1968 FJ40 Build (1 Viewer)

[wpns4l]

So I bought this 40 back in 2020 from a mud member in Texas with the intentions of doing a frame off at some point. Well that time is now.

Plan is take it back to as original as possible but not attempting to do a concourse level restoration either. Not putting in a 2F or 4 speed. Want to convert it back to column shift. I believe it was originally green. I kinda want to go spring green but will make that call when it's time to do paint.

Plan is to get the body off and engine/trans off and start with the frame. Do engine and trans work second and body/paint last. That will give me time to practice welding before I get to the body. My timeframe for all this is 1-2 years.

Now for pics. Here is what I'm starting with.

 

[wpns4l]

This is as far as I got today. Hopefully have body and engine out by this weekend

 

[Mark Jennings]

I have a 68 that we did a body off in 2017 and 2018….we wanted a few modern conveniences and modern reliability WITHOUT sacrificing the heart and sole of what it was like to drive a 1968 vehicle….so here are some things to consider.

1) Recommended….adding Vintage Air heating and AC. It will fit a 1968 F. I also tee’d in a working rear heater and used the original heater contol valve to modulate heat in the rear.

2) Recommended….non-power 4 wheel disk brakes. I used GM metric brakes with Chevy rotors. The rig stops straight and with non-power it takes a bit of ‘leg’, but they work well. Used a T100 duel ckt. master, and Willwood proportioning valve and 2.5 psi residual valves….

3) Recommend…modern electrical system. I used an American Electric 11 ckt. system from Summit…it is very reliable and grounding ghosts are non existent. And you’ll need a modern harness to support the AC.

4) Recommended….an auxiliary fuel tank. You’ll appreciate not having to fill-r-up every week if you drive it regularly.

5) Recommended…..Dakota Digital VHX. I love the tachometer….and volt meter vs. amperage.

6) Recommended….keep the 3 on the tree. Overdrives are rare, but if you can find one, pay the premium and include in your build….or 3:70 gears in the differentials and +31” tires.

7) Recommended….not more than a 2.5” lift…

8) Recommended…..power steering, I used a Saginaw kit. It’s light but manageable. However, there may be better options using Toyota components.

Final Comment…..enjoy the planning and the process. 68’s are great year rig to start with.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Man, nice rig as is. I get you want to “bring it back to original”. Seems like you could just do electrical and mechanical and drive as is. Many do full resto and get scared to use it.

 

[cruisermatt]

not going to comment on your actual build plans and patronize you as you have owned the truck long enough to know what you want and don't want. What I do want to know is your plan to stay commited once the truck is in the thousand pieces and avoid becoming another one of those dissasembled projects that gets sold for cheap a few years later - very common for these projects to get abandoned.

My recommendation would be if you have a major plan to change something, like the column shift, is do that while the truck is still most together and running to so you don't have to worry about scratching paint, fitting parts etc, and you can also drive it and make sure you actually like it etc if you haven't driven one before

 

[onemanarmy]

yea....i'd drive it as is! The patina is perfect. These are working trucks

 

[wpns4l]

So I'm actually not a fan of the patina look. Nothing against people who are but not for me. It's gonna get painted and while I have no plans to off-road it once completed it will get driven. I have an 80 for off roading.

As for the modernization comment unless I have no choice on something due to parts availability or something I don't plan on adding disc brakes, power steering none of that. Will consider the aux tank though. Or if something like it needs new pistons comes up and I guess from what reading I've done pistons for 1Fs are non existent then I'll consider going 2F if stuff like that comes up.

For the comment of if I'm gonna finish it or if it's just gonna become a pile of parts I'm pretty confident it will get finish. I say 1-2 years but I'm not retiring for 10 more years so I got nothing but time. Plus it was a running driving vehicle so worst case I just put it back together and drive as is.

We'll see, you guys definitely know more than me at the end of the day. I'm primarily on the 80 forums so plan is to just take my time and do one thing at a time and read all the threads related to each task I'm doing.

Today's progress.

 

[cruisermatt]

You got this

 

[Mark Jennings]

F engine hard parts are available. Talk to your machine shop that will clean up the block and bore/hone the cylinders. Crankshafts are a bit troublesome but can still be found. Cams and lifters are regrindable. Valve train parts are also getting scarce….but as a general rule clean up and are reusable.

