Builds 1977 FJ40 Rebuild – Focus on Custom Stainless Tub

[knuckle47]

That rear bumper extension is a n excellent thought…and your execution is nothing short of extraordinary. This would make a great accessory for production

 

[psmbfuer]

That rear bumper extension is a n excellent thought…and your execution is nothing short of extraordinary. This would make a great accessory for production

Thanks very much knuckle47. I appreciate your ongoing involvement and kind words.

 

[psmbfuer]

Since in the last pic of the bumper extension, you likely noticed that we started to install the rear tire carrier, let's address that next.

As you can see below, we don't have the strongest press in the world, but it was likely the cheapest - we picked this up a a yard sale for $25! Some day I hope to install air over hydraulic, but time will tell - to date, we have been pretty successful with it, so it is not on the top of my to-do list just yet. The pins were quite tight and needed a little heat to help free them. I also don't have any pics, but we used a reamer to clean the rust from the inside.

The top hinge has two Corrosion-Resistant Flanged Sleeve Bearings on the top portion of the hinge, with the bottom portion of the top hinge being press fit. We also used Oil-Embedded Thrust Bearings to bear the downward weight and ease rotational friction. These sleeve bearings are rated for marine and mining use, and are bronze, aluminum, and iron, "providing high strength and excellent corrosion resistance".

Both upper and lower pins are 316 stainless.

The lower hinge again uses the Corrosion-Resistant Flanged Sleeve Bearing on the top, with a larger thrust washer.

As you might recall from earlier posts, we kept the factory mounting plate that sits inside the upper quarter panel where the tire swing mounts, and the new stainless rear sill extension is used as the mounting plate for the bottom hinge, so it is very strong, has no play, and now rotates beautifully. We'll also eventually remove the tire swing and ambulance doors, finish cleaning up the weld immediately above the hinge, prep the tire carrier, repaint everything and install it with washers.

 

[psmbfuer]

You might have noticed that the tire and wheel is installed on the tire carrier above - anyone have a guess as to what wheels these are?

 

[psmbfuer]

As a reminder from post #1, the wheels that came on our 40 were a set of Tacoma wheels, with a set of spacers all the way around. And no offense to @rckhound, but these weren't my favorites. And to be fair, he did offer a set of stock wheels with, if memory serves, 33 x 10.5 BFGs (also shown in post #1), but I declined.

I knew in advance that I wanted to move away from 15" wheels, and to 235/85R16s, but I also wanted to keep it looking as stock as practical, and wanted a wheel that I could install the stock 40 hubcaps. With this, I considered CityRacer 16s, but they are still 5.5 deep and the 235/85R16 Wildpeak A/T3W have a minimum wheel width of 6" - yes, I know this has been done, and many run the 33x10.5s on a 15x5.5" wheels, but... We might have gone with them, but they were out of stock multiple times, and we wound up purchasing a set of Wheel Vintiques 12-Series Smoothies, which are 16" x 7" and I hoped that I could get lucky and find a way to mount the stock hubcaps.

It turned out that mounting the stock hubcaps to these would have been very difficult, and may simply not have worked. At this point, we figured, oh well, we will run them as they are, but we will at least powder coat them the original 40 wheel color and then enjoy them. I took them up to our powder coater and also took a set of stock wheels for color comparison. We already knew from other threads here in Mud that we were likely going with RAL 7036, and as you can see from the color cards below, it did seem like the best match, and that is what we went with. Our powder coater is excellent and uses industrial powders that have UV inhibitors, and even uses a primer, then the pigment coat - the wheels came out excellent.

[ATTACH type="full" alt="Powder coated 16" steelies."]3815843[/ATTACH]
It also turned out that we pulled the trigger on the wheels and tires a little early, while the 40 work just kept going, and the new set of wheels and tires just sat here. Then, near the end of 2022, our 65 Chevy Carryall (Suburban in almost other years), finally came out of the paint shop, and it needed wheels and tires. So we took up the set that was sitting for the 40, tried them on, and they were perfect.

[ATTACH type="full" alt="Fully restored 1965 Chevy Carryall (Suburban) with 235/85R16 Wildpeaks on 16" Steelie wheels."]3815844[/ATTACH]
And now we need another set of wheels and tires for the 40.

 

[knuckle47]

Are you saying that a set of Chevy wheels for your CarryAll would fit the 40? I have been internally debating the 15” vs 16” wheel size for the last year. Some very convincing 16” wheel and tire combinations in the MUD posts with photos. I am JUST starting to get back into the garage in the next 2 weeks or so after a hiatus since August. Although that may change into mid February. The list is long. I would love to get it all done by April though. Your “Carryall” strikes a nerve…in a good way.

