1973 FJ55 12HT conversion

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CenTXFJ60

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Threads
141
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4,374
Location
Spring Branch TX (Hill Country)
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I’ve worked on a few cruisers but this 55 is a first for me. I’m doing this job after being hounded for some time. This thread is more about getting help on the 55 vs the diesel part. The truck was dropped off over a year ago and I’ve not spent much time on it. Really need to understand a few things due to my lack of knowledge on the 55’s. Attached are a few pictures of how it sits today. You’ll see that there are a few modifications. My first two questions are the shifter console and what it looked like originally. Then the rear axle. Notice the pumpkin is centered and it has disk brakes. Any thoughts on where this came from is appreciated. Thanks. Jim
 
Jim,
There was no console originally. I have no idea where they got those controls from but that’s pretty special. The original controls were all in the center area of the dash. I’m at work for another few weeks and don’t have any decent interior photos on my phone to show you. There shouldn’t be a hump that big at all. The original hump is about the same height as the 40s.
Glenn
 
Jim,
There was no console originally. I have no idea where they got those controls from but that’s pretty special. The original controls were all in the center area of the dash. I’m at work for another few weeks and don’t have any decent interior photos on my phone to show you. There shouldn’t be a hump that big at all. The original hump is about the same height as the 40s.
Glenn
Glenn, I figured this was a custom job. Putting in a H55 so will be removing the console. Also taking out the Chrysler 318 to make room for the new motor. Any idea on the rear axle? Can a 60 axle run without major modifications? My concern with the centered pumpkin is the driveshaft will be at a weird angle. If it works I’ll go with it but not experienced enough on driveshafts to know if that angle from the Toyota T-case to the centered diff will cause issues on the joints. Thanks Jim.
 
Looks like a lot of "custom" going on there. Glad it's in good hands. Maybe some more pictures of that rear axle? Didn't very early '40s have a centered rear diff? I wouldn't run a centered diff with an offset case. If you want some good technical reading on driveshafts as they apply to 4 wheel drives: BillaVista.com-Driveshaft Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
 
Jim,
Guys run 60 axles under them quite a bit. There are some modifications but nothing crazy. I think the offset between the Toyota case and the centered rear would be too much but I’m no expert on that.
Glenn
 
But thinking the u joints should compensate for that. Correct?
Look at how the OEM's align things (for longest life, minimal vibration). They are very close in operating angle if not aligned. Sure you can run them at steeper (and compound angles, i.e. drooped and offset laterally) but the useful lifespan of the joints will drop exponentially with steeper angles (assuming you can get them in plane and to work out vibration-free). They're also weaker when at steeper angles (i.e. the old advise to be careful with the skinny pedal in 4wd and the front wheels turned, to keep the front U-joints alive, in domestic stuff ) I saw a chart for the lifespan vs. operating angle somewhere, Spicer catalog maybe?
That reminds me, I owe you some sway bar bushings Jim!
 
Look at how the OEM's align things (for longest life, minimal vibration). They are very close in operating angle if not aligned. Sure you can run them at steeper (and compound angles, i.e. drooped and offset laterally) but the useful lifespan of the joints will drop exponentially with steeper angles (assuming you can get them in plane and to work out vibration-free). They're also weaker when at steeper angles (i.e. the old advise to be careful with the skinny pedal in 4wd and the front wheels turned, to keep the front U-joints alive, in domestic stuff ) I saw a chart for the lifespan vs. operating angle somewhere, Spicer catalog maybe?
That reminds me, I owe you some sway bar bushings Jim!
You don’t owe me anything Klaus. Just keep your suggestions and good knowledge coming my way. If I’m to switch axels which is a better fit? 60 or a 40?
 
You don’t owe me anything Klaus. Just keep your suggestions and good knowledge coming my way. If I’m to switch axels which is a better fit? 60 or a 40?
Jim I don't know anything about 55's other than Shelley thinks they're ugly, I covet every one I see, and that there were 2 on the local CL for under $2k that I have been irresponsibly close to picking up... I'm sure someone who's actually done this can chime in!
 
I’m home today. Will get some better pictures of the axle

Look for welds on the axle tubes. I bet the long side was cut down and the short side lengthened.

I would put the correct offset rear axle under there. Keep in mind with a wider 60 rear axle that you'd need to make the front wider as well to match. Or it will drive funny.
 
Look for welds on the axle tubes. I bet the long side was cut down and the short side lengthened.

I would put the correct offset rear axle under there. Keep in mind with a wider 60 rear axle that you'd need to make the front wider as well to match. Or it will drive funny.
Matt, good suggestions and I appreciate it. do you or anyone here know if the 40 axle is the same as a 55? I have a few xtra of those if needed.
 
Matt, good suggestions and I appreciate it. do you or anyone here know if the 40 axle is the same as a 55? I have a few xtra of those if needed.

Yeah they're the same but 55 rear axles have sway bar mounts. Weld some new tabs to a 40 axle
 
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