Builds 1967 FJ45LPB resto-mod 1HDFT H55 build (1 Viewer)

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Bolt on like an 80-series,

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That’s inside mount, outside we will drill up through frame, weld a nut (probably with a plate) on the inside rail and the outside mount bolts up through the frame rail.

Cheers
 
I am planning to use the same 80 mount on my build. Nice to see it work on your build first.
 
I’d know that shop rag anywhere! Always happy to help.

Can’t wait to see this progress rapidly!
The ole' operating room lap pad stuffed in a hole to keep the guts clean. Between you and me we could manage a few traumas with the blue OR towels and lap pads.... also the plastic basins!
 
I am curious why you wouldn't use a 40 series crossmember with either the FJ45 or HJ47 L brackets with the H55F? Was it because you wanted to move the transmission off center from stock location? Not familiar with post 2H diesels.
 
I am curious why you wouldn't use a 40 series crossmember with either the FJ45 or HJ47 L brackets with the H55F? Was it because you wanted to move the transmission off center from stock location? Not familiar with post 2H diesels.

Not readily available? We got a 62 crossmember from Georg, had a beat down HZJ75 on hand as well as an 80. Went with what we had. I am real happy with how it has turned out.

The engine obviously was never put in a 40-series. The H55 was never mated to the 1HDFT. There is some funkiness due to this. Such as; fan on engine is offset and low, trans to engine angles left to right are not the same and more. We have also set the trans 3” higher than the 3spd that was in the Cruiser.

I never use a crossmember to align the engine. For example in a v8 swap in an 80 the Marks adapter puts the engine way to far forward, so for these swaps I modify the crossmember too. I always put the engine where I want and where it fits best. All along going into it we knew we would be heavily modifying any cross member we used. We just thought it would be a 60/62 crossmember but it turns out the 80 fits best and is the least amount of work.

Cheers
 
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Here is the bottom of the crossmember. A 12” piece was made for the center and welded in to cap off the bottom. We used 1/8” and did the dimple dies to make it look Toyota. 80-series to 60-series trans mounts have a different spread, this is modified to use the 60-series rubber mount. As mentioned before, to beef up the mount support and get the angle of the dangle how I wanted I used a piece of 3”x1/4”wall square tube that I cut into a c-channel. The crossmember was opened up to insert this on both sides and then welded all around.

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A little more work to do to make it look perfect but it’s about there.

Cheers
 
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Was hoping to see a coil linked front, but at the end of the day, leaf springs work pretty darn well and have a lot less wear points! Great build, keep the pics coming!
 
Was hoping to see a coil linked front, but at the end of the day, leaf springs work pretty darn well and have a lot less wear points! Great build, keep the pics coming!

It was considered but budget came into play.

Cheers
 
Few hours in today on the front suspension. I actually put the weight on what you see for a preliminary test.

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I needed to clean up a number of gigantic messes today. I am going to have to get some dom for the front frame side sleeve, that will slow it down a little up front but I can start in on the back anytime as well as the steering box. ;)

Cheers
 
Started in on the rear.

It was crusty rusty in here but I got it cleaned up a bit.

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This is with an OME pack using four leaves. Obviously next to no weight on it.

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Tire size is a 315. I am going to slap another set of leaf packs together and see where they land height wise.

Cheers
 
New (softer) leaf packs set up. I was happy enough with it to tack weld it on.

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Pinion flange angle, this will change slightly with the weight of the bed.

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Rear tcase output

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Shackle with my 170lbs on the suspension.

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35” rubber

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Cheers
 

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