Machine shops have part sources we don’t see as average consumers.

 

[wpns4l]

Down to just the tub now. Hopefully get that off tomorrow. Only had two cut two bolts so far and broke one. Plan on replacing all the hardware anyways. Plus everything is mix match to begin with and in some places they used screws instead of bolts. Huge pet peeve of mine when they use different sizes on the same piece. Makes it take so much longer to get a part off.

 

[Grayscale]

I'd certainly paint the engine for the restoration. But, I'm not convinced about rebuild-quality. Like the '82 head on the bench. Headgasket leaks left carbon deposits between every pair of cylinders. Perhaps the surface finish on the head deck was a little too smooth, as there are specs for surface finish depending on the type of gasket, etc.? The replacement (non-Teq) exhaust valves being .001 bigger in diameter don't exactly fit in the factory valve guide, and are questionably to spec according to the manual. Someone does a head-job on a Land Cruiser, and they install 5/16-inch Chevy valves, or whatever they were. That is fine. But, then you need to ream out the guide so oil can cushion the space between the fatter valve and the guide, even if it is only .001-inch. I don't have a set of pin gauges, but, I did measure them using a telescoping gauge and micrometer. Either detonation, or a stuck valve, or mishandling by the mechanic, it sports a cracked exhaust valve guide, which I need to replace. I heard a shop in a podcast report, just a couple weeks ago, that they had issues with replacement camshafts not making 2F lifters and push rods rotate, but they got it right on the third try. I'd make sure that the engine actually needs a rebuild before fording that creek.

 

[wpns4l]

Today's progress. To get to this point only required cutting like 6ish bolts and one tie rod to get my steering column out.

 

[fj40openair]

@wpns4l , I’m gonna watch your progress as inspiration, as I’m about to start my process soon on mine.

I sold my house and am moving, so I’m just waiting for the right house to come on the market, then work begins.

Best of luck!

 

[wpns4l]

Engine and trans off. I gotta look into how to get the bell housing off the engine so I can put it on an engine stand. Looks like there are some bolts inside the housing i got to get too. That will be tonights googling. Will download the service manuals too since I'm to that point now.

 

[wpns4l]

Got the engine on a stand today. Not a fan of the bell housing setup. Feel like they could have made it removable without first having to remove the clutch and flywheel. Had a bunch of ball bearings fall out of the flywheel shaft so one of the bearings is toast.

Today is the end of my 10 day vacation too so expect progress to slow down going forward from here. My goal for my next days off are to finish stripping the frame, roll it outside and power wash it. Then the following weekend get the axles off so i can start repairing the frame if needed and painting it.

 

[wpns4l]

Frame is completely stripped. Only thing I had to do was cut off one bracket that someone had welded on for some unknown purpose. I'm gonna get it galvanized, already got a quote from a local place, cheaper than sandblasters wanted. See if I get it done before heading out of town this week or do it when I get back.

 

[wpns4l]

No major updates. Frame is off getting galvanized. Should have it back by next week. Then the plan is to paint it most likely with some Easton chassis paint, gotta just make sure it works with the galvanizing.

Got the axles on stands, the tie rods aren't budging but all my tie rod pullers are to big so I gotta order some smaller ones.

Will spend this week looking at new suspension and axle/brake rebuild kits. Thinking of going with skyjacker for the springs. Whish I could just find a stock height kit but all I see is 2" kits. Plan on just running 31s.

 

[wpns4l]

For those in the know what color bolts is closest to stock? I'm looking at the overland metric either gold cad or yellow zinc bolt kits. The gold cad looks the closest to me but then some of the yellow zinc pics look closer. Hard to tell with the different lighting in the pics.

anyone have experience with either?

 

[pb4ugo]

You don't need a pickle fork. Loosen the nut, but leave it on so it's protected.
Hit the female portion.

 

[6f40j9]

It almost looks like it was Capri blue based on earlier pics, but I’m seeing them on a phone.
I have a 69 that someone converted to floor shift, but other than that appears to be mostly stock.
I went with discs up front but otherwise keeping it as original as I can within reason.
Looking forward to your progress.