Builds 1975 FJ45-Running Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Not posted for a while but made a bit of progress, finished my deck off and took it to galv on Monday should be done in a week.

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Still got to make the sides, done one but still two to go. Went and picked up some Macrocarpa for the wooden deck. Will look good when its all back together, hopefully next week.

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Had a cyclone hit nz two weeks ago and one of or big gum trees blew over, got my saw out and chopped it off the road.

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Picked up an 80 series e locker while I was down at graduation, stripped the head and found a 70 series long side long spline axle so the head will be going in the front of my 45. Will be quite good with a LSD in the back and e locker in the front.

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Solved my handbrake problem, found a split t case handbrake from oz, should be all the parts I need. Ordered new shoes and seals, will have a handbrake now but will have to open up my t case again (3rd time).

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Just waiting for the boxes to arrive from oz, will make my t case manual shift while I am at it and add the 40 vacuum shiftier to my parts shelf.
 
Went and picked my deck up from the galv place today, happy with the result. Nice and shiny at the moment but will dull quickly.

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Started to cut the boards to length, will take a while to get right. will make a small jig for drilling holes for the bolts.

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Still got to make the sides but wont be for a while yet, will wire up the rear lights and bolt the deck to the frame before the boards get screwed down. Need to sort the battery tie down while I am at it.

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Lights fit well and look right, need wiring up and got led bulbs for the indicators and reversing lights, need to get another set of brake light bulbs as the old ones migrated to another truck while not getting used.......

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Handbrake parts turned up along with new shoes, a spring kit and cable. Cab will come off again to take the t case apart again. Bit of a pain but might take the truck in before that for a quote on getting the paint done. Getting close now
 
Stihl 461, 22 inch bar, graduation present me to me

YES!! Stihl forever! Just bought a Stihl MS461. Spendy, but I now have a saw that will last the rest of my life. Got the 32" bar (for large soft wood trees), but will be using the 25" bar from my old Stihl most of the time. Could have used that 32" bar last winter though. My old 041AV died and I couldn't find any rebuild parts, so it is now a parts saw.

Interesting wood you got for the deck. Spent most of my life working in cabinet shops and around residential construction. I guess I have sawdust in my veins. Many years ago a place I worked at had an Australian wood that they used for hot tub staves. It had more red to it than mahogany, very dense and close grain, and it was a must to pre-drill holes for screws AND nails. From what I could find out it was liked for fence posts because it was so hard and held up to moisture real good. I guess when it was green nails could be driven in by hand, but dry they would just bend nails and break screws.

Don
 
Took a while to sort the boards but all done now.

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Just one thin one in the middle.

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Started to clean up my t case parts. Got a new sprinf kit for tye handbrake along with shoes and rear output seal.

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Body will be coming off again which will make taking the t case apart easier. Anybody know the driveshaft length difference between a normal flandge and using the drum?
 
Just caught up with your project. Great work! Looked like a lot of fun...even if a lot of hard work!

I am also in Hawke's Bay and looking to pick up my first 40 series Cruiser.

Keep up the good work and hopefully i will see it trekking round the bay in the not too distant future
 
Been making up a towbar for the 45, wanted adjustable/removable as well as to keep the original spare tyre carrier so this is what I came up with.

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Lots of thick steel, I am not worried about any of the bits braking but 8 am still consented with the strength of the rear crossmember.

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Added a piece of 6x80mm flat bar to the underside of the crossmember. But still want to tie is in more, will look at adding more bracing and I am even tempted to tie it into the flatdeck if possible as that would spread the load/rotational force further.

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Still need to sort a pin out and will tap the box reciever for a bolt to reduce the possible rattle/movement when towing.

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those rear cross members aren't the best for towing off you'll get away with it but they tend to start twisting my old fj45 had a towbar mounted much the same as that and although it had some diagonal braces tied back to the chassis rails it still twisted up towing heavy trailers, when I did the towbar on my fj75 I used a piece of box section below the cross member and tied the ends of it back to the chassis rails and also tied it up to the cross member where yours is mounted, I tow my 40 around the north Island on a car trailer and nothing bends or twists with it mounted like that
 
Front panels got assembled last week to check fitment issues with the 20mm body lift. Sorted it all out and everything lined up.

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Cut the inside on the guards for the 60 series power steering box and different shock towers. The 33s stick out quite a bit more, this combined with the rust/homes in my guards ment I have decided to order fiberglass ones that are 50mm wider than stock.

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Got all the panels on and the truck running as I needed to pick up some furniture.......winch went back on for looks. Drove about 70km with only few minor issues, the main being a bit of an oil leak from one of the engine side covers, covering the pushrods. Easy fix.

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Cab is back off for repair and paint, as well as putting on the drum handbrake which should get done today.

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Needed somewhere to put the tub so having the deck 90% Done really helped.

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Decided last week that I am going to have a go at painting the truck myself. Something I want to learn and will be a bit less costly than getting someone else to do it. Lots of prep work to do as well as body repairs, got guards and ordered a fiberglass back panel too which gets rid of half of my rust issues. Ordered a new steel drivers floor panel from cruiser corps which will be good. Will probably get the tub sandblasted to get rid of all the old built up s***.
 
beautiful stuff. hopefully the paint job comes out nice on the first go, it can quickly become frustrating.

just gearing up fro my 60 series power steering conversion, how did you do your steering damper?
 
beautiful stuff. hopefully the paint job comes out nice on the first go, it can quickly become frustrating.

just gearing up fro my 60 series power steering conversion, how did you do your steering damper?

70 series tie rod/drag link with a 70 series return to center steering damper. Cut the original chassis mount off and bolted one on cut off the 60 series chassis, just centered the damper so when turning the hubs hit the stops before the end of the damper.
 
How are you going to keep the rear tires from slamming into the bed? Looks like if you put a little weight in the back or hit a bump they will make contact.

Hits the bump stops before the deck, there's quite a lot of room under there. Deck is 1m off the ground, don't want it any higher.
 

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