1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project

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Cruiserguy, I would really appreciate it if you could do the scan. You can send it to mark@paverstone.com.

I will try to make some new keys. I measured the ones he used and they were about 1/32 too thin which resulted in the slop.

Thanks bull about the pin not seating, i will go with it then.

The only thing left to figure out is why my bracket will not seat against the frame, which might be answered when I get the scan from Cruiserguy. Maybe it is not assembled correctly. When we tighten the bracket to the frame, you can not move the arm at all.

I have not done my rear quarters yet. I want to have the chassis finished before I even think about the body. I have some salvaged doors and rear quarters tho and if I can not bend my own stuff will cut them up for the filler pieces. I will try not to bc I hate to miss them up, but not sure why I really care to save them? Now that I think about it, I need to see if by chance I have an extra center arm in all that junk.

Is there any trick to getting the woodruff keys into the body without them falling out?
 
Is there any trick to getting the woodruff keys into the body without them falling out?

They should fit in snug on their own. I'll scan tonight.
 
You should have an e-mail with the two scans for the center arm assembly.
 
That really looks good merbes. The cad plating is so awesome.

The stock 15" wheels are far less than you'd think. Don't remember off the top of my head, but my Dad bought 5 from CDan less than a month ago, and I was amazed at how inexpensive they were.

Dan
 
That really looks good merbes. The cad plating is so awesome.

The stock 15" wheels are far less than you'd think. Don't remember off the top of my head, but my Dad bought 5 from CDan less than a month ago, and I was amazed at how inexpensive they were.

Dan

CDan sent me a price of around $84.00 ea.

I know this has been widely discussed here, but isn't 33x10.5 the best size tire to go with for our LV's with the OME lift? Not too aggressive, not too skinny? I am thinking about the BFG MT. I have seen some guys go with the 9.5's but I think the 10.5's maybe were not available at the time or something? I also don't want a really noisy tire and have heard that the MT's were not too bad. I know the AT would be more quite, but I like the looks of the MT better. Lets face it, my LV will see very little mud so the MT's are overkill any how.
 
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Can someone point me to the thread about what you do to replace the smog pump pully when you desmog? I know I have seen it, just can't find it.


You need a pully there. SOR makes a $$ replacement. I fella could fab one up pretty easily if you had the time and the balls to make it work.

Smog Pump Elminator!!!


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It bolts up to the area where the smog pump is.

That pic is missing the actual belt pulley that bolts onto that round piece in the pic. Sold seperately :rolleyes:


in the early years I was suckered into buying one. I can take a pic of it on my FJ40 tomorrow
 
Thanks bull. I just found this post on desmoging and it says I do not need the pulley if I am running factory PS, which I am.


Quote:
"Initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in its place."

link:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/124998-76-2f-desmog-pics.html
 
It bolts up to the area where the smog pump is.

That pic is missing the actual belt pulley that bolts onto that round piece in the pic. Sold seperately :rolleyes:


in the early years I was suckered into buying one. I can take a pic of it on my FJ40 tomorrow

Can someone confirm that I will not need the smog pump or a replacement pulley since I will be running factory PS? Thanks
 
Quick update with no pics, yea boring. But will post some soon. New engine block is at machine shop and being rebuilt, complete. Not going to mess around anymore. It will be new when finished. They are going to do the major assembly so I know it will be done correctly, then I will start the detailing process of the engine block again and get it and the trany in the frame. We also pulled out the wiring harness and looked it over. It is in excellent shape and will not need too much work. During disassembly we cut it at the firewall figuring we would make a connection there using some of those nice water tight connectors available. Should not have done that but too late now. Front end is together, center arm is done etc. Working on the rear disc and then brake lines while waiting for the engine. Thats it for now.
 
bolts

I buy all my bolts from a local shop. Just like factory. They gave me a book and the company makes a lot of automotive and metric nuts and bolts. AU - VE - CO. You can order a catalog from them. I buy in bulk and it usually takes around 3 days to get here.
Mike
 
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Need help with the wiring harness. It is in pretty good shape, but the diagrams I have do not match. Can anyone email me a wiring diagram for the 66LV specifically? mark@paverstone.com

The one I have is for an HJ45 and does not match?

Also, what is the switch shown in the pics? Wipers?
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