- Thread starter
- #41
Finished getting my steering wheel, column parts, horn button & interior light switch re-conditioned. Came out very nice.
Builds 1966 FJ40 Frame-Off Build (3rd Generation Owner) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Jason Reed
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Like I said, I hope someone can help me with a nice new one of the. LOL !!!
Your probably looking for @Coolerman for wiring. Looking good on your end.
Jason, I did a little research and think "Coolerman" is the guy you need to contact about the wiring harness work. Send him a PM. The rolling chassis looks great, I'm excited to take receipt of it on 2/2/17!
- Thread starter
- #45
10-4. Thanks man- Yeah buddy. Can't wait to get this thing going...
- Thread starter
- #47
On the Steering Column, I sent my wheel off to a guy in Glendale who filled and restored it. As for the column and parts, I just powedercoated the down tube, purchased a new turn signal SW from Cruiser Corps. and my original OEM button, I had cleaned up and restored also. I didn't do anything with the steering shaft as it was fine. I haven't started on my column shift yet, but I think @Rock40 is going to be able to restore that for me (Poweder Coat).
I think the guy who did your steering wheel and light switch sold me a restored cluster. I can tell by the shiny nature of what he did and how he lays out the picture. He likes to polish things up. He does pretty good work and will certainly let you know
His stuff on ebay is super pricey but its always quality.
- Thread starter
- #49
Ha- Yup, that's him.I think the guy who did your steering wheel and light switch sold me a restored cluster. I can tell by the shiny nature of what he did and how he lays out the picture. He likes to polish things up. He does pretty good work and will certainly let you know
His stuff on ebay is super pricey but its always quality.
. He's cool. Just have to negotiate a little. But, yes, he likes to let you know about his work.
I hate to tell you, but cruiser corps sent you the wrong turn signal switch. For a 1966 you need one with bullet connectors not the plastic connector style plug. Check your harness and you will see.
Dyno
Dyno
- Thread starter
- #51
They did. Thanks, re-ordered correct on Cruiser Corps sent me the correct one. Good looking out.
Thanks for the info Jason, much appreciated.
The trail damage repair kit is mislabeled
View attachment 1364195[/QUOTE]
Think that would be the cause of the trail damage
View attachment 1364195[/QUOTE]
Think that would be the cause of the trail damage
Took receipt of Jason's 66' yesterday in Portland. Up for 36 hours straight yesterday so I'm doing this update today. The diesel 80 series suffered some serious boost issues on the way to Portland (wastegate actuator rod blew off the wastegate) but I was able to get a decent "trail fix" done in order to tow this home.
This is how exhausted hillbillies get a rolling chassis off a trailer with no ramps! Winched it with the 69' after backing it up to a short wall...and yeah, the dog just HAD to get into the back of the 40 for the short trip in the driveway
This is how exhausted hillbillies get a rolling chassis off a trailer with no ramps! Winched it with the 69' after backing it up to a short wall...and yeah, the dog just HAD to get into the back of the 40 for the short trip in the driveway
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Started tearing this down today in prep for a full rolling chassis rebuild...removed the radiator and all the engine splash guards prior to pressure washing it in the pouring rain. I'd like to know the backstory about how the frame rails got filled with mud/dirt and blackberry vines?? Vacuumed all this out prior to washing
Cleaner...
Frame brake lines, shocks, front bumper gussets, exhaust header, intake, bumpstops and rocker panel step extensions are all removed
I'm loving this California truck, most bolts have come out intact and look at this front shock mount bolt, almost like new!
Cleaner...
Frame brake lines, shocks, front bumper gussets, exhaust header, intake, bumpstops and rocker panel step extensions are all removed
I'm loving this California truck, most bolts have come out intact and look at this front shock mount bolt, almost like new!
Starter stud relocated itself...
High steer...
Uber corroded...
High steer...
Uber corroded...
- Thread starter
- #57
Think that would be the cause of the trail damage[/QUOTE]
Boy- I'm not getting it. Please explain
- Thread starter
- #58
While Ross "Rock40" goes to work on the rolling chassis in Washington, I kept the body here in California and started on my end. Sent it off to H&S Body Works in Bakersfield, CA. Probably the best shop in town that I can trust and keep it close to keep an eye on it. Soda Blast came back last week.....
- Thread starter
- #59
Some rust, but got the new panels coming from "Real Steel Cruiser Parts" in Kentucky. Should be here next week.
Had only about two hours to work on this today. Center arm is apart, most tie rods are off and then I pulled the drain cock on the rear of the engine block. Nothing came out so I pulled the larger steel fitting. This is what I found
I've currently dug into the coolant passage as far as I can with a dental type pick. Still no water, just lots of grey crud which is "semi dry". I pulled the water pump and verified that the block is indeed full of coolant. A bunch of it gushed onto the shop floor until the level fell below the water pump. Coolant passages on the upper block are pretty nasty but at least they're clear. Here's what it looks like now an the pile of crud that's come out so far
Does anybody have some suggestions on how to clear out this passage? I'm concerned that there is going to be zero coolant flow around cylinder #6. I can't be the first person to have this issue either.
I've currently dug into the coolant passage as far as I can with a dental type pick. Still no water, just lots of grey crud which is "semi dry". I pulled the water pump and verified that the block is indeed full of coolant. A bunch of it gushed onto the shop floor until the level fell below the water pump. Coolant passages on the upper block are pretty nasty but at least they're clear. Here's what it looks like now an the pile of crud that's come out so far
Does anybody have some suggestions on how to clear out this passage? I'm concerned that there is going to be zero coolant flow around cylinder #6. I can't be the first person to have this issue either.
