've built an all mechanical gauge cluster with Stewart Warner deluxe mechanical gauges. Just trying to get the EDIC motor working properly and have decided that the relay is dead.. Not sure what I'll do about it yet.
I've got a hardtop from a 68 FJ40 that I'll be using on this thing. Going to pull the Aqualu tailgate off and use the ambulance doors instead because I like that look better. Spent last weekend finalizing the looming of the harness and gapping the doors so I could take them back to Victoria with me to assemble during the week. Next weekend, I'll finalize the mounting of the doors and mount the Danhard heater system I have for it. Its a nice little unit and fits nicely under the glovebox- I'll post pictures of that once I get it happening next weekend. This will never be a show truck, but it will certainly be a pretty presentable tank.
Since my last post, the wiring is done and loomed. I opted for 24v H4 headlamps, which was a great call- they work awesome and no more centre tap system, 12-36v LED bulbs in everything else with 12ohm resisters for the flashers. Its using the stock ground switched headlight relay with a push switch in the floor for high beam. My gauge cluster was incorrect (5 digit odo, plus oil pressure and temp gauges were dead) so I've built an all mechanical gauge cluster with Stewart Warner deluxe mechanical gauges. Just trying to get the EDIC motor working properly and have decided that the relay is dead.. Not sure what I'll do about it yet.
I've got a hardtop from a 68 FJ40 that I'll be using on this thing. Going to pull the Aqualu tailgate off and use the ambulance doors instead because I like that look better. Spent last weekend finalizing the looming of the harness and gapping the doors so I could take them back to Victoria with me to assemble during the week. Next weekend, I'll finalize the mounting of the doors and mount the Danhard heater system I have for it. Its a nice little unit and fits nicely under the glovebox- I'll post pictures of that once I get it happening next weekend. This will never be a show truck, but it will certainly be a pretty presentable tank.
That cluster came out super sharp!
fjc-man
SILVER Star
I probably missed it being mentioned, that is a aqualu windshield frame right? Does it accept oem glass and seal?
Hey great to see yah back man!!! I was gonna text you a couple weeks ago to see whats up and how its coming along.
- Thread starter
- #57
Yes, Aqualu frame and it fits stock glass and weatherstrip.
- Thread starter
- #58
Some of today's progress:
Assembled doors installed/gapped. Driver side adjusted fine, but passenger side was out a mile. Turns out the tub and cowl weren't as square as I remembered so had to loosen some fasteners and shim one side out. Worked fine and we've got nice even gaps now.
Cluster wiring/lighting finalized and bolted up for the LAST TIME. The centre dash piece will have to come out for a pewter paint job when I get some of that colour mixed, but otherwise it works great. I ordered the danhard heater with mechanical controls so I installed them in the factory panel which makes me happy. I still need to make a bushing to adapt the factory metric nobs to american thread stuff, but that can come at a later date.
Danhard heater installed. This is a generic thing, not a 40 series part, so it is not a bolt in installation. Its quite a deep unit so naturally does not come close to fitting in the stock location. It does fit nicely under the glovebox, however, and it doesn't even come close to interfering with the passenger's foot space. The downside is that the ducting for the defrost has to run through the glovebox, but it doesn't bother me at all. The heater runs off the 12v converter that is also stashed in the glove box.
The some of the remaining wiring you see hanging down are various ignition and accessory wires that I have yet to use, and also wiring for the ARB compressor hidden in the storage tray in the tub.
Here's a couple pics of my mess.
Assembled doors installed/gapped. Driver side adjusted fine, but passenger side was out a mile. Turns out the tub and cowl weren't as square as I remembered so had to loosen some fasteners and shim one side out. Worked fine and we've got nice even gaps now.
Cluster wiring/lighting finalized and bolted up for the LAST TIME. The centre dash piece will have to come out for a pewter paint job when I get some of that colour mixed, but otherwise it works great. I ordered the danhard heater with mechanical controls so I installed them in the factory panel which makes me happy. I still need to make a bushing to adapt the factory metric nobs to american thread stuff, but that can come at a later date.
Danhard heater installed. This is a generic thing, not a 40 series part, so it is not a bolt in installation. Its quite a deep unit so naturally does not come close to fitting in the stock location. It does fit nicely under the glovebox, however, and it doesn't even come close to interfering with the passenger's foot space. The downside is that the ducting for the defrost has to run through the glovebox, but it doesn't bother me at all. The heater runs off the 12v converter that is also stashed in the glove box.
The some of the remaining wiring you see hanging down are various ignition and accessory wires that I have yet to use, and also wiring for the ARB compressor hidden in the storage tray in the tub.
Here's a couple pics of my mess.
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- #59
Cleaned up and done for the weekend. Pretty happy with the progress- definitely tough to build a car long distance, but the end is in sight. Even though it gets fully covered between work session, dust from the fab work on the chev panel project in the background clings to all the black powdercoated stuff. More pics.
jim land
SILVER Star
Still planning for a turbo latter. ?
