Builds 1974 Reassembly (2 Viewers)

[Efjayforty]

I have been making some progress (and buying a lot of parts) but I thought I would provide the answer to my question about the 13mm or 14mm bolts. After Aug of 72 the bolts were 14mm and before they were 13mm.

Here is the truck as I bought it. No top, no doors, no interior, non toyota engine, and no transmission. However, no rot on the tub or frame, good hood, good bezel, good windshield frame and a front wheel disc conversion from a mini truck. I will update with some progress over the weekend.

 

[Efjayforty]

The three speed sitting in the tub was just part of the deal. It originally had a 4 speed.

 

[rossl]

ttstepp920, thanks. I sure could make some sets or I could detail how I made the buck here. It was not difficult. I had to buy 100 rivets of each size so I have 90+ rivets of each size that I would be happy to part with. To get the factory look, you would have to modify rivet sets as well. If you had just one job to do, I could let you borrow the sets and the buck stuff. I have thought about selling enough rivets to do a job and and lending out the tools with a deposit sort of like autozone does.

Great video and pictures, this helps a lot since I am going to try the same thing over the holidays with my frame. I think I will try to copy your bucking bolt pattern. How well did the rivet sizes fit?

 

[Efjayforty]

The rivets should be loose in the hole prior to smashing them down as they need to expand in the hole and you have to have enough rivet sticking out of the hole prior to smashing it down to leave a good head on the rivet. There were a few rivets that I had to remove because they didn't look factory or the size was not correct. I think the sizes that I used were about as good as one could reasonably acquire. rivetsonline.com Good luck!

 

[Efjayforty]

Here is how it sits today. So far:

1. Mounted correct 1.5F engine. It is a few months newer than the body but it was a good find. Engine has 80K miles but has not been run in a long time. It has new gaskets, oil pan and seals. I have been squirting lightweight oil down the cylinders and rotating it from time to time. I have also primed the oil system. Engine has a 78 distributor and coil because I had them. I may keep them in as an upgrade.
2. Installed a gear reduction starter just because I already had it for my 62 and it and it was clean. I will probably put the correct starter on once I rebuild it.
3. Acquired a 74 radiator, shroud and support with a 78 fan clutch and fan. I don't have the correct spacer or fan for a 74 but when I locate them, I will put them on with the correct shroud.
4. Installed a 78 transmission and transfer case. They both have new gaskets and seals. I also had the parking brake shoes rebuilt locally and installed them. I hope to get the correct 74 transmission and transfer case but I had these so I mounted them up. Resurfaced clutch and new disc installed.
5. New Toyota shocks and leaf spring bushings along with the correct shackles and hardware.

A few more things to do before I try and fire it up.

 

[Efjayforty]

Work has been slow but a few things have been worked out. Found four of the original pads to go under the battery tray and oem bolts. There is also a new oem battery tray and hold down.

 

[Efjayforty]

Anyone know what the original battery hold down looks like? The one in the battery is new from toyota and the one on the right is toyota as well.

 

[JohnnyC]

My original battery hold down was like the one on the right ... can’t recall if it was the correct one for my year or not... but I had that one

Do you know if your rims are original or not?

I to have a 74’ ... 74’ model was first year with welded rims ... 74-75 were the same ... slight change in contour for the 76’ model ... still welded

 

[Efjayforty]

My original battery hold down was like the one on the right ... can’t recall if it was the correct one for my year or not... but I had that one

Do you know if your rims are original or not?

I to have a 74’ ... 74’ model was first year with welded rims ... 74-75 were the same ... slight change in contour for the 76’ model ... still welded

Thanks for the reply about the hold down.

I do not have the rims that came were original to mine. I do have a set from a 75.

Here is a pic of an rim on an October 74 model that is in the same town as I am. His truck is very original and only had 2 owners before him and I have been using it as a reference to putting mine together. His are riveted and bluish inside.

 

[Efjayforty]

Here are the disc brake rims that were on a 75. They do not have any stampings. Do they have the correct contour for the 74-75 years? I blasted and painted them black then plan on painting the outside the gray as that is what I understand how they originally were painted.

 

[JohnnyC]

Yes 72/73-7/80 gray on outside only

The rims have a date stamp on them

The rims on the other do not seem like the correct ones ... have the same contour as older style ... has wrong lug nuts even ... blue just would not have been

Early-60’ would be body color... but... that doesn’t look like a usual color anyway

 

[Efjayforty]

I am sure you are correct about the 74 rims with the bluish color inside. The truck is very original so I just assumed that everything on it would be correct for the production date.

