Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've decided to at least temporarily go to radials until they wear out.

In the spirit of minimalism went with Goodyear Trail Runner ATs in 235/75-15s. I got rid of my daily driver RAV4, so figured I wanted something better in wet and snow this winter.

Will relook once I've worn these out.

View attachment 3755592

View attachment 3755593
How do they ride comparatively? Tires can change the whole attitude of a vehicle. Those look like they'll be comfy.
 
Put the key ring holder up in place of the honor

View attachment 3692494

View attachment 3692495

Not to clog up your thread, but here's my key ring holder, painted to match my 40:

key holder.jpg


I haven't decided yet where to put it in the new house - was going to put it in my office, but the mrs. likes it too and wants to put it in her kitchen by the door to the garage.

Thanks again for the idea, and where to buy it from.
 
My Warn 8074 crapped the bed a few weeks ago and I'm having a heck of a time finding repair parts. The solenoids are NLA, the replacement packs from Warn are on permanent backorder and I'm trying to figure out the Albright contactors.
IMG_20241025_192815248_HDR.jpg

These chinesium Albright units are either mismarked, or are useless. The pole marked negative just can't work under this setup. Or I'm missing something.
IMG_20241025_200835742_HDR.jpg
 
Well, after some research, I found a source for the proper Albright unit. Amazon carries the Albright DC88P 1000, which is known to fit under the stock box and has the correct markings for 8074/8274 use.
Check out gigglepin for 8074 repair parts. These winches have a cult following in Europe.
 
The relays should be available closer than Europe, and any starter and alternator shop should be able to rebuild or replace that motor for 2-3 Benjis. The starter shop people will have a source for correct relays which should be continuous duty type. Often the auto parts stores will sell you Ford starter relays which will work, but are not continuous duty so they will not work for very long.
I realize that the internet is the new way of things but really this is a job for your local starter and alternator guy.
 
The relays should be available closer than Europe, and any starter and alternator shop should be able to rebuild or replace that motor for 2-3 Benjis. The starter shop people will have a source for correct relays which should be continuous duty type. Often the auto parts stores will sell you Ford starter relays which will work, but are not continuous duty so they will not work for very long.
I realize that the internet is the new way of things but really this is a job for your local starter and alternator guy.
I chose to spend $100 and get the Albright unit. Waterproof and won't fail in the "on" position.

Might go underhood and go to wireless remote.
 
I've decided to at least temporarily go to radials until they wear out.

In the spirit of minimalism went with Goodyear Trail Runner ATs in 235/75-15s. I got rid of my daily driver RAV4, so figured I wanted something better in wet and snow this winter.

Will relook once I've worn these out.

View attachment 3755592

View attachment 3755593
How does that size do, drivability wise? I went with 30x9.5 and while it’ll do 55-60, it feels like it’s max’d out, rev wise. Maybe it’s me just being paranoid though.
 
How does that size do, drivability wise? I went with 30x9.5 and while it’ll do 55-60, it feels like it’s max’d out, rev wise. Maybe it’s me just being paranoid though.
I can do 70 in them.

But I grew up in the 60s and 70s when most final drive ratios were 1:1 so am used to revs
 
So, while waiting on my Albright contactor to arrive, I cleaned up the motor. Still want to keep the patina on the 8074 casing and partial decal though.
IMG_20241028_203810909_HDR.jpg

Was debating whether to retain the original controller box or go underhood, and am wondering where you put the remote receptacle if you go underhood. Also gotta be significantly cheaper to rewire the original box because shorter wiring runs
 
Wired it right the first time. Made my own set of custom 2 ga wires, which was rewarding. I do not like the proximity of the lugs under the box so I cut a hole to bring power in from the side and will put some kind of barrier between the poles just in case. My original solenoid setup did not ground the remote receptacle so I did that to the motor body as well

IMG_20241106_113332649_HDR.jpg


IMG_20241106_113340219_HDR.jpg
 
Wired it right the first time. Made my own set of custom 2 ga wires, which was rewarding. I do not like the proximity of the lugs under the box so I cut a hole to bring power in from the side and will put some kind of barrier between the poles just in case. My original solenoid setup did not ground the remote receptacle so I did that to the motor body as well

Just FYI, you can get rubber boots the right size for heavy-gauge cables with ring terminals also. Can't remember where I bought mine, but they're out there. Not the greatest photos, but like this:

IMG_0781.JPG


IMG_0785.JPG
 
Last edited:
Just FYI, you can get rubber boots the right size for heavy-gauge cables with ring terminals also. Can't remember where I bought mine, but they're out there.

I did the same, and don't recall the vendor. I think I found the warn part # for the boot and ebay searched the #. I think I found a guy in Ohio. They were an decent aftermarket version.
 
Last edited:
I did the same, and don't recall the vendor. I think I found the warn part # for the boot and ebay searched the #. I think I found a guy in Ohio. They were an decent aftermarket version.

I might have gotten mine from Warn - I do remember they were a tight stretch over the much-heavier-than-stock cables I had made.
 
I will order some of those forthwith. Unfortunately, they appear to come in sets of four, but I'll live with an extra.

My oil pressure crapped the bed again on the way to get the dogs, but the engine was running sweet so I kept driving after checking everything out.

Got back home and temporarily hooked up the live sender/gauge and it's got a healthy 60 psi at idle. I then noticed the stock sender had a nice sized dent in it.

I'm not a fan of live oil pressure; I burned up an engine back in the day when the hose broke and ran the engine dry. Might hold my nose and throw a new sender at it to see if that fixes the issue.
 
Looking for a new oil sensor is quite a head scratcher. I'm assuming this unit will do.
I'm also assuming the extra tab spot welded to the unit is for oil light, but would hate to get the wrong thing at that price.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom