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Also you can see it’s a bit off here…can’t figure out why. The bottom lip of the floor lines up perfectly with the bottom of the wheel well side….if that makes sense. So if you raise or lower the wheel well, then it doesn’t match the floor. Thought maybe it sagged in the middle when I cut out the rockers and main beam but the side doors line up pretty good. Oh well.
Thinking about it a bit….maybe this is what you get with a tub full of aftermarket sheet metal. Going to try not to worry about it. It’s going to be a big improvement over the rust bucket!
Yes! Thanks.Agreed!! The key is to make sure all the doors line up. The tolerances on these things were pretty loose. Even from the factory they didn’t always line up. I would put the hinges and doors on and see how everything fits, You can make some adjustments before you do all your final welds and paint. I spend an entire day tweeking and testing everything before I moved on to paint
Builds - 1977 FJ40 - USA Spec Restoration - Father & Son Project - AKA "Belle"
I only had one rear door hinge bracket and I need two of them so I fabricated a second one out of an old fender and a used hood from a Honda Accord. I am pretty proud of my fab skills :) MM Very nice indeed. Keep up the great work.forum.ih8mud.com
Looking good! Yep lead paint was more durable and longer lasting than almost anything that is “modern”, progress? I sometimes wonder…….
That looks done quite well....but if you want to put the bead on any seam sealer or caulking for that matter....put two lines of painter tape on either side of the joint. Then apply caulk / seam sealer...and "do not let it dry" but rather quickly pull up the side tape. It puts a nice clean edge on those seals.The black lines are the seam sealer I used. Nasty product. Like using black tar. I really wanted the nice little beads that come from the factory but that didn't happen. Such a mess.
Yeah I taped off every seam. I think where I screwed up is once I put the bead down then I smoothed it with my finger and then immediately pulled off the tape but it left a sharp raised line so then I smoothed it down again with my finger. It turned out OK but not what I envisioned. The sealer set up really fast.That looks done quite well....but if you want to put the bead on any seam sealer or caulking for that matter....put two lines of painter tape on either side of the joint. Then apply caulk / seam sealer...and "do not let it dry" but rather quickly pull up the side tape. It puts a nice clean edge on those seals.
Thanks! Yeah agreed. Also once everything is put back together it won’t be so “bright“! it’s maybe better than a 10 foot paint job but not closer than a 5 foot! I pushed it out of the garage today into some better light. Found a few spots that bummed me out but trying not to be too critical. This being one of them…..doh! Haha. (The one hinge I couldn’t get removed.)BTW.... I think the freeborn red color match really pops. Yes it looks brighter than the deeper weathered original I've traditionally seen but it reminds me why I love the toyota colors from that era. I think you have a winning match there that is really eye catching.
Its perhaps a wishful perception ... but to me it appears as if colors are making a comeback in newer models. I dig Toyota's "voodoo blue" as well as the neonish green....which I'm not sure its name.
These would look great with a red interior. I added 1/2" thick cushion foam to bring the padding back to life:Definitely going to have to get some new foam and seat covers for the front seats. I can’t bear to put those old cloth ones back in now!