Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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- Thread starter
- #1,222
@topnault I've left a couple of messages through your chat service. I'm assuming you've been busy wrapping up SEMA, etc.. so I'll be patient.
Regarding exhaust, I'm thinking about giving this a try (has anyone else?) https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index...t_info&cPath=2_4851_3270_3290&products_id=441
I have had mixed experiences when ordering from Cruiser Parts and their reputation on the sellers forum isn't very convincing. However, I was thinking of fabbing up a mid-pipe on my own (I have flanges) and then connecting to this muffler.
Another option is something along these lines: Walker® 22636 - Heavy Duty Steel Round Aluminized Exhaust Muffler (3" Offset ID, 3" Offset OD, 21" Length) - https://www.carid.com/walker/heavy-duty-steel-round-aluminized-exhaust-muffler-mpn-22636.html
Regarding exhaust, I'm thinking about giving this a try (has anyone else?) https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index...t_info&cPath=2_4851_3270_3290&products_id=441
I have had mixed experiences when ordering from Cruiser Parts and their reputation on the sellers forum isn't very convincing. However, I was thinking of fabbing up a mid-pipe on my own (I have flanges) and then connecting to this muffler.
Another option is something along these lines: Walker® 22636 - Heavy Duty Steel Round Aluminized Exhaust Muffler (3" Offset ID, 3" Offset OD, 21" Length) - https://www.carid.com/walker/heavy-duty-steel-round-aluminized-exhaust-muffler-mpn-22636.html
RevISK
SILVER Star
I have the carid (2nd one) in my notes folder.
For about 1/2$, better reputation and a more comforting photo on the site, I’d say it’s the choice.
- Thread starter
- #1,224
Yes - I'm leaning towards the carid "Walker" heavy duty version. My downpipe is 2.5" and that muffler is a 3"in/out. It doesn't look like they sell a 2 or 2.5" version of the heavy duty round. I can work around that, but would be nice to find a 2 or 2.5".
Goldbug
SILVER Star
Any updates @dmaddox ? I'll be on Long Island in June if you allow tours....
Hi @dmaddox what did you use to finish the exhaust manifold and how has it held up? There are so many mixed reviews online for everything I've come across.
- Thread starter
- #1,227
Hello @greenEFSI - I used Eastwood Hi-Temp coating (non aerosol), and it has held up very well. I have had the engine to temp several times now and the heat helps the paint cure (as part of the application process/instructions). I am always skeptical of rattle cans, but this eastwood product seems to be doing quite nicely. Its also great it comes in a quart can, so if needed I can always touch an area up.
I've been waiting for warmer weather to finish the cruiser, but I am very close. I need to finish the hood/hardtop and the exhaust and I'm done. I am 100% open to anyone coming by to check things out, happy to chat @Goldbug
I've been waiting for warmer weather to finish the cruiser, but I am very close. I need to finish the hood/hardtop and the exhaust and I'm done. I am 100% open to anyone coming by to check things out, happy to chat @Goldbug
Thank you! Ordering now 
Hey @dmaddox ! I was happy to see your thread pop up in my notifications!
Question for you - do you have some posts detailing the vacuum lines for your carb? Sorry for being lazy and not crawling all 60+ pages!
I am hunting a question here: Vacuum Line at Carb Question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/vacuum-line-at-carb-question.1331361/
oh goodie.........
everyone's 1st generation 2F 1 on 1 OEM-Oracle has returned at last ....
welcome back sir .
.
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- Thread starter
- #1,232
Really curious what people are using for exhaust systems. I'd like to do this right, but my options are limited.
While I'd like to utilize a local exhaust shop, all shops will "install a 2.5" in/out muffler that will fit". It could be tube, oval, or whatever is on hand.
Cruiserparts.net has one listed, but I've ordered parts from them and received something completely different, having waited weeks to get it. Second, I have noticed some on eBay (Colombia), example. Ridiculously expensive.
Handy with welding, I'm tempted to order a 2.5" kit (Amazon or the like) and fab up my own system...but it will take quite a bit of hunting to find hangers, and a muffler.
Soliciting thoughts on how to attack this, with the desire it is "correct" for a restoration. Otherwise, I'd just have a local shop do it with whatever parts they have and roll. Thanks!
While I'd like to utilize a local exhaust shop, all shops will "install a 2.5" in/out muffler that will fit". It could be tube, oval, or whatever is on hand.
Cruiserparts.net has one listed, but I've ordered parts from them and received something completely different, having waited weeks to get it. Second, I have noticed some on eBay (Colombia), example. Ridiculously expensive.
Handy with welding, I'm tempted to order a 2.5" kit (Amazon or the like) and fab up my own system...but it will take quite a bit of hunting to find hangers, and a muffler.
Soliciting thoughts on how to attack this, with the desire it is "correct" for a restoration. Otherwise, I'd just have a local shop do it with whatever parts they have and roll. Thanks!
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Mark @Green Bean - you just did a new system (which I will replicate on my 1980 in the future). Care to share your purchase and experience?
