1982 FJ40 original 2F engine #1 & 2 cylinders appear to be not firing.... stumped (1 Viewer)

Wadesters

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Hello, Just finishing up a restoration and now have a running problem. 2 days ago it was running pretty good after sitting for a year during restoration. Drove it about 60 miles up to 70mph. Now it appears #1 & 2 cylinders appear to be not firing. When I pull plug wires off of 1 and 2 engine running does not change. Any other cylinder wire I pull there is a decrease in idle. Engine will sit and idle but runs rough. When I drive it low power, missing, bucks.
It is desmogged

Did a compression test shows good and even.
New wires, cap, rotor, plugs (tried 2 sets); (#1 & 2 click when pull wire off so I feel sure I am getting spark)
Removed a carb from another vehicle, no change (I have proper fuel level in sight glass)
Fuel filter is clear

I know the advance on my distributor is stuck so I am trying to find another large cap distributor.
Thinking of changing fuel pump even though the one on it looks new.

Would appreciate any ideas.
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pb4ugo

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A friend of mine bought a 40 with a similar issue except it was cylders 3 & 4. I found it had a massive vacuum leak where the intake runner and the head meet. So much so that it wasnt getting its air fuel mixture from the carb. It was just sucking in outside air.
 

Pighead

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Re-torque your manifold nuts, spray around the manifold while running with water or just about anything and listen for idle change to rule out vacuum leak as pb4ugo mentioned. Can you measure manifold vacuum? You checked compression after it started running poorly?
What year engine?
 
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Where are your PCV and brake booster lines plugged into the intake manifold? Anywhere near #1 and #2 cylinders? Unhook each line and block the port and see what happens.
 

Wadesters

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Update.... I know my PCV valve is OK I took it out and shook it hear the clicking inside of it. Also took fuel filter off it is clear. Even though fuel pump has been replaced a few years back I am going to replace it with another OEM one.

I also know the wires, plugs, cap, rotor are new. However the distributor itself has some rust inside and is not advancing. I am trying to find a new / used large cap distributor that came on 82 and up.

As I know it is not advancing could this be causing the problem with #1 & 2 cylinders?

Beers all around when problems fixed. Thanks for all the help and advice!!
 
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If the distributed had rust, as you stated above, I would see if the points were actually opening on #1 and 2, distributor cam could be worn. However, I don’t know if the later 40’s had electronic ignition. If they did, I would be looking at the magnetic pick up, like the early GM HEI. It would be the sleeve under the rotor (has little magnets that fire the ignition).
 
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Carefully inspect the inside of your distributor cap for a carbon 'trail' between the contact points of any of the 6 contacts. If there has been arcing and a carbon trail, that will cause a misfire. I had this happen on a running engine of mine that some idiot mechanic power washed (while it was running) and fried the cap.
 
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What is the gap between the reluctor and the sensor? Should be about 10 thousandths on all the reluctor arms. With so much powdered rust inside the dizzy, it could be that the sensor has moved and the reluctor wheel has been rubbing the sensor and flaking off as a powder. I n any case, that needs to be cleaned out and gap verified.
 

Wadesters

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Update.... Distributor changed really did not help. Reached out to a person that previously rebuilt a motor for me. He said make sure it is sealing at #1 & 2 manifold ports. The bolts had worked loose. Re-torqued them and at last problem fixed.

Thanks to all for the help!! Now I can call it complete

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