1966 FJ40 preservation/build

[tahoe40/45]

Back at it! Had a break in the weather between NCAA games, and was able to work on the passenger door. This one is near perfect. No pitting, no rust, just a few holes where someone mounted a mirror, but that will be an easy fix.

The plan is to get the major work done outside and then clean up the hard to reach corners with a Dremel with a brash brush on it, so not worried about a few places that still have paint.

Iirc, the rubber gasket surrounding the vent window is NLA?

Also, will need replacement glass for the drivers side if anyone has one laying around.

Thanks!View attachment 2862044View attachment 2862045

Yes Bug Catcher vent window rubber is NLA. Cruiseroutfitters did have some a while ago, but i think they are sold out.

 

[EWheeler]

Iirc, the rubber gasket surrounding the vent window is NLA?

Also, will need replacement glass for the drivers side if anyone has one laying around.

Thanks!

Will these work, or are they different?

Vent Window Weatherstrip / Seal for '66 to '74 Land Cruiser FJ40 - LH and RH

A set of molded vent window weatherstrips for 7/'65 to 12/'74 Land Cruiser FJ40. Quality aftermarket replacement for the discontinued OEM part numbers 68181-60010 (RH) and 68182-60010 (LH). Note: This weatherstrip does not fit the '76 to '84 vent windows on non-U.S. trucks

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[middlecalf]

That won’t work with the bug catcher windows, it’s for the later windows with the latch at the bottom.

 

[daner]

Thanks for the info. I found an older thread doing a search but didn’t know if the info was up to date.

 

[daner]

Back at it! I think I am at a crossroad of the repaint project, and I suspect that anyone who has done a repaint can relate: How far am I willing to take this? While this somewhat battered, non-original 1965/6 is not a sought after model compared to the early 40s, 25s (and 28), the others are posting in this sub-forum, the goal is to make it so it appears to be an original survivor. I had originally hoped to take it down to the tub and do things to the best of my ability, but as I have mentioned, I am breaking bolts every time I remove a component. The new plan is to paint it as it is, which is a compromise I am not thrilled by…

 

[daner]

Spent the entire day yesterday focused on a few small repairs w/filler. Looking at the repairs in the morning light, They are not good enough.

I think the real issue is that I had the wrong music. I started with a Bob Dylan channel, but that wasn’t getting it done. Switched to a Tool channel, but that was a bit too much. Finally settled with Thelonious Monk. Think I’ll try the Howling Wolf channel this am and see what happens. These things, and caffeine are important.

 

[daner]

Drank too much caffeine and put on an artsy-fartsy 80s channel on this am and this is what happened (with apologies to my wife)

 

[EWheeler]

Drank too much caffeine and put on an artsy-fartsy 80s channel on this am and this is what happened (with apologies to my wife)View attachment 2873049

Did you paint that? Or is that a digitally modified photo?

 

[daner]

it is acrylic paint on an old board. Still need to finish the road and background.

 

[EWheeler]

it is acrylic paint on an old board. Still need to finish the road and background.

That is so bad ass you can paint like that. That is a gem.

 

[daner]

Thanks, not a real usable skill, but it is an affordable hobby that the wife approves of…unlike rescuing old Land Cruisers lol

 

[daner]

The good and the bad:

 

[daner]

This afternoon I went with an early Rolling Stones channel. I agree with Paul McCartney when he said the ‘Stones were a glorified blues band, but man, they really did have a gritty rawness to them that just worked. kind of like old Land Cruisers, simple, to the point and effective.

Here is something you don’t see often on old FJ40s: A perfect original fender with no creases, dings or repairs.

 

[middlecalf]

Used to be seeing a Coors outside of Colorado was rare, let alone on a cruiser fender in Oregon. Yeah, a long time ago .

 

[kunzma]

I noticed that you have the same toothed lock washers on your door hinge bolts in post #132 that my 64 had. I removed them because I thought they were not original. Anyone know if they are original? Is this a coincidence? There are lock washers on the nut side also.

 

[daner]

I noticed that you have the same toothed lock washers on your door hinge bolts in post #132 that my 64 had. I removed them because I thought they were not original. Anyone know if they are original? Is this a coincidence? There are lock washers on the nut side also.

I’m guessing they are original. None of my bolts had any evidence of being removed, and all had them.

 

[daner]

Feeling completely overwhelmed with this project and had to focus on other things for a while. My biggest fear is this will be one of those projects that never gets finished, like so many Land Cruiser projects we have seen. On a positive note, I only have one dent left to fix, which is good as this old truck had more than its share of little dings that weren’t apparent until you really started looking. So far, I have used about 1/2 of a one-pint can of Bondo. None more than 3/16” in thickness, mostly less than 1/8”. Is that good or bad? I don’t want it to be like one of those South American Cruisers.

 

[daner]

Interesting fact of the day: stock, original Land Cruisers really aren’t that straight. Mine has about 3/16” difference between the high and low places where the spot welds hold the rear quarter panel. I notice this as I was prepping the other side, which has a few dings.

 

[daner]

Stealing an over-used expression from a former supervisor, we have a hot mess here. The goal is to return it to a period correct appearance, and I gave myself four months and +\-$1200 budget, and time is running out and I am not happy with the results so far. In an attempt to cut a corner by not removing the paint down to bare metal, I spent the better part of the weekend trying to feather out all of the scratches and paint chips on the hood. Thought it was ready for primer, but when I took it out in the sun, I could still see dozens of small chips that I had missed. Makes me really appreciate those really great paint jobs/restorations you see on the high end stuff. As a footnote I asked my neighbor who use to own a body shop what it would cost to have it done professionally, and he mentioned 8k. He also mentioned that most body shops don’t spend much time pounding the panels straight as it is just more cost effective to throw on filler…

 

[120mm]

Stealing an over-used expression from a former supervisor, we have a hot mess here. The goal is to return it to a period correct appearance, and I gave myself four months and +\-$1200 budget, and time is running out and I am not happy with the results so far. In an attempt to cut a corner by not removing the paint down to bare metal, I spent the better part of the weekend trying to feather out all of the scratches and paint chips on the hood. Thought it was ready for primer, but when I took it out in the sun, I could still see dozens of small chips that I had missed. Makes me really appreciate those really great paint jobs/restorations you see on the high end stuff. As a footnote I asked my neighbor who use to own a body shop what it would cost to have it done professionally, and he mentioned 8k. He also mentioned that most body shops don’t spend much time pounding the panels straight as it is just more cost effective to throw on filler…
View attachment 2923551

I am not a metalshaper by any means, but I often attend metalshaping meets to learn things and watch masters at work.

Those folks routinely build and repair cars without using any filler. I admire them greatly.

A planishing hammer, a slapper and an English wheel. Pretty cool stuff.