I found the date code on my wheels. Four are dated 1/75 and one is dated 10/73. The stampings are very faint and not as deep as the later stampings. All are disc brake wheels.

The paint on the 75 wheels was all black when I got them, no gray. I assume they must have been repainted. Correct?

Yes 72/73-7/80 gray on outside only

The rims have a date stamp on them

The rims on the other do not seem like the correct ones ... have the same contour as older style ... has wrong lug nuts even ... blue just would not have been

Early-60’ would be body color... but... that doesn’t look like a usual color anyway

 

[Efjayforty]

Making some slow but steady progress.

I have rebuilt the carb and adjusted the idle and ignition timing. I installed a new exhaust setup from the manifold back. Pipes are from SOR, the muffler is OEM toyota and the clamps are a combination of OEM and SOR. The front pipe I ordered from SOR is actually a Toyota pipe but it does not allow me to use my factory skid plate which is disappointing but it does fit nicely.

 

[Efjayforty]

I have run into a little issue that I need some help on. Many parts were missing from this truck and I have sourced parts from all over the country (and Japan) in hopes of finding what are correct for 74 parts, However, since I did not take it apart, I am not sure how to reassemble. I am trying to assemble as it was when it rolled off the line with original 74 era parts and fasteners.

Which brings me to the brake line that feeds the rear brakes, I have what I believe be the correct 74 chassis steel brake line, a new toyota rear brake hose and the correct chassis elbow but I can’t make the connection. What do I have wrong?

 

[middlecalf]

Don’t how much difference there are in the rear brake hardlines but here’s mine from my ‘63 45 that @Rainman made for me. Maybe he can chime in on yours. That bend in yours looks “excessive.”

Where did you get your exhaust tailpipe? And recently? Thanks.

 

[Efjayforty]

Don’t how much difference there are in the rear brake hardlines but here’s mine from my ‘63 45 that @Rainman made for me. Maybe he can chime in on yours. That bend in yours looks “excessive.”

Where did you get your exhaust tailpipe? And recently? Thanks.

@middlecalf

That is helpful. I guess that it just needs to be straightened a little. I am pretty sure that I have the correct hardware and that it is mounted in the correct holes.

I purchased the pipes from SOR in October. The price for the front pipe is double now what I paid for it.

 

[middlecalf]

Unless someone has a better suggestion it looks like straightening should help. My tubes from Rainman are soft enough that bending is easy.

Thanks for info on exhaust. I’m looking at options for a tailpipe for my 45 SWB which are no longer available. I have the same (similar) downpipe to muffler as you do, Toyota stuff from SOR. At your convenience could you give me a rough measurement of the tailpipe’s length from the muffler to the 90-deg bend? Thanks. Paul

 

[Rainman]

This looks like the perfect example of a potential change in a line right on the middle of a time frame that shouldn't change. I've had that same problem with the same line before. Without having a pattern from every month of every year, it takes a long time to figure out every issue like this.

I do agree, it looks like you might be able to straighten it out some to reach. It won't be easy with the steel line but it might work.

Your truck fits in the 7/70 - 8/75 range. The bends your line should should be right but it's not. If you pull it and straighten it out and it works, great. If not, I'll be glad to make you a new one. I'm about to close the shop for a few weeks while the basement get's major work done. So let me know soon.

 

[Efjayforty]

Unless someone has a better suggestion it looks like straightening should help. My tubes from Rainman are soft enough that bending is easy.

Thanks for info on exhaust. I’m looking at options for a tailpipe for my 45 SWB which are no longer available. I have the same (similar) downpipe to muffler as you do, Toyota stuff from SOR. At your convenience could you give me a rough measurement of the tailpipe’s length from the muffler to the 90-deg bend? Thanks. Paul

The length from the muffler to the bend is about 26 inches then about 16 inches from the bend to the end.

 

[Efjayforty]

This looks like the perfect example of a potential change in a line right on the middle of a time frame that shouldn't change. I've had that same problem with the same line before. Without having a pattern from every month of every year, it takes a long time to figure out every issue like this.

I do agree, it looks like you might be able to straighten it out some to reach. It won't be easy with the steel line but it might work.

Your truck fits in the 7/70 - 8/75 range. The bends your line should should be right but it's not. If you pull it and straighten it out and it works, great. If not, I'll be glad to make you a new one. I'm about to close the shop for a few weeks while the basement get's major work done. So let me know soon.

Thanks for the info. I'll try and stretch it but may have to hit your up for a line. Just to verify, does the front frame elbow and rear bracket appear to be in the correct locations and orentations?