1978 LPB Teardown and Rebuild

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I have a similar problem, in that my crossmember mounting holes were too low also. The solution I came up with is basically to drill the holes that I wanted. I have since decided that I'll just weld the brackets to the frame. I don't see the brackets getting in the way of anything, but I might change my mind and use the top bolt holes and weld it to the frame. The bolts might be useful to transfer some load to the outside of the frame rail, and the welds are obviously really strong.

I love your project. It's coming along very nicely.

Dan
 
Shamelessly stolen from Dan's build thread.

sound deadening.webp

just at a glance the 79+ floor seems to have more of a rise than my 78. But you say you encountered the same issue with the crossmember. How low does your t-case hang below the frame Dan?
sound deadening.webp
 
Love the build!! One of these days I would love to build a 45...and love to see the progress you have made. That Al tank is a work of art and LOVE the rear bumper!
 
Kevin (and Dan),

I posted this on your other thread Kevin, but then I thought I should put it here.

The 1981-1984 tranmission hump is about 1/2" taller than the 79-80 transmission hump (this is also when the transmission cradle was introduced, and when the 5 speed first appeared). This is why the removable panel on the 81-84 tunnel has that raised section in it. Thus, you would have about 1/2" less wiggle room with the 78, I would guess.

If you look at an H41 and an H55 side-by-side, you will see that the top loader is slightly higher. I've always understood this to be due to the external linkage which engages the overdrive 5th.

I agree with 45Kevin, just do what you have to to make it fit. Once you make skids for it, the fact that it is 1/2" lower than a factory BJ42 will be immaterial.

The other option would be to add about 1/2" of height to the tansmission tunnel. Dan, I'm sure I can get an 81-84 cover for you down here. I think there is also a slight raise in the tub itself where the cover bolts to the firewall, but the cover would make it much more factory-looking even if you had to trim the firewall slightly.

Cheers,

Josh​
 
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Thanks again Josh (re: other thread)

I measured and compared all day and finally had to act. I cut an inch off of the left end of the cross member center section (cradle). This meant the captured nuts were lost so I welded new nuts at both ends.
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This had the effect of straightening the drive train in the frame somewhat though it is still 1/2" too close to center in the rear. It also allowed me to jack the tranny up until the cradle brackets landed properly on the frame. This will let me use the existing bolt holes in the cradle ends.
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The tower ends up close enough considering I will be cutting a relief in it anyway
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The following posts will show more shots of the final position
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P1010013_24.webp
 
P1010015_21.webp

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P1010002_44.webp

The L-brackets are tack welded in place and will stay that way until the mock up of the entire engine bay, front clip and interior is complete. Then after tear down and cab removal I will drill and bolt, with captured nuts, all of the mounts.
:cheers:
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P1010002_44.webp
 
Kevin:

Here's how low the crossmember is in our 40.
tranny 2.webp

Now, keep in mind that I pushed everything forward about 2" to make the shift levers all work out with the original holes, and to give enough room for the T-case parking brake. Basically I mounted the transmission as high as I could, leaving just a little room between the top cover of the H55f (which is a 60/70 series top cover) for movement. Here's a picture of that. The wire for the backup light will easily clear between the top cover and the tub.
tranny 1.webp

I plan on either fabricating a skid plate, or seeing if the IPOR skid plate will clear this whole thing, but either way the T-case will get a little protection.

Dan
tranny 1.webp
tranny 2.webp
 
Dan,

That is exactly how I plan to do mine in my FJ40 if I do put a D4-D in, although I would do it to get the extra drive shaft length. When I did the Vortec in my troopy, I swaped my 40 series top loader for a 60 series one, and moved everything forward like you did and it has worked really well. Do you see any issues with oil pan/differential clearance with the motor 2" forward? I think it also makes a lot more sense than putting it where Toyota did and making a 12" fan shroud. I wonder why they did that?

I still have the skid plate in the factory location, and it covers everything just as it did before. My gear box is not quite as low as yours, but I really don't think that matters; that's what skid plates are for:D.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Thanks Dan,

It looks to me that I may have mine just a touch higher than yours so I'll be fine where I'm at (and so will you).

Josh - I will be moving my rad back 2.5-3" for an intercooler and condenser in front of it so the shroud will be more "normal". What model was your skid plate from again? It would be cool to use my original 2F/H41 plate though if I build my own it'll be stronger. I'll have to hold it up and see how close it is. At the very least it can serve as a template.:meh:

Kevin
 
Kevin, do you know if putting the intercooler up front and requiring a lot longer intake track will effect when the boost will come in.I know the longer the tubing the more turbo lag..I have no experience with a 3b,I am going off of my porsche turbo experience.Just wondering if you have talked to the owner of the above set up.If this works ok I will do the same and install up front where it should be.I think an audi a4 intercooler might work!Great thread by the way..
 
