- Thread starter
- #461
Yeah it’s easy enough to try. It was working fine but can’t hurt!
Builds 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build
- Thread starter royal cake
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,472
- Messages
- 36,753
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Sounds like dirt in the needle/seat of the carb to me.
- Thread starter
- #463
Pull the top plate? I was just mentioning to my wife all it takes is one piece of sand.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,472
- Messages
- 36,753
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
You can actually just unscrew the nut directly above it and tap on the needle with something like a paper clip. Part of ingenious design of the F carbs.
If the engine starts running better, you have successfully moved the dirt into the fuel bowl. NOW it is time to take off the air horn!
- Thread starter
- #465
So some things I’ve checked off the list-
- took vacuum gauge out of the loop
- added gas to the tank just to be sure I had gas
- routed around the fuel filter in case it was clogged
- carb: Tried tapping the needle from the top; didn’t change so I pulled the air horn just to see. Only things noted were a couple particles in the bowl which I cleaned out, and accel pump boot is torn. Other than than I cleaned what I could see with some carb cleaner.
It still seems like a fuel issue. It’ll have moments (few seconds) of smooth running then bog/sputter. Sometimes giving a little gas will bring it out if it, but then hitting the gas more will cut out again (doesn’t seem like an idle issue).
When it sputters I see white out of the exhaust, not sure if that’s raw fuel or what.
Anyway keeping my options open. If I need to dig further into the carb I can do that as well if needed.
- took vacuum gauge out of the loop
- added gas to the tank just to be sure I had gas
- routed around the fuel filter in case it was clogged
- carb: Tried tapping the needle from the top; didn’t change so I pulled the air horn just to see. Only things noted were a couple particles in the bowl which I cleaned out, and accel pump boot is torn. Other than than I cleaned what I could see with some carb cleaner.
It still seems like a fuel issue. It’ll have moments (few seconds) of smooth running then bog/sputter. Sometimes giving a little gas will bring it out if it, but then hitting the gas more will cut out again (doesn’t seem like an idle issue).
When it sputters I see white out of the exhaust, not sure if that’s raw fuel or what.
Anyway keeping my options open. If I need to dig further into the carb I can do that as well if needed.
- Thread starter
- #466
Well I pulled the carb; made sure the main jets were clean, bypass? jets, sprayed any passages I could, and adjusted my valves again.
No dice. Could still be something in the carb I can’t see or something completely different. I’m realizing it would be handy to have spares to swap for purposes of troubleshooting. Haha
No dice. Could still be something in the carb I can’t see or something completely different. I’m realizing it would be handy to have spares to swap for purposes of troubleshooting. Haha
Hmm. Check timing and plug wires just to do it?
- Thread starter
- #468
Yeah I should check timing. I did pull all the plugs and checked them.
Whats interesting is it’ll run so smooth for maybe 30 seconds or so then do its thing. So maybe it’s still a float/needle issue.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,472
- Messages
- 36,753
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Are you still running the old coil that you told me about?
- Thread starter
- #470
Yes…when I saw your post it triggered my memory that I have one lying around. I’m going to try it
- Thread starter
- #471
No dice. Other coil works, but same issue -but good call.
I should have added points and condenser on the list too. Those parts are pure Chinesium these days.
- Thread starter
- #473
I replaced those when we got back from off roading, fortunately I have Toyota parts. I was talking to Mark about why my points were so degraded after 3500 miles; so we were chatting about my coil.
When I first got my 40 it was running smoothly, then occasionally it would start to sputter, rough idle, missing, low power, etc. and go back to running smoothly until next time. It turned out to be a minor vacuum leak on the brake pedal linkage rod that goes into the back of the booster. That was back when you could buy a booster rebuild kit. That fixed it. Just FYI. Listen for a hissing noise under the dash, see if that’s it.
- Thread starter
- #475
Thanks- I don’t have a booster but yeah I’m watching out for any leaks like that. The only light at the end of the tunnel with these things is the aha! moment when you find out what it is. Then add that to your memory bank for next time. Haha
- Thread starter
- #476
So what else have I tried today…
I cleaned the idle circuit then decided to pull the carb again to see if I missed anything. Float seems free, needle/seat look clean. Primary looks pretty wet with gas but maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be? Not sure what I should look for if it’s not. The only thing visibly wrong is the accel pump is torn; but could that be causing an issue or is that more for debris?
Anyway, on we go.
I cleaned the idle circuit then decided to pull the carb again to see if I missed anything. Float seems free, needle/seat look clean. Primary looks pretty wet with gas but maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be? Not sure what I should look for if it’s not. The only thing visibly wrong is the accel pump is torn; but could that be causing an issue or is that more for debris?
Anyway, on we go.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,472
- Messages
- 36,753
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Left you a voicemail.
If the accelerator pump plunger thing is broken it'll make it hard to start at minimum. That happened on my rig, went back to OEM and hasn't been a problem since. Mark has a procedure on that, I think - we talked about it in camp.
- Thread starter
- #479
Appreciate it Mark- will add to the list. I’m here picking up my daughter from volleyball so back to getting my hands dirty in a little bit.
She made the high school team and now at club practice so this will be a busy year
I’ve got a couple things to tackle and that’s been one of them. I have a horrible memory so I must have forgotten that conversation
- Thread starter
- #480
Well I don’t know who gets the next meal - @majdomo or @65swb45, or maybe both.
I threw in my old distributor as Mark had suggested and it’s running like a Swiss Watch. At least so far so good. Why though? Well only thing I can see when I pulled my distributor is that the points gap is super wide. Did it slip? @majdomo called points.
Before I dropped it in I even cleaned it up; maybe like dressing up before you know you’re going to die? Or maybe cause if I worked I wanted it to look good
So next step is reset the points gap and throw my other dizzy back in to see if that was it.
Either way, on the plus side-
- I know I have a ready to go drop in spare dizzy
- I know how to remove, clean and replace my carb with my eyes closed
- I know more things when it matters on the road or on the trail.
Will update when I swap the dizzy.
I threw in my old distributor as Mark had suggested and it’s running like a Swiss Watch. At least so far so good. Why though? Well only thing I can see when I pulled my distributor is that the points gap is super wide. Did it slip? @majdomo called points.
Before I dropped it in I even cleaned it up; maybe like dressing up before you know you’re going to die? Or maybe cause if I worked I wanted it to look good
So next step is reset the points gap and throw my other dizzy back in to see if that was it.
Either way, on the plus side-
- I know I have a ready to go drop in spare dizzy
- I know how to remove, clean and replace my carb with my eyes closed
- I know more things when it matters on the road or on the trail.
Will update when I swap the dizzy.
