130 amp alternator diy bracket (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 1, 2023
Threads
2
Messages
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Location
Eatonville Wa
My 80’s alternator went out so I figured I’d jump on the bandwagon of putting bigger alternators on. At my local parts store they’re actually cheaper than stock 80 amp alternators. It seems Photoman’s no longer making his brackets and no one’s selling one at the moment so I decided to modify my existing bracket to work.
I decided to do away with the adjustment slot all together and create a bracket that just pulls the alternator and uses a jam nut to hold it tight. I cut down the stock bracket and re drilled the lower hole, then made a gusset out of the left overs to support the adjustment bolt flange. I added a sleeve to the lower ear to accept an m8 bolt, this way i didn’t have to modify the adjuster bolt block.
I honestly have no idea if this will work, I’m just kind of messing around with the idea and if it doesn’t I’ll just build a replica of what photoman was making. This is more in the spirit if the KISS mindset 🤙
Let me know what you think, think it will work? I will get a lock washer under the jam nut as well.

Also dont mind my crusty ass spare 1fz 😂

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Interesting Mod.

Couldn't help but notice, are those oil leaks current?

Good time (with the alternator out) to wash off the front of the engine/timing chain cover (and fix the oil leaks so it doesn't get into and possibly damage your new alternator).

Have the distributor O-ring, oil pump cover gasket/O-ring., or valve cover gasket been replaced recently? The oil pump cover is often the largest leak that gets blown all over.


Tip: you might want to replace the NAPA Gold oil filter ASAP with something else (Toyota makes good filters). It's been discussed in the past that the NAPA Gold filter is made by WIX and a couple of people had their engines ruined when a WIX filter failed.

 
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Interesting Mod.

Couldn't help but notice, are those oil leaks current?

Good time (with the alternator out) to wash off the front of the engine/timing chain cover (and fix the oil leaks so it doesn't get into and possibly damage your new alternator).

Have the distributor O-ring, oil pump cover gasket/O-ring., or valve cover gasket been replaced recently? The oil pump cover is often the largest leak that gets blown all over.


Tip: you might want to replace the NAPA Gold oil filter ASAP with something else (Toyota makes good filters). It's been discussed in the past that the NAPA Gold filter is made by WIX and a couple of people had their engines ruined when a WIX filter failed.

Thanks for the heads up, as I said this is a spare 1fz i have in my garage.
 
Looks like a great idea. Why not run a nylon lock nut on the adjuster bolt? What alternator did you source for this modification? How is pulley alignment?
 
OK, missed the word "spare".

Either way, looks good, let us know how it works out.
 
Looks like a great idea. Why not run a nylon lock nut on the adjuster bolt? What alternator did you source for this modification? How is pulley alignment?
I will actually, this was just a nut i had laying around. It’s a 2003 Sequoia alternator, you reuse your stock pulley and it lines up. There’s a lot of threads on this and the wiring side, I just hadn’t seen anyone diy their own bracket yet.
 
Alright I figured i’d give an update. I installed this a while ago on my 80 and have been running it for about a month, daily driving and a bit of rev limiter in the snow a few times 😂 so far its performing flawlessly. I ended up using a nylock nut and I had to install it on the other side of the adjustment block. It stays tight and I haven’t needed to adjust it yet.

I was asked about making them for other people but I would need to come up with a different design if I was going to do that. Let me know if you’d like to see that. For now I just wanted to document that if you have a welder, angle grinder and a drill you could make your own bracket that works out of your factory one. I will continue to update this thread if anything happens or if its totally fine 🤙

I apologize for the picture quality it’s really hard to get pictures in there with everything assembled

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I just learned there are 2 Critical Factors that Lead to 90% of Belt Failures:
  1. Alignment of Pulleys - Use a Straight edge and ensure it touches on all 4 Sides of Sheaves.
  2. Confirm Tension of Belt - Gates sells a $15 Tester. After initial Install run Belt for few Hours then Retest. Initially Belts Stretch. After 2nd Tightening belt should be good for a Long Time. This is why newer cars have auto tension Adjusters but our Trucks have Manual (Threaded Block and Adjuster Bolt). If you use a Lot of 3/8" Extensions you can get to Adjuster Bolt and Run it in with a Torque Driver Pretty Quickly. But like a First Date take it Easy.
**If you are a in a Real Bind Dorman makes a Adjuster Bolt (T hey did for the RX anyways) and Block and they are Reasonable at Autozone. Coat the Threads with Grease to prevent Corrosion. Don't worry about it losing Torque, the other Bolts hold it secure.
 

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