 

[psmbfuer]

Are you saying that a set of Chevy wheels for your CarryAll would fit the 40? I have been internally debating the 15” vs 16” wheel size for the last year. Some very convincing 16” wheel and tire combinations in the MUD posts with photos. I am JUST starting to get back into the garage in the next 2 weeks or so after a hiatus since August. Although that may change into mid February. The list is long. I would love to get it all done by April though. Your “Carryall” strikes a nerve…in a good way.

I'm not certain if we can make a claim that broad, but this set of "Wheel Vintiques 12 Series Wheel Size: 16" x 7" that I purposefully purchased for the FJ40, with some amount of good fortune, fit the Carryall. And I'm not certain that all wheels that fit the Carryall would fit the 40.

Other than the obvious 6" x 5.5 bolt pattern, and ~4.18"/106mm minimum bore size, clearing the caliper and tie rod ends can be tricky for 40s with front disc, but with the 4.0" backspacing, these 16" wheels cleared both the caliper and tie rod ends, and also fit on the Carryall. Also, moving from 15 to 16 tends to provide additional clearance.

In the wheel link that I posted above, the pic that Jegs uses shows 10 lug holes, but these came with 6 lug holes. I just checked Summit and Amazon, and for some reason the photos being used are all 10 lug - I believe they all might be trying to convey that the wheel also comes in a 5, 6, and 8 lug configuration, although under a slightly different part numbers?

The wheel that I received when ordering part number 12-670604 has the appropriate 6 lug holes and they take the standard FJ40 60 degree conical/tapered nuts.

Here are some of the key specs:

Back Spacing	4 in (101.6 mm)
Bolt Circle 6 x 5.5	6 x 5.5 in (139.7 mm)
Center Bore Diameter	4.25 in (107.95 mm) (slightly larger than the FJ40 minimum size of 106.1mm)
Vendor Part Number	12-670604
Wheel Bolt Pattern	6 x 5 1/2 in (139.7 mm)
Wheel Diameter	16 in (406.4 mm)
Wheel Width	7 in (177.8 mm)

In the end, I went a different direction than the above for the 40, but more on that in the next post, hopefully this evening.

 

[knuckle47]

Thanks for that information my friend. The wheels on my 45 have attached clips for the hub caps. They do fit but did require a little reshaping to increase the grab on the caps. I like the profile of the 16” wheels and a nice sized sidewall This is another avenue for me to head down in finalizing the list of stuff for my 40….after this, it’s just drive drive drive.

Here’s a thought… I hate driving. For 36 years my commute has been over 65 miles 1 way… going south from where I live and returning north at the end of the day would have been a breeze. Unfortunately I go north with the masses and return home…..with the masses

 

[psmbfuer]

Sure thing knuckle47 and hopefully some of the above was useful. I find the 235/85R16s to be wonderful on a 40. While subjective, I like the look, the profile, and otherwise, the healthy sidewall, handling, and they don't push me to re-gear, while providing a little overdrive. And they reduce my fuel consumption, right? Another benefit of the 16s is the expanded tire selection, should you want to change things up, down the road.

That said, now that we have recommissioned this set of wheels and tires, we have decided that regardless of the next approach, we need factory hubcaps! And we'll almost certainly stay with the 235s. Again, a personal issue, but my wife really likes the hubcap look, as do I - kind of a cornerstone of the original 40 look.

Regarding commutes, they can be taxing, especially when spending the miles/time that you were. When I was young, I commuted daily from Millersville PA to Devon PA (college to work), similar to your commute at 55 miles, ~1.4 hrs each direction, and even back then, it took its toll.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Is the extension a damage multiplier if it crushes upwards?

 

[psmbfuer]

Is the extension a damage multiplier if it crushes upwards?

Another good question ceylonfj40, and with a harsh enough impact, it just might. That said, we did consider various impacts when we were designing the extension - here are some our design and build process thoughts that we hope work will reduce damage, rather than multiple it:

• The extension's lower surface is very close to the same height from the ground as the lowest point of the original quarter, so any upward impact from a rock or exiting a large step, for example, would apply the same relative impact to this area, (and to you point) possibly not the same amount of damage, or more important to me, effort / time to repair.
• The extension will handle progressively more force as you move from the front to the rear of the extension where it attaches to the original rear bumper and where leverage is the least.
• I anticipate impacts tending toward the rear of the extension where there is far more strength than the original quarter.
• The extension has a full-length belly, which also bolts to the front-to-rear frame rail, adding additional strength to inward and upward impacts, even toward the front of the extension.
• If you recall the extension design, we used 12 gauge for the outer and upper portions, but 16 gauge on the belly. This was done to serve as a mini crush zone for upward and inward impacts, with the hopes that the 16 gauge belly would absorb impact / bend, while the 12 gauge portions holds structural integrity, helping to again protect the quarter (of course within limits).
• Considering the above, the extension should handle a good deal more impact force than the quarter, so I believe it will help to protect the quarter on light to medium impacts.

