Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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That looks like a decent hood. It’s going to be so rewarding when you get this one back in shape.
Start with the big items first as fixing them will have an effect on the rest.
Have fun.
Start with the big items first as fixing them will have an effect on the rest.
Have fun.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #846
What is odd. . .is that the chemical paint stripper releases the single stage paint and to an effect, the primer used almost immediately. However, the original paint (notice in the photo above, in this case the hard top sides came from an olive brown cruiser) is almost unaffected by the chemical.
When cleaning and rinsing off both the hood and the hard top sides, the chemical stripper had little to no effect on any original paint. Yet, nearly an immediate corrosive impact on both paint and primer of aftermarket stuff.
Likely a lead-based lacquer or something? All the chemical did was polish it!
When cleaning and rinsing off both the hood and the hard top sides, the chemical stripper had little to no effect on any original paint. Yet, nearly an immediate corrosive impact on both paint and primer of aftermarket stuff.
Likely a lead-based lacquer or something? All the chemical did was polish it!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
That original paint was some good stuff!
Hard to beat a factory paint job.
Unless it was one of the GMs from the 90s, where the paint just comes off in large sections…
Hard to beat a factory paint job.
Unless it was one of the GMs from the 90s, where the paint just comes off in large sections…
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #848
lol, yes @PabloCruise - Most domestic paint from the late 80's into the 90's didn't require a chemical or manual process at all to have it come off. It did so on its' own.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #849
@b.crush-a-lot and @tls3601 if and when time ever permits (I'm in no hurry) would you photograph the tar mats on the driver and passenger floors please?
Imagine having to replicate them, so any measurements and aerial / overhead photos showing the tar in relation to the other objects would be incredibly helpful.
I was able to secure another pack of QPADS. They have blown up in price. I accidentally purchased part 100116 - NOT the same at all. I am excited to get this done. Will be a cool "factory" touch.
Thank you!!
Imagine having to replicate them, so any measurements and aerial / overhead photos showing the tar in relation to the other objects would be incredibly helpful.
I was able to secure another pack of QPADS. They have blown up in price. I accidentally purchased part 100116 - NOT the same at all. I am excited to get this done. Will be a cool "factory" touch.
Thank you!!
I agree. I am all about originality and it was put there for a purpose, mine are still intact. Would be happy to get some pics with dimensions if that helps. Tom
777Gage
SILVER Star
I can only pray that the OEM Olive Brown comes back to haunt my boys if they ever try and paint over it when I'm long gone.
They hate that color with a passion!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #853
A lot going on behind the scenes. Research, parts collection and hunting for documentation. I *think* I have every us market FJ40 piece of literature Toyota ever printed. I know there are tons of others (Haynes for example). Sadly, most of what Toyota printed from a technical view is all wire frame or exploded diagrams, and if they did print anything photograph related, it was only for sales. How upsetting the tar sound deadening on the floors wasn't part of the 1978 sales pitch. "Hold on...this comes equipped with tar pads on the floor? Honey, get the checkbook."
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #854
Started trying to get the hood flat.... You can see how bad the hood actually is.
Started by cleaning and marking the hood (guide coat). The marker was recommended in the above mentioned video to act as a lubricant for the shrinking wheel.
I did one pass with the wheel, dark areas are the valley's, obviously:
I then used a flat piece of 1/4" steel and stuck 120 grit sandpaper on it:
This hood is a mess.
This is where the real fun begins. Im starting at the front and working my way to the back. Mind numbing work, really.
Needless to say it is a bit overwhelming to see the amount of work I have to do to just straighten out the thing. Looks like the invasion of Normandy took place on this hood.
Maybe I'll use it to grill the turkey on. At least the grill marks would be similar to my Weber. Happy Thanksgiving, friends.
Started by cleaning and marking the hood (guide coat). The marker was recommended in the above mentioned video to act as a lubricant for the shrinking wheel.
I did one pass with the wheel, dark areas are the valley's, obviously:
I then used a flat piece of 1/4" steel and stuck 120 grit sandpaper on it:
This hood is a mess.
This is where the real fun begins. Im starting at the front and working my way to the back. Mind numbing work, really.
Needless to say it is a bit overwhelming to see the amount of work I have to do to just straighten out the thing. Looks like the invasion of Normandy took place on this hood.
Maybe I'll use it to grill the turkey on. At least the grill marks would be similar to my Weber. Happy Thanksgiving, friends.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
I like the low cost alternative to dykem! Have fun, that’s a great test of patience.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Holy wow I just went through this entire thread... your patience and sticktoitness is incredible! Most mere mortals would've just called it a day with the setbacks you faced. Amazing work, excited to watch your continued progress. Definitely an inspiration. 
You might want to try some shrinking from the bottom there.
i think i can clarify this nagging question Mr. Dallas ....
things could be worse ...?
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HA - where Bondo Babies come from...
