1970 windshield hinge removal (2 Viewers)

[Sethro60]

Does any one have sage advise on removing rusty screws that hold on the windshield hinges? Both of my pins are broken, and with the top off the windshield flops around like a beached fish. I have removed the paint around the screws with a utility knife, applied bolt breaker fluid (Drummond Open & Shut from Lawson Products) and used an impact screwdriver. I fear my only recourse will be to drill them out and tap new threads. Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[70fj40]

They are held in with capture nuts behind them. When you drill them try to drill slowly so you don’t spin them free inside the dash cavity.

 

[65swb45]

Smoke wrench heat works really well. I watched a guy in Iowa pull the hinges off of three windshield frames in a row. Every single screw came out.

Hint: propane torch isn’t hot enough. Mapp gas or oxy acetylene for the win.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Absolutely agree with 65swb45.

To me drilling and tapping is an absolute last resort. It sounds easy, but in practice drilling through the center of the bolt and maintaining the drill bit's alignment with the bolt is really difficult. It can help to have someone else look from the side to confirm the drill bit is perpendicular to the windshield slope so you are drilling correctly.

Before I went that route, I would try 65swb45's suggestion. If that doesn't work, I'd try welding a nut to the heads of the screws.

Good luck... I don't envy you this task.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like Kroil and time.

 

[Chamba]

Drill a small hole at the rear of the frame behind where the screws enter the frame. Use the tube from the pb blaster and spray the back side of the screws from there. You've got a wire on the right side (from memory) which holds on the wiring for the wiper. One of those screws may be close enough to let you soak the back with pb blaster from that existing hole.

If you fold the screen down you may be able to get enough pb blaster up to those screws from below without drilling a hole. Then make sure you're using a number 3 Phillips.

 

[MDH33]

Hand impact screwdriver should do it. They require a little finesse to work properly if you're not used to using them. I always try both directions to get it broken loose. Making sure the bit is the proper size and I always kind of preload the spring a little by twisting in the direction it's set for to take out slack, then hit it hard with a 2 lb hammer. Heat and penetrant help as mentioned. Only fail I've had was the rear barn door screws on the top that have that floating captive bar retainer in the tub. Ugh. One of those broke off and had to drill/tap. Not fun!

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Hand impact screwdriver should do it. They require a little finesse to work properly if you're not used to using them. I always try both directions to get it broken loose. Making sure the bit is the proper size and I always kind of preload the spring a little by twisting in the direction it's set for to take out slack, then hit it hard with a 2 lb hammer. Heat and penetrant help as mentioned. Only fail I've had was the rear barn door screws on the top that have that floating captive bar retainer in the tub. Ugh. One of those broke off and had to drill/tap. Not fun!

Something to keep in mind with the impact drivers is the bits that typically come with impact drivers are what I'll call "standard Phillips bits". Toyota uses JIS fasteners, and it would be better to use a JIS bit. (JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard)

For your purposes you want as much contact between the bit and the fastener as possible. There is a difference....

 

[coinoperated40]

Sometimes I try to tighten first before loosen.
Call me crazy, but it has worked. Heated and not. Just a tap or two with impact.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have a hammer drive impact screw driver from JC Whitney 40 or 50 years ago seldom used. A while back I bought some JIS bits that fit the 5/16 drive from Amoron - they look like good bits - haven't used them yet.