1978 FJ40.....Worth It? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 29, 2005
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I found a 1978 FJ40 for sale. Supposedly, everything on it is original except for the rear disc brakes. The man who is selling it said it only had 81k miles on it. He said that he was told the mileage when he got it was actual. 4.10's, 4x4, 4sp, 4-wheel disc brakes...He said the body at the rear quarter panels and the rocker panels was kinda rusty (hints the diamond plating). He also said the frame had rust, but nothing structurally bad. He is asking $3200 but said the price is negotiable. I was wondering if this would be a wise investment (I am 17 and would probably be paying for everything on it). I haven't seen the 40 yet, but judging from the picture and the fact he said the paint hasn't been touched up at all, how bad could the rust in the rockers and quarter panels actually be? Just need some input... Also, how does insurance run on these things for a kid my age? Some of you guys have to have kids around my age with 40's (or are kids around my age with 40's). Actually, any input you guys have would be great.

Thanks,
Thomas

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Judging from the fact that the diamond plate covers the whole side of the vehicle, the front fender on the drivers side is new or different, and the rust that is obvious in the drivers door, (even in the s h i t t y picture), I would lay big money that there is far more rust in this then what he is letting on, even in the frame.


1500.00us max.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
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Since most vehicles show some light rusting underneath unless they're thoroughly undercoated I'd view the fact that the owner feels it to be necessary to even mention frame rust as suspicious. He's covering his ass for the day that the truck folds up and collapses onto the road. It happens, you complain, and he says "Hey, I TOLD you that there was rust on the frame".

How bad can the rust be, you ask? Oh, well, it can have eaten away most all of the underlying support steel before it emerges through the paint.

Try poking the truck all over with your sword, or at least with your dagger.


What's all that crap about having kids your age? You screwed up and came to a geriatric cruiser board. Everyone has great-Grandkids your age, welp.
 
My '78 spent it's entire life in sunny California. When I got it it had what looked like two little tiny paint bubbles on the rear quarters. Upon further prodding with a screwdriver I found the rust was through the body and about eight inches by 2.5 inches long. From what I see in your picture you will probably need a new tub.
 
BlackLight said:
Some of you guys have to have kids around my age with 40's (or are kids around my age with 40's). Actually, any input you guys have would be great.


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Actually, I'm a kid in my 40's with a 40 and an 80 (and a 540, but that's a different forum).


Anyway, I would recomend skipping it. This car will cost you 3k to buy, and another 5-10k to fix. Plus time. Since you mentioned that you would be paying for everything, I'm going to assume that you aren't some sort of trust fund brat, and you are going to need to earn a living. I would recomend waiting a few years until you are established in your carrer and you have some discresionary income. There will still be fj-40's around to buy, and you will be in a much better position to buy one.

all just my opinions though, from lessons learned the hard way
 
Hi All:

Whoa "Honk!" He was just asking for feedback on insurance costs for teenagers with Land Cruisers! Maybe a better question for "Father of Daughter of Romer."

Thomas, on first glance I'd say "nice '40" but I'm a sucker for the 40/45 Series so . . . . .

The alum. diamond plate on the body sides makes me pause; usually that is there to cover-up body tub rust issues. If it has a solid drive train I'd try to talk 'em down to under $2K.

Best of luck with your FJ40 hunt!

Regards,

Alan
Seattle
 
It cracks me up all the time that hardly anything here is worth 2k unless it's a members rig. I probably wouldn't pay 3k without looking at it further but the question is if it's worth 3k to you. Will you have fun with it. Will you learn how to work on a cruiser and vehicles in general. will you learn how to weld. For the most part anything this old requires attention. Do you and will you work on it is the question. Cruisers in your neck of the woods might not be as prevelant as in other areas. Just make sure the frame is solid.

I have never thought of a vehicle as an investment, ever.
 
honk said:
Since most vehicles show some light rusting underneath unless they're thoroughly undercoated I'd view the fact that the owner feels it to be necessary to even mention frame rust as suspicious.

When I called, the add said that there was rust on the body, he wasn't going to lie. Then I asked him about the frame. He said that there was obviously some but nothing structurally damaging. I failed to mention that I was the one to spark the conversation about frame rust. Sorry.

PabloCruise said:
Where is it located Thomas? Is it from there originally? How bad is vehicle rust there?

It's located in Lawsonville, NC (I'm about 30 miles away from there. We see snow maybe twice a year and they rarely salt the roads). Before here, it was in Boone, NC (the mountains). They do salt their roads quite a bit.
 
I got my first 40 (rusty Michigan cruiser) when I was 18 and it had lots of rust, I paid $2500 for it. It ran great and I had more fun in that thing than any vehicle I've owned since. Mine had steel diamond plate similar to the one pictured, but that didn't deter me. If the frame and floors aren't rotten, and it runs great, then you're probably fine paying $3000. You're going to be hard pressed to find a rust free cruiser East of the Mississippi for anywhere near that price. Plus, rusty cruisers are more fun wheeling because you're less concerned about banging them up against rocks, trees, etc. Get it and have fun! Welcome Noob. :flipoff2:
 
MDH33 said:
Plus, rusty cruisers are more fun wheeling because you're less concerned about banging them up against rocks, trees, etc. Get it and have fun! Welcome Noob. :flipoff2:
Got my first 40 this year and paid WAY too much for it. It was worth it in sentimental value though. The major thing is to make sure it is MECHANICALLY sound (good frame, good engine, trans, t-case, diffs, etc.) So far I am (once paid off) in about $7.5-8k but like i said there is more than $3000 in sentimental value...plus there is the safety factor of an all steel vehicle...worth more than anyone would ever pay for mine. Try to see how low you can go with it if there is ANY rust cause that becomes a BIG problem when you want to paint it eventually...oh and MDH33 is right...a rusted body means nothing...that makes it more desireable for weeling(not worried about more scratches)

Welcome...:cheers:
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