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Glenn, I figured this was a custom job. Putting in a H55 so will be removing the console. Also taking out the Chrysler 318 to make room for the new motor. Any idea on the rear axle? Can a 60 axle run without major modifications? My concern with the centered pumpkin is the driveshaft will be at a weird angle. If it works I’ll go with it but not experienced enough on driveshafts to know if that angle from the Toyota T-case to the centered diff will cause issues on the joints. Thanks Jim.Jim,
There was no console originally. I have no idea where they got those controls from but that’s pretty special. The original controls were all in the center area of the dash. I’m at work for another few weeks and don’t have any decent interior photos on my phone to show you. There shouldn’t be a hump that big at all. The original hump is about the same height as the 40s.
Glenn
I’m questioning the offset as well butLooks like a lot of "custom" going on there. Glad it's in good hands. Maybe some more pictures of that rear axle? Didn't very early '40s have a centered rear diff? I wouldn't run a centered diff with an offset case. If you want some good technical reading on driveshafts as they apply to 4 wheel drives: BillaVista.com-Driveshaft Bible Tech Article by BillaVista
Look at how the OEM's align things (for longest life, minimal vibration). They are very close in operating angle if not aligned. Sure you can run them at steeper (and compound angles, i.e. drooped and offset laterally) but the useful lifespan of the joints will drop exponentially with steeper angles (assuming you can get them in plane and to work out vibration-free). They're also weaker when at steeper angles (i.e. the old advise to be careful with the skinny pedal in 4wd and the front wheels turned, to keep the front U-joints alive, in domestic stuff ) I saw a chart for the lifespan vs. operating angle somewhere, Spicer catalog maybe?But thinking the u joints should compensate for that. Correct?
You don’t owe me anything Klaus. Just keep your suggestions and good knowledge coming my way. If I’m to switch axels which is a better fit? 60 or a 40?Look at how the OEM's align things (for longest life, minimal vibration). They are very close in operating angle if not aligned. Sure you can run them at steeper (and compound angles, i.e. drooped and offset laterally) but the useful lifespan of the joints will drop exponentially with steeper angles (assuming you can get them in plane and to work out vibration-free). They're also weaker when at steeper angles (i.e. the old advise to be careful with the skinny pedal in 4wd and the front wheels turned, to keep the front U-joints alive, in domestic stuff ) I saw a chart for the lifespan vs. operating angle somewhere, Spicer catalog maybe?
That reminds me, I owe you some sway bar bushings Jim!
Jim I don't know anything about 55's other than Shelley thinks they're ugly, I covet every one I see, and that there were 2 on the local CL for under $2k that I have been irresponsibly close to picking up... I'm sure someone who's actually done this can chime in!You don’t owe me anything Klaus. Just keep your suggestions and good knowledge coming my way. If I’m to switch axels which is a better fit? 60 or a 40?
I’m home today. Will get some better pictures of the axle
Matt, good suggestions and I appreciate it. do you or anyone here know if the 40 axle is the same as a 55? I have a few xtra of those if needed.Look for welds on the axle tubes. I bet the long side was cut down and the short side lengthened.
I would put the correct offset rear axle under there. Keep in mind with a wider 60 rear axle that you'd need to make the front wider as well to match. Or it will drive funny.
Matt, good suggestions and I appreciate it. do you or anyone here know if the 40 axle is the same as a 55? I have a few xtra of those if needed.