All of that said, all bets are off for a hard enough hit, which could bend the extension and the quarter, and fixing both would likely take more time than just replacing the lower portion of the quarter.

And one final thought: even through we do plan to return to Moab in this 40, and take it off road, we save the hard trails for the bikes, and generally stick to intermediate trails with the 40, where we can enjoy the beautiful scenery and being out doors, without worrying too much about rolling, damaging, or breaking the 40. With this, for us at least, I'm hopeful that the extension will help to protect much more than multiple - time will tell.

 

[psmbfuer]

So after installing the 40 wheels / tires set on the Carryall, we starting thinking and reading again about wheel choices, several were in the running, and remember, we have fully committed to factory hubcaps this go-around. So here is the list of wheels that we considered:

1. We purchased an FJCruiser steel rim and this would have worked quite well with the 40 hubcaps. I liked them a lot, but the holes around the outer edge weren't the favorites for my wife and family. That aside, I have kept this one wheel and believe it will come into service on a future project. These are 17 x 7 wheels and would have meant moving away from the 235/85R16, likely to a 255/85R16 or possibly to 35X11.5R17, although not certain we want to go this large.
2. We looked at and very much liked the FJCO Expedition Wheels, but these were a above our budget and they are 16 x 6, which if fine, but I'd prefer a 16 x 7 or wider to give us more options in the future.
3. The Dean Cross Country wheels were another excellent option and these even come with hubcap that are similar to factory, but when the front center hubcap is off for the hub, the remaining hubcap ring looks a little odd. These can be purchased at Nengun and likely other places, and I believe they have an offset that would work. These are 16 x 6.5.
4. And then there are the fifteen52 aluminum Analog HD Peak Grey wheels that are 16 x 7.5 with a 4.25" backspace. These have a 40 look to them, with the slots around the outside, but I couldn't find any information as to whether the FJ40 hubcaps would fit and fifteen52 did not know either. At least one person here on Mud have used them on their 40s, but never with hubcaps, at least not that I could find at the time of this research. With this, I again reached out to fifteen52 and asked for the diameter of each of the rings on the face of the wheel and they sent back the below image and dimensions that follows. The dimensions are below the pic, and for any of you that have closely measure your hubcaps, it appears that this will work, but it will be very tight, at least from the measurements.

I also want to thanks fifteen52 - they were great to work with and they sent me the wheel schematic quickly.

Wheel face diameters, from outside in:

• 11" / 280.5mm
• 9" / 228mm
• 8" / 203.5mm

So, in the end, we purchased a set of 5 fifteen52s and this is how the stock hubcap fit - beautifully - no grinding or mods to the hubcap or wheel, just need to tap two or three holes and we should be good to go.

Here is is the holes tapped.

Now with the stainless phillips counter-sunk flat head screw.

The screws basically just disappear unless you are close and looking for them.

And finally installed on the tire carrier.

 

[White Stripe]

That extension will take some damage. It will probably bend if you jack up the truck by it. The crossmember is weakened significantly by the cut out toyota put in it for the tail light. Ive bent mine hitting rocks.

 

[psmbfuer]

That extension will take some damage. It will probably bend if you jack up the truck by it. The crossmember is weakened significantly by the cut out toyota put in it for the tail light. Ive bent mine hitting rocks.

I agree with both points White Stripe. There is a slight chance that I weld a plate into the tail light opening, remove the current additional non-factory rear bumper / tow hitch, and build a full rear bumper with opposing swing outs, but that is still relatively low on my list of things to do. I also have another 78 style tube tire carrier, and from a inconclusive, quick look, I believe with some cutting and re-welding that I can flip it to serve as a carrier for the passenger side. The current non-factory rear bumper is a mild dilemma for me, it seems quite strong, adds decent protection to the rear, and I like how it supports and where it positions the hitch, but I'm so so on the way it looks - a little too unoriginal.

 

[knuckle47]

The FJ40 does not seem to lend itself to round tubular bumpers. I’d agree with you….so-so. OPMachine has come up with some really nice ideas on his 45 rear bumper and 40 front bumper. Your inspiration may come from something like that.

 

[psmbfuer]

The FJ40 does not seem to lend itself to round tubular bumpers. I’d agree with you….so-so. OPMachine has come up with some really nice ideas on his 45 rear bumper and 40 front bumper. Your inspiration may come from something like that.

