Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (3 Viewers)

[cult45]

Nice work. I'm hoping Sade isn't named for Marques de Sade.

 

[middlecalf]

In comparison, looks like I might of got a good deal on my rig. But don’t know if 45’s would have worked as well as mini’s in an Italian Job. For sure in a Sweet Job, lol.
Rusty little Mini Cooper sold for big bucks at auction — Fox News

 

[middlecalf]

One year later (almost), I now have a roller. But I need brake lines. Wonder what the status of mine are? (@Rainman ?)

 

[middlecalf]

Rearranged the shop a bit with the new roller. Next up drive train, starting with motor.

So when strapping the axles back on, I never paid attention to this plug near the top of the steering knuckle. Looks like a fill plug, but for what? Grease? Oil? Didn’t find any reference to this in the FSM.

 

[KT40]

Grease. Yes, you just pump it in there. Don’t be stingy either. Looking good btw! How far from Boise are you? My son is at BSU. I get up there few times a school year.

 

[a.greenspan]

Grease. Yes, you just pump it in there.

Correct... did it one time in about 30 years .
Can`t remember why I did it.

 

[middlecalf]

I’m about 40 miles NW of Boise (BSU) above Sweet (Brownlee area). I get to Boise once a week in Fall, Winter and Spring, otherwise I’m growingly trying to avoid it as it is growingly growing. Small town blood - i.e. no traffic. But do follow the Broncos!

I’ll pop some grease in there - assume it’s what you’d use if rebuilding the knuckles.

 

[middlecalf]

I think I’ve become an expert at not noticing things. Didn’t see this mod to the oil pan until now while starting to clean up the motor, nothing on rig points to its necessity (I don’t think OEM either?) as this isn’t the original motor. Nice welding job though. Thoughts on what it’s for?

On edit: or maybe this is for front diff clearance and is original?

So is this the front cover gasket leaking from oil slinger oil? Or is it a gasket behind that flate plate? I think this pulley is the press-on/pull-off type. If so I have a good puller, but how hard is it to put (press) back on with motor on stand? Anything to pay attention to since I’m an expert non-noticer?

 

[middlecalf]

I get a kick from other mud forum posts on vernacular that readily applies to this “revival.” Two great ones - rusted in the partly-exposed-to-the-compost-heap kinda way (@Dizzy) and craters of the moon rust pitting (@RAGINGMATT). My frame mimics both of these.

 

[cult45]

That sectioned oil pan isn't stock mate. Cracking job though, almost looks it.

 

[middlecalf]

Ok, to help with my insanity, remind me again what TDC is. Here’s what I remember before the scarecrow stole my brain: #1 cylinder (closest to front of vehicle, thermostat) is at the top, and both its valve rockers jiggle (i.e. valves are closed and cylinder is at the end of its compression stroke). Correct?

I ask because I wish I had a brain. And also because I removed the timing cover today to find that when the motor is in the above condition this is what I find wrt timing gears:

If this is at TDC then aren’t the marks (“dot” and “0”) suppose to line up? If I line them up then the #1 cylinder valve rockers don’t jiggle (are under pressure from the rockers and therefore open). I suppose at some point in the past the timing gears were pushed on their shafts with the motor not at TDC but with #1 at top but on an exhaust stroke. Only real issue I guess is that I make sure it’s at true TDC before installing the new dizzy. Correct?

Anyone care to assess if this is a different (newer) timing gear than original for what I think is an early ‘64 motor build? I have no history on the motor.

 

[middlecalf]

Is the shaft on the pully balancer doowicky sleeveable?

 

[FJ45VTOZ]

Didn’t see this mod to the oil pan until now while starting to clean up the motor, nothing on rig points to its necessity (I don’t think OEM either?) as this isn’t the original motor. Nice welding job though. Thoughts on what it’s for?


On edit: or maybe this is for front diff clearance and is original?

my 64 fixed top lwb has the same cut out and i wondered the same thing?

 

[middlecalf]

my 64 fixed top lwb has the same cut out and i wondered the same thing?

Interesting! What about your fixed top SWB?