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Here you go:
I had a fabricator install our exhaust. Materials ordered from Summit:
Vibrant Performance Straight Round Tubing 2645
Exhaust Tubing, Straight, Stainless Steel, 2.000 in. Diameter, 5 ft. Length, Each $79.99 x1
Vibrant Performance Ultra-Quiet Resonators 1140
Exhaust Resonator, 304 Stainless Steel, Polished, 2.25 in. Inlet/Outlet, 13.75 in. Length, Each $127.99 x1
Vibrant Performance Mandrel-Bent U-J Tubing 2605
Exhaust Tubing, Mandrel Bend, 2.00 in. Diameter, 45/180 Degrees, Stainless Steel, 4.0 in. Bend Radius, Each $74.99 x1
Silverline Xlerator Exhaust Tips XAC200
Exhaust Tip, Single, Round, Weld-on, Steel, Chrome, 2.00 in. Inlet, 2.25 in. Outlet, 9.00 in. Length, Each $5.99 x1
MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 11234
Muffler, 2.00 in. Inlet/2.00 in. Outlet, Stainless Steel, Natural, Each $116.00 x1
Stainless Works Universal Exhaust Hangers UH2.5W
Exhaust Hanger, Weld-On, Stainless Steel, 5.000 in. Long, Fits 2.500 in. Pipe, Each $19.95 x2
Summit Racing Universal Exhaust Hangers SUM-630552
Exhaust Hanger, Rubber, Stainless Steel, Each $7.99 x2
I hope this helps. Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions.
Regards,
I had a fabricator install our exhaust. Materials ordered from Summit:
Vibrant Performance Straight Round Tubing 2645
Exhaust Tubing, Straight, Stainless Steel, 2.000 in. Diameter, 5 ft. Length, Each $79.99 x1
Vibrant Performance Ultra-Quiet Resonators 1140
Exhaust Resonator, 304 Stainless Steel, Polished, 2.25 in. Inlet/Outlet, 13.75 in. Length, Each $127.99 x1
Vibrant Performance Mandrel-Bent U-J Tubing 2605
Exhaust Tubing, Mandrel Bend, 2.00 in. Diameter, 45/180 Degrees, Stainless Steel, 4.0 in. Bend Radius, Each $74.99 x1
Silverline Xlerator Exhaust Tips XAC200
Exhaust Tip, Single, Round, Weld-on, Steel, Chrome, 2.00 in. Inlet, 2.25 in. Outlet, 9.00 in. Length, Each $5.99 x1
MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 11234
Muffler, 2.00 in. Inlet/2.00 in. Outlet, Stainless Steel, Natural, Each $116.00 x1
Stainless Works Universal Exhaust Hangers UH2.5W
Exhaust Hanger, Weld-On, Stainless Steel, 5.000 in. Long, Fits 2.500 in. Pipe, Each $19.95 x2
Summit Racing Universal Exhaust Hangers SUM-630552
Exhaust Hanger, Rubber, Stainless Steel, Each $7.99 x2
I hope this helps. Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any questions.
Regards,
- Thread starter
- #1,235
Thank you for the responses! @Green Bean - a very tidy and off-road friendly setup! Also, thank you for the shopping list, will need to snag a few of those items!
What I am doing may be impossible, we'll see. The oem routing and "look" of the 1978 exhaust system goes below the skid plate, over the axle and then makes a 90 degree turn to a giant (12-13" round can) and then out the passenger side aft of the wheel well. If I can find a muffler that looks oem and doesn't cost 700 bucks, I can likely pull this off!
What I am doing may be impossible, we'll see. The oem routing and "look" of the 1978 exhaust system goes below the skid plate, over the axle and then makes a 90 degree turn to a giant (12-13" round can) and then out the passenger side aft of the wheel well. If I can find a muffler that looks oem and doesn't cost 700 bucks, I can likely pull this off!
@dmaddox - I did! Thanks.
I grew this thread to be a good resource: Vacuum Line at Carb Question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/vacuum-line-at-carb-question.1331361/
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Dallas, we are working on a system: Builds - Rub A Dub Dub, Pablo's Got A New Tub!!! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rub-a-dub-dub-pablos-got-a-new-tub.80054/page-24#post-15483830
As @Green Bean will tell you, I don't have any for sale yet...
- Thread starter
- #1,238
Finishing straightening out the original hood, fixing cracks and prepping for epoxy primer:
Cracks on both sides:
Drilled pilot holes to stop cracks and weld in:
Also, not sure why, but the cost of paint has become insane, 250 a quart. I needed 3 quarts to finish the cruiser. $800 for base coat and 3M headliner spray glue. This photo is from my previous purchase, I took the can in so they could match.
Cracks on both sides:
Drilled pilot holes to stop cracks and weld in:
Also, not sure why, but the cost of paint has become insane, 250 a quart. I needed 3 quarts to finish the cruiser. $800 for base coat and 3M headliner spray glue. This photo is from my previous purchase, I took the can in so they could match.
- Thread starter
- #1,239
After painting the rest of the panels, it was time to align the front end and mount the hard top sides. Aligning the front end is a pain after having a cruiser all apart. Ugh! Really, it is a two person job and very time consuming getting it right. I can see how many would give up with "close enough", but I was trying to get it as best as I could.
With some help from some tow-hook ratchet straps and trial and error, I was able to get it aligned.
Once aligned, hooks installed:
With some help from some tow-hook ratchet straps and trial and error, I was able to get it aligned.
Once aligned, hooks installed:
- Thread starter
- #1,240
The wiper motor was out of phase/sync and would "stop" or zero right in the middle of the window. For reference, part number of oem wiper motor for 1978:
If your wiper are out of sync, inspect/clean the motor and then install (but leave the linkage and arm off. Turn the ignition to "on" and cycle and stop the motor. It will then be zero'd. Reattach the arm on to the wiper motor, and then attach the amrature!
If your wiper are out of sync, inspect/clean the motor and then install (but leave the linkage and arm off. Turn the ignition to "on" and cycle and stop the motor. It will then be zero'd. Reattach the arm on to the wiper motor, and then attach the amrature!