Good input and I'll check them out. Regarding the front bumper, I like the very simple bumper that I have now, but if I do anything with it, am will likely go back to stock, reinforce it and mount my 8274.

 

[firemanj92]

So after installing the 40 wheels / tires set on the Carryall, we starting thinking and reading again about wheel choices, several were in the running, and remember, we have fully committed to factory hubcaps this go-around. So here is the list of wheels that we considered:

1. We purchased an FJCruiser steel rim and this would have worked quite well with the 40 hubcaps. I liked them a lot, but the holes around the outer edge weren't the favorites for my wife and family. That aside, I have kept this one wheel and believe it will come into service on a future project. These are 17 x 7 wheels and would have meant moving away from the 235/85R16, likely to a 255/85R16 or possibly to 35X11.5R17, although not certain we want to go this large.
2. We looked at and very much liked the FJCO Expedition Wheels, but these were a above our budget and they are 16 x 6, which if fine, but I'd prefer a 16 x 7 or wider to give us more options in the future.
3. The Dean Cross Country wheels were another excellent option and these even come with hubcap that are similar to factory, but when the front center hubcap is off for the hub, the remaining hubcap ring looks a little odd. These can be purchased at Nengun and likely other places, and I believe they have an offset that would work. These are 16 x 6.5.
4. And then there are the fifteen52 aluminum Analog HD Peak Grey wheels that are 16 x 7.5 with a 4.25" backspace. These have a 40 look to them, with the slots around the outside, but I couldn't find any information as to whether the FJ40 hubcaps would fit and fifteen52 did not know either. At least one person here on Mud have used them on their 40s, but never with hubcaps, at least not that I could find at the time of this research. With this, I again reached out to fifteen52 and asked for the diameter of each of the rings on the face of the wheel and they sent back the below image and dimensions that follows. The dimensions are below the pic, and for any of you that have closely measure your hubcaps, it appears that this will work, but it will be very tight, at least from the measurements.

View attachment 3816777
I also want to thanks fifteen52 - they were great to work with and they sent me the wheel schematic quickly.

Wheel face diameters, from outside in:

• 11" / 280.5mm
• 9" / 228mm
• 8" / 203.5mm

So, in the end, we purchased a set of 5 fifteen52s and this is how the stock hubcap fit - beautifully - no grinding or mods to the hubcap or wheel, just need to tap two or three holes and we should be good to go.
View attachment 3816572 Here is is the holes tapped. View attachment 3816582
Now with the stainless phillips counter-sunk flat head screw.
View attachment 3816580
The screws basically just disappear unless you are close and looking for them.
View attachment 3816579
And finally installed on the tire carrier.
View attachment 3816578

There is a vendor that sells the tabs to hold the hubcaps on-I forget who but another build thread made their own tabs. On my FJCO wheels the tabs are just secured in place with allen heads hidden under the caps.

 

[psmbfuer]

There is a vendor that sells the tabs to hold the hubcaps on-I forget who but another build thread made their own tabs. On my FJCO wheels the tabs are just secured in place with allen heads hidden under the caps.

Thanks firemanj92. If we would have gone with any of the rims that came with tabs already installed, I'm sure they would have been great. We also looked closely at the FJCO tabs to see if we could come up with something similar, but in the end, there is a lot less drilling and tapping with our approach. Not saying our solution is the best, but it has worked out very well so far. I also have history going against the tab approach - possibly I'm showing my age again - but I seemed to always be loosing hubcaps when I was a growing up, and we either adjusted the tabs too tight, too loose, or they were weak from rust and would snap off...

We've only drilled and tapped three of our five wheels, and I'll think about this further, but I suspect we will drill and tap the last two so we have a matching set.

Edit: @firemanj92, I have continued thinking about this, see post #202.

 

[knuckle47]

This is my plan for my ‘75 FJ40. It has what looks like an H BEAM and a winch mounted on it with tow bar tabs. I always preferred the stock bumper and was going to replace it with one of the stock bumpers. On the other hand, my current bumper is “substantial “ and could probably pull the 40 off the ground with its attached winch. All of my other 40’s had always eventually had a bend from a love tap on something. That’s my hesitation

The @OPMACHINE bumper looks to be head and shoulders above but doesn’t seem to be in production

 

[knuckle47]

Look at how nice this looks

40 SERIES FRONT BUMPER

Just unwrapped one from @OPMACHINE Here it is next to an OEM painted bumper and another bumper I had powder coated in Vegas Gold. Excuse the dirt on the other; for comparison, I cleaned off the right side. The color between the two powder coated bumpers is nearly if not identical. The OP...

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