Builds 1975 FJ45-Running Rebuild

Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
More on the transfer case today, taken a few days off work to get some stuff done. had to take the gearbox off the engine to tap the side of the transfer case for the manual 4x4 conversion.

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M15x1.5 thread, very funny size and expensive to do one hole. But it's done now.

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Most of the handbrake bits are on, just need a clip to hold the cable in, then tighten the big nuts and fill with oil again.

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Think I am going to have to get my dr8veshaft shortened again, will fit but only 5mm of up travel before it bottoms out. Really needs 25mm taking off the driveshaft spline and will be sweet.

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Blasting the body is booked for Monday, so will be stripping everything off the body over the next two days.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
looking good man! your welding is awesome. where have your batteries ended up?
Thanks, lots of welding practice when I built the deck. Batteries ended up under the deck just behind the cab, I made a mount to the chassis out of angle that takes them both. Still need to make up something to hold them down, currently cable ties.......
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Had a set of later doors that I was planning to use on my truck. Started stripping them for blasting and found someone no one wants to find.....

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Bog, about 5-6mm thick from the last repair job. Both of the doors are the same, from the handle line to the bottom.

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Might have to have a rethink, my original passenger door is mint, just issue with my origiginal drivers being the same with lots of bog on the outside to get it straight.....
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Stripping the body, taking a while as some of the wiring is a bit funny.

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Think I will be welding up some of the dash holes, quite a few there from old switches from P.O.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Finished stripping all of my steel body parts down, every bolt.

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Dropped all the bits off at the sand blasters, should be back by Friday.

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Modified the 4x4 lever off the 4 speed all my handbrake parts came from. Bit of messing around but it all works now.

Will be changing the front u bolts tomorrow and may put a cv in the long side.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Tub is back from the sandblasters, no more rust but quite a few holes. I rolled primer on the underside tonight but will be spraying the rest of over the weekend.

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Got a driver's floorpan on the way from the US, but ordered the other side because of the number of small pinholes.

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Can see my old drivers floor patch, will be cutting it all out properly this time.

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Will make it all flush, probably hide the weld where the floor support is.

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The guy did not want to blast the the big flat areas of the bonnet and the roof encase they buckled. Will use a stripper wheel to finish the job.

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Main job now is to get etch primer on everything, then onto bodywork which I tho k will take me a while.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Set up my "paint booth", looks funny but works. Only shooting etch primer before bodywork.

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Just about finished the tub, only under the dash. Came out quite well runs in two places as I knocked the adjustment in my gun and it was spraying a spot.

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Windscreen and a few small bits finished, underside of the bonnet done. Need to flip it in the morning and do the top.

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Plus take the rest of the paint off the roof, shoot that and finish the rest of my little bits.

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Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Messages
975
Location
New Zealand
Fantastic progress mate, despite the cost you wont regret replacing the floorpan in that tub, have you moved into that new house yet it must be close to finished?
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Fantastic progress mate, despite the cost you wont regret replacing the floorpan in that tub, have you moved into that new house yet it must be close to finished?
Thanks

Yea, will take some time with my tig, but I would rather do it now than habe to do it again later.

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House is progressing, finish date is mid October. Wanting to finish my 45 by then, will be a lot easier to move with it in one piece and the deck will be handy moving all my big s***.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Bonnet is done, gave it three as it's likely to take more abuse than under the dash or the inside of the roof.

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Think I am spraying a bit thick as it's taking a while to dry properly but it's not the warmest weekend. Not going to mess with my gun settings as I am happy with the primer finish.

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Tunnel is the last big bit along the with the topside of the roof, just waiting for the underside to dry. Tunnel will need quite i bit of repair, more rust holes and some of my previous hack work when I did the engine swap.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Been on bodywork for a bit, started on the roof which is mostly done, the bog just needs another final sand, re prime and paint. Started on doing a few bits of steel with my tig and it wasn't going nicely, so decided as I was going both floorpans it was worth getting a mig.

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Got a good discount though work but still spent a bit much, although after trying it out today was defiantly worth it.

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Did some practice on some 1.2mm sheet steel and it's so much better than my lift tig setup.

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Still waiting for my floorpans to turn up, so started on filling old drill holes from PO's and the vent below the windscreen. Had it blocked off for a while so decided to weld over it, will put the original grill over the top so still looks right.

Lots more to do but making progress
 
Joined
Jun 20, 2005
Messages
656
Location
nw montana
 
 
 
Had a set of later doors that I was planning to use on my truck. Started stripping them for blasting and found someone no one wants to find.....

View attachment 1484009

Bog, about 5-6mm thick from the last repair job. Both of the doors are the same, from the handle line to the bottom.

View attachment 1484008

Might have to have a rethink, my original passenger door is mint, just issue with my origiginal drivers being the same with lots of bog on the outside to get it straight.....
Flat metal toughest.
But if you can't find better door,
That section can be improved.
It's probably stretched, domed to the inside.
Shrinking can bring it back flat but takes skilled hand and usually small torch.

Visit YouTube or take it to the oldest body man you can find.
 
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Flat metal toughest.
But if you can't find better door,
That section can be improved.
It's probably stretched, domed to the inside.
Shrinking can bring it back flat but takes skilled hand and usually small torch.

Visit YouTube or take it to the oldest body man you can find.
Thanks for the advice but decided they are not worth fixing. Found some other doors and these are all steel. Two small rust spots but don't need much work.

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Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
284
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Started on my floorpan replacement, not turned up yet but has quite a bit of work to do forward of the pans to get a solid base. Welded two supports across the tub to stop things moving while I cut and weld. Only going to do one side at a time.

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Drilled out the spot welds on the tub mount, came off rather easily. Not as bad underneath as I though it would be.

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Chopped bits out, was conservative with the floor pan part as I am unsure where the new one will end.

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Had to rebuild the bottom of the A-pillar and patch the outside panel as there was a hole in that.

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Replaced the flat piece infront of the pan, hammered a flange into it for the floorpan to sit in.

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