I have not used shims yet n the back, with no issues. I’m running ~4” of lift. I’ll let someone more knowledgeable chime in for sure in this, but mine works great.
Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread
- Thread starter JohnJL
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Front axle from a BJ60 arrived today. The expected amount of rust and one of the hub outer rings is smashed but otherwise looks like what I need. Let the PB Blaster soaking begin...
I assume the front is not locked, everything looks intact.
I plan to disassemble, blast and refinish the calipers. I know new ones are available but what I have found look like aftermarket/copies. I'd like to try and save the OEM calipers.
Saving the knuckles.
Marlin knuckle bearings and caps are in teh shopping cart. I need to ask them about compatability of their high-steer arms with 60 knuckles on a 40 axle and spring under.
Also got 2 coats of POR engine paint on the block, brackets and cover. Forgot to take pics of that.
I assume the front is not locked, everything looks intact.
I plan to disassemble, blast and refinish the calipers. I know new ones are available but what I have found look like aftermarket/copies. I'd like to try and save the OEM calipers.
Saving the knuckles.
Marlin knuckle bearings and caps are in teh shopping cart. I need to ask them about compatability of their high-steer arms with 60 knuckles on a 40 axle and spring under.
Also got 2 coats of POR engine paint on the block, brackets and cover. Forgot to take pics of that.
That's a good looking rig there trout fisherman.
- Thread starter
- #146
I am ready to start assembling the motor soon and just need my lifting table back. Is this an acceptable mounting method for an F engine on a stand? THere are 4 M12x 1.75 threadpitch threaded bolt holes that the engine stand bracket fits well enough. My question is whether this is an acceptable attachment method for the weight of this motor? The block is quite heavy, as are the crank and heads, will those threaded bolt holes support the built block? Is there a better method?
Thanks!
Thanks!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
If you’re talking about the 4 bolt holes in the rear of the block where the bell housing bolts up to, you’re fine. Those bolt holes will work, just make sure everything is tight and secure before you put full weight on it.
Also make sure you are using a quality engine stand, something with legs that can stabilize everything when you turn it upside down.
Something with 4 legs, not the 3 leg style.
Also make sure you are using a quality engine stand, something with legs that can stabilize everything when you turn it upside down.
Something with 4 legs, not the 3 leg style.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I see your engine stand up there, you’ll be good!
- Thread starter
- #150
Thanks.
OEM calipers for an 85 BJ60 are on the way from CO. I took the 60 axles apart and the driver's side was really rusty. The knuckles are salvagable but everything else including the hubs, outer birf and inner axle is toast. The passenger side is fine but obviously old.
Longfields from trailgear includes hubs for $550 Trail Gear Longfield FJ40 30-Spline 4340 Chromoly Axle & Birfield Kit. Marlin has what looks like pairs of birfs and axles for ~$550. Chromoly 30-Spline Axle Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.. My differential is a stock 30-spline FJ40 in front, I think I need 30 inners, 30 outers and once everything is in I am guessing I will need to do some measurements to see which hub will fit? I seem to recall some birfields are longer than others and some need deeper hubs? I have 2 mismatched warn 6-spline hubs, 1 good 86 FJ60 30-spline Aisin hub and another stock 86 hub with a broken outer faceplate. I dont know if I can piece together a pair of matching hube from what I have.
OEM calipers for an 85 BJ60 are on the way from CO. I took the 60 axles apart and the driver's side was really rusty. The knuckles are salvagable but everything else including the hubs, outer birf and inner axle is toast. The passenger side is fine but obviously old.
Longfields from trailgear includes hubs for $550 Trail Gear Longfield FJ40 30-Spline 4340 Chromoly Axle & Birfield Kit. Marlin has what looks like pairs of birfs and axles for ~$550. Chromoly 30-Spline Axle Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.. My differential is a stock 30-spline FJ40 in front, I think I need 30 inners, 30 outers and once everything is in I am guessing I will need to do some measurements to see which hub will fit? I seem to recall some birfields are longer than others and some need deeper hubs? I have 2 mismatched warn 6-spline hubs, 1 good 86 FJ60 30-spline Aisin hub and another stock 86 hub with a broken outer faceplate. I dont know if I can piece together a pair of matching hube from what I have.
- Thread starter
- #151
So more web research done, but would appreciate some confirmation?
My 30-spline inner axles are in good condition, so I should remove the outer 6-spline stock 40 outers (I think this involves some c-clip spashing?)