Don’t know if this thread gets any visibility from the Jedi that might have a clue as to why two rigs from different continents have something in common like this unless it’s a lot more common, for whatever reason.

 

[Dizzy]

Weren't these motors also used for forklifts?

 

[middlecalf]

Idk about toyota 6 cyldrs engines, but on a lot of other engines when the marks are lined up puts the engine on TDC on the exhaust stroke. You need to confirm you're on the compression stroke.

Time to stoke the fire a bit a jump back into the F-engine FSM and see if I can refresh my memory. Hopefully @pb4ugo has this issue cornered.

 

[pb4ugo]

Time to stoke the fire a bit a jump back into the F-engine FSM and see if I can refresh my memory. Hopefully @pb4ugo has this issue cornered.

To expand on my comment. I think on a lot, but not all engines, it's more a relationship between the marks on the cam gear and the horizontal centerline of the cam gear to help determine whether it is on compression or exhaust stroke. When the marks are above the horizontal line of the cam gear would be the compression stroke and below it would be the exhaust stroke. Lining up the marks on the cam and crank gear are to ensure the cam and crank are in time with each other. I have found a lot of folks building SBC's, line up the crank gear mark at 12:00 and cam gear mark at 6:00, as they should, then assume they are on the compression stroke, which it isn't. The cam gear marks are below the horizontal line. They then install the distributor for #1 cyldr. This would be OK on a sbc, but then the engine should be timed using the #6cyldr spark plug wire, because it would be on its compression stroke. The only way to be sure to find TDC on the compression stroke, is to turn the engine over while putting your finger in the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine until air is forced out the #1 cyldr hole, or watch the valves move.

 

[middlecalf]

Im not concerned about finding TDC for #1, I’ve got access to the valves and know I’m on compression for #1 at TDC, so when I go to put the dizzy in I’ll be good to go. What puzzled me is the position of the timing gear marks. Rereading the F-engine repair manual again (mines a 9/66 printing) there’s reference to aligning the marks but no statement as to what’s where wrt cylinders or valves. I realize now that that’s because there is only one way the gears go on their shafts because of the slotted keyways as indicated in red in the pic. The green indications show where the timing marks are when #1 is at TDC and compression. Nothing in the F-engine repair manual says anything about cylinder or valve position when the marks are aligned.

@myquestoyota posted a pic from a 2F manual that does state that #6 is at TDC and compression when the marks are aligned (so #1 is TDC on exhaust stroke). Don’t know if the later motors have a different timing gear mount other than the previous slotted keyway mounts, but in any case they include the cylinder and valve position, which is good to know anyhow.

 

[middlecalf]

Is the shaft on the pully balancer doowicky sleeveable?

Yes it is! https://www.sor.com/sorPDF_inst/speedySleev.pdf

 

[pb4ugo]

I'm not sure in your last post, was there a comment or a question, but in a previous post you questioned what was top dead center(TDC). It's when the piston is at the exact top of the cyldr bore. Timing gear installation you would be referencing number 1 cyldr, in this case it's the front 1st cyldr. 6 is the last cyldr. These 2 cylders go up and down in unison, they are companion cyldrs. 1 cyldr will be on compression stroke, the other will be on exhaust stroke. The other 4 cyldrs, pair up like this too. Now as to what the valves are doing. There are 4 strokes to a 4 cycle engine and the valves open and close in relation to the strokes. Intake, the piston goes down with the intake valve open to allow the gas air mix to enter the cylder. Compression stroke, both valves are closed and the piston comes up and compresses the mixture, when the piston is near the top of the bore the spark plug fires. Power, the piston is forced down from the spark/explosion. Exhaust, the exhaust valve opens while the piston comes back up and forces the spent gas out the exhaust valve. So TDC on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is starting to open. You will probably find pressure on both the valve rocker arms. With 1 rotation of the cam gear the crank gear rotates twice. If you look at your previous pic with your red and green marks you can count the teeth between the dot on the cam gear and the 0 on the crank gear. 26 teeth each way. You can also use a straight edge and line up the dot, the center of the camshaft, the O on the crank gear and the center of the crank(TDC) .