1966 FJ40 preservation/build

[daner]

I am not a metalshaper by any means, but I often attend metalshaping meets to learn things and watch masters at work.

Those folks routinely build and repair cars without using any filler. I admire them greatly.

A planishing hammer, a slapper and an English wheel. Pretty cool stuff.

That is impressive.

 

[daner]

Looking for ideas: started removing the paint from the windshield vent and noticed it has a few pin holes, and the metal is pretty thin. Does anyone have a spare in good condition? Thoughts on other fixes? Thanks!

 

[120mm]

Feeling completely overwhelmed with this project and had to focus on other things for a while. My biggest fear is this will be one of those projects that never gets finished, like so many Land Cruiser projects we have seen. On a positive note, I only have one dent left to fix, which is good as this old truck had more than its share of little dings that weren’t apparent until you really started looking. So far, I have used about 1/2 of a one-pint can of Bondo. None more than 3/16” in thickness, mostly less than 1/8”. Is that good or bad? I don’t want it to be like one of those South American Cruisers.

View attachment 2908075

AFAIK, skim coating with Bondo is acceptable practice prior to paint.

 

[Unimogguy]

It sounds like you’d like to strip the paint faster? If so take a look at post #101 on whitey45’s thread:

Builds - "Dumpie" my new Fj45 work truck!

First time using a wet sandblasting setup on a regular pressure washer, WOW! It really works! The back of the tub represents about 7 minutes! 3200psi and Home Depot #30 sand. Messy, but great results!

forum.ih8mud.com

Seems like a less expensive solution (if you already have a pressure washer?) than having to pay to have it sand blasted and faster than sanding it by hand.

Keep up the good work! You’ll get there!

 

[daner]

Thanks for the encouragement and ideas-would have never considered using a power washer/wet sand blaster. Compared to Whitey’s seven minutes, the back of his cab would have taken me 4-5 hours to remove and prep.

 

[daner]

Good morning-been quietly making progress on the ol’ girl. I was able to cut out the rusty portions of the rear sill and replace them. My stitch welding is ugly, but effective, and after much grinding think it will be ok.
I have been trying to clarify which parts were which color for a 1965 FHT. Trying to be period correct. Unfortunately, the 1965 brochures I could find didn’t answer all of the questions, so would really appreciate feedback if you see anything that is not correct:

Body color (Spring Green):
Body
Interior
Gas tank
Interior and sides of hard top
Front turn signal canisters
Engine bay and underside of hood
Fender well interiors
Hood catches

White:
Bezel
Fiberglass portion of hardtop

Silver:
Glovebox door
Grab bar
Heater
Front bumper
4x4 engage handle

Black:
Steering column
Brake/clutch pedal
Frame
Wheels

Don’t know
Gas cap?
Screens in the windshield vent?
Canvas if I go with a soft top?

Please feel free to add or make corrections!
(As a footnote-it is amazing how many high dollar “restorations” don’t even bother using the right colors when you start looking them over closely)

Thanks!

 

[HelloKitty65]

It's an outlier, but for Spring green rigs the bezel and fiberglass cap may have been a tannish off-white. Here's a pic of the back of mine:

It really compliments the spring green paint.

Don't think the windshield screens were painted but some silver or a clear finish would be a good idea as they suffer over time.

You don't mention the heater control bracket, mine is silver.

Gas cap? Good question. I'll guess pewter.

 

[daner]

Good catch on the heater control bracket, thanks. As for the gas cap, I ask as mine appears to have vestiges of white paint, but not enough that I am confident that it is correct. Not the biggest deals in the world, but easier to catch now then to have it bug me later.

 

[daner]

Also thanks for posting the pic of your bezel, it didn’t appear until the page reloaded..I agree, it does look good next to Spring Green

 

[HelloKitty65]

If your going to go with spring green, may I suggest matching the present day color of a sample of original paint, which is paler than when new. I like the tone of the faded paint. Pic was a rig for sale in Idaho.

 

[daner]

I totally agree with that-green is a bastard of a color to match, and gets ugly real fast if it is too green. Btw, that rig is sweet!

 

[daner]

The holes in the rear sill have been cut out and new metal stitch welded in. Not perfect, but after working most of the weekend on it, this is where it is at: (the overspray is driving me nuts, but it will be painted.)

 

[daner]

And a “before” shot of the rear sill:

 

[daner]

looking online it is clear that there are many interpretations of “Spring Green” paint, so, how does this tone/shade look to everyone? The reason I ask is that I do not have a good eye for green: This is rattlecan and if It is close enough I’d like to match it so I can use it on the nuts, bolts, and other small parts on the interior so I don’t have to mix paint and fire up the compressor everytime I put something together. Not going to use it on body panels….

 

[daner]

There is no room for further discussion on the color. My wife has spoken and she likes it.

 

[daner]

Pretty big setback today. Thought I was getting close to being ready to paint and get her back on the road, but when I rolled it out into the sunlight and parked it with the light at a steep angle, I can see it is not even close to being ready. This is by far the worse quarter panel,

 

[daner]

Paint flew today.

 

[tahoe40/45]

Looks nice!
How many paint cans was that?

 

[daner]

Thanks! One gallon…bought two, saving one for the hardtop.

 

[daner]

Round II