Then order 30-spline outer birfields for FJ60's to fit the 60 knuckles I have now.
60-series outer hub spindles.
60series brass bushing for the hub spindle
Are 40 and 60-series outer wheel bearings the same? I ordered a set previously for my 40 but now have 60 from the knuckles-out.
Thanks!
My 30-spline inner axles are in good condition, so I should remove the outer 6-spline stock 40 outers (I think this involves some c-clip spashing?)
Then order 30-spline outer birfields for FJ60's to fit the 60 knuckles I have now.
60-series outer hub spindles.
60series brass bushing for the hub spindle
Are 40 and 60-series outer wheel bearings the same? I ordered a set previously for my 40 but now have 60 from the knuckles-out.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #155
What's the 'nuclear option' when trying to get stubborn steering arms off knuckles? I have tried....
soaking in PB blaster for 2 weeks
striking the stud from the top with a brass drift. No cone washers came out with this.
striking the side of the cone washers with a brass drift
striking the side of the cone washers with a chisel. One cone washer came out.
Heating the arm and studs with MAP gas and then with freesenfree spray
Pressing the bearing race out from the opposite side with a 5 ton press. I just keep breaking the wood 2x4 under the studs.
Any next suggestions?
Thanks!
soaking in PB blaster for 2 weeks
striking the stud from the top with a brass drift. No cone washers came out with this.
striking the side of the cone washers with a brass drift
striking the side of the cone washers with a chisel. One cone washer came out.
Heating the arm and studs with MAP gas and then with freesenfree spray
Pressing the bearing race out from the opposite side with a 5 ton press. I just keep breaking the wood 2x4 under the studs.
Any next suggestions?
Thanks!
I've always been able to get them off putting brass drift on the stud inside the bearing and whacking it with a hammer. Any wood you use in a hammer situation will absorb the impact and slow your progress, get them on a solid base.
- Thread starter
- #157
Thanks for replying. I am trying not to damage the studs on the opposite side on a hard surface, I've always used a piece of hard wood to keep from damaging the threads. Ive gotten the other sides off and at least 6 others off before but never had this hard a time. Maybe thats what it means to "go nuclear." Have you driven the arm out by the inside of the bearing stud with the cone washers still intact? It seems to me if the cone washers are still intact then forcing the arm out will just tighten the cone washers' grip on the studs?
I am on the verge of welding up some nuts on teh studs and try to back them out, though I am sure some will break and them I am spending hours carefully drilling out broken studs, which sucks.
Any other trick for getting those cone washers out and/or the arm off?
Thanks!
I have not done this with the cone washers in place. Ive had to resort to hitting the side of the trunnion cap or arm pretty good with a steel drift to knock them loose. Once you see them move out a little go back to the inside.
- Thread starter
- #159
I ordered the new SOS Performance rear disc brake kit and received it today. A few notes to share;
- All the items were packaged nicely and organized
- There were no instructions or illustrations. It took me 2 hours of trial-and-error to figure out which bracket went on which side, in what orientation. This was very frustrating.
- The brackets and backing plate bolt holes were not located properly and needed to be reamed out.
- The bracket spacers interfere with the axle housing. I had to use an air file to flatten one side on the spacer so the bracket would sit properly.
- The hardware wasnt correct for my 1974 FJ40. The bracket bolts were 15mm too long, I had to swap in some from my collection. The ones supplied would have bottomed out on the unthreaded shank and left a lot of exposed thread.
So a bit of a bumpy road so far, hopefully they perform. The calipers are marked as OEM remanufactured. They look correct. I am glad to have Toy parts used in the process. Sequoia calipers, rotors and pads.
- All the items were packaged nicely and organized
- There were no instructions or illustrations. It took me 2 hours of trial-and-error to figure out which bracket went on which side, in what orientation. This was very frustrating.
- The brackets and backing plate bolt holes were not located properly and needed to be reamed out.
- The bracket spacers interfere with the axle housing. I had to use an air file to flatten one side on the spacer so the bracket would sit properly.
- The hardware wasnt correct for my 1974 FJ40. The bracket bolts were 15mm too long, I had to swap in some from my collection. The ones supplied would have bottomed out on the unthreaded shank and left a lot of exposed thread.
So a bit of a bumpy road so far, hopefully they perform. The calipers are marked as OEM remanufactured. They look correct. I am glad to have Toy parts used in the process. Sequoia calipers, rotors and pads.