I'm not a turbo expert (yet:D) but when I drove the truck above this spring I did not notice any overt turbo lag. Push foot down/ listen for whine/ grab another gear. I did feel the extra oomf in the seat of the pants fore sure. One thing I did notice was after a 5 min drive the inlet side was fairly warm and the outlet was quite cold - so I guess it works :hillbilly:.

Keep in mind I have a limited frame of reference.
 
Great,I guess an intercooler goes on the list of mods!I wanted to ask if you have a website or company in canada where I can source parts.I need a water pump and that is even a challenge to find.Thanks
 
It's all those reasons that I mounted it a couple inches forward of the "correct" spot.
--Fan shroud is a normal length (heck--I'm keeping the FJ-40 shroud)
--Shift towers in the right spots (no body work needed there)
--More room behind engine, before you get to the firewall
--T-case parking brake fits without modifying the crossmember

I think the oil pan clears the axle just fine, but frankly I don't know of a good way to check it. I've flexed it as much as I can with a bare frame/motor, and so far I'm good, and it looks like the bump stop will hit before the axle contacts the oil pan. I very well may add a crossmember (compression type) right under the oil pan between the motor mounts, since the ones I made to work with the 70 series motor brackets have a bit of a twisting moment on the frame....

But.... my 45 will have pretty much these exact same problems. It's got an H55f for it, and that will be in the "correct" position in my '76 body. Kevin's project here looks eerily similar to that. ;)

As to the turbo lag: I kind of like a little lag for wheeling. The diesel has enough torque to crawl at idle, but if I were to mash the pedal down, then it will kind of lug and slowly add power instead of just bursting with quick power and spinning the tires. I like the turbo lag on my 2LT-E (stock intake, no intercooler), and the BJ-74 I've driven had maybe a little too quick turbo for my tastes. I kind of like a large diameter turbo that doesn't really do much at low RPM, but gives the real push at higher RPM (like on the highway).

Dan
 
So I went and saw my pusher today...
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Top to bottom:
OEM Diesel fenders (cuz they are different than gas)
Mini truck steering box
42 style washer reservoir and bracket
Aftermarket clutch slave
OEM 42 series brake master
OEM 13BT upper thermostat housing (for the turbo coolant lines)
Freshly rebuilt 12V starter - the original from my drive train
60 series top loader - cuz I need the 5th gear arm that the mine maintenance dept. torched off (I'm returning the rest)
OEM vac pump oil lines - these I borrowed to have copies made because one is discontinued and both together are over $220
Banjo bolts for above
And last but not least - my rusty shifter arm
P1010001_45.webp
 
Thanks Dan,

It looks to me that I may have mine just a touch higher than yours so I'll be fine where I'm at (and so will you).

Josh - I will be moving my rad back 2.5-3" for an intercooler and condenser in front of it so the shroud will be more "normal". What model was your skid plate from again? It would be cool to use my original 2F/H41 plate though if I build my own it'll be stronger. I'll have to hold it up and see how close it is. At the very least it can serve as a template.:meh:

Kevin

Kevin,

I just used my factory skid plate. With my metal fabrication skills, something I've made will never be confused with something you've made.:bang:

I like the idea of moving the rad back to put an intercooler in front. How much was just the top loader for the H55? I'm guessing that they no longer offer the 40 series one?

Josh
 
Josh,

I was given the 60 top loader in order to rob the 5th gear actuation rod out of it. It was part of my original purchase of the drive train. On my 5 speed the mine personnel took a torch and cut the end off of the bar to select 5th gear so that it could not be used. Perhaps similar to yours on Patches. After I remove the rod I will be giving him the rest back cuz it came from a good 5 spd.

I am fairly sure you cannot buy the 40 toploader any longer. Even my source has none. He does have a half dozen 60 series though. He was putting one into a BJ42 today and I saw two more under his bench, two more on the floor and one in a 60 outside. FYI the 42 had 844,000 Km on the clock!


Kevin
 
Josh,

I was given the 60 top loader in order to rob the 5th gear actuation rod out of it. It was part of my original purchase of the drive train. On my 5 speed the mine personnel took a torch and cut the end off of the bar to select 5th gear so that it could not be used. Perhaps similar to yours on Patches. After I remove the rod I will be giving him the rest back cuz it came from a good 5 spd.

I am fairly sure you cannot buy the 40 toploader any longer. Even my source has none. He does have a half dozen 60 series though. He was putting one into a BJ42 today and I saw two more under his bench, two more on the floor and one in a 60 outside. FYI the 42 had 844,000 Km on the clock!


Kevin

Good thing you are re-building it:D

Yes, Patches' 5th looked brand new when I rebuilt the gear box, as it had never been used. They simply took the actuator lever off, though...luckily no-one got too close to it with a torch.

Now I have a brand new H55 in there from CDan, and the 5th in that had never been used either:grinpimp:

Josh
 

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