12mm, 11mm, 10mm.... rusted nut.... O2 Sensor. Need wisdom

[scrowley]

I would use pb blaster, then vice grips. Maybe some heat. Usually you can get anything off with some good quality vice grips. If no luck at advanced auto I remember buying a bolt breaker....if it will fit on they work good. sometimes. After all the suggestions there is no dought rust sucks and we have all ran into this problem!! You will get it eventually with some sweat and swearing.

 

[Riad]

Kroil should do the trick. PB Blaster I think weaker than Kroil. That's my personal opinion. If those nuts are completely rusty looking then do whatever you need to do get them off without snapping the threaded shanks that is welded or part of the pipe.

 

[Mikesta]

Kroil should do the trick. PB Blaster I think weaker than Kroil. That's my personal opinion. If those nuts are completely rusty looking then do whatever you need to do get them off without snapping the threaded shanks that is welded or part of the pipe.

Kroil is great stuff - the best other than the homemade juice. I have some irwin sockets, got for christmas about 3 years ago, new in package. Forgot about them.

Been soaking in PB for a few days now, I'll get those out and report back. Great feedback and thread for those in the future that use the search feature. Unfortunately, the title of this thread sucks for findability

 

[Mikesta]

I've been soaking this for a week or so by now in PB Blaster and wanted to provide an update.

I dug out my Irwin tools, 13 and 10mm... I think a 12 would have worked, but it didn't come in my package.

I did find the PERFECT tool for this job. I've never used this tool, but received it as a christmas present 5 years ago and luckily it was in my tool crate.

Its called a Gator Grip by Endevor. It works for 1/4 - 3/4 (7mm to 19mm) nuts.

It is a deep socket with many pins in it to grip. I put it on a short rachet and got about 1/8 crank per turn. (tight spot)

It took me 30 minutes to bet both nuts off. They were really warped.

Hope this helps!!!

 

[Mikesta]

More pictures

 

[John McVicker]

Good post Mikesta,

I don't have that tool, mainly because I wasn't sure if it would do any good or not. Next time I see one I think I will buy it.

John

 

[Mikesta]

I honestly thought it would only get the rear most nut as it had more to grab, but it got the rust rounded front one off too. I will use this tool more now, however only after bathing the parts in a penetrating oil first.

 

[Cruiser804]

Dremel and a hacksaw. Once you cut off one side of the nut it will come off easily. I use both tools to cut off one side of the nut. I did have to clean up the threads of the studs after but not too much damage.

Replacement nuts are available from Toyota, SOR etc.

 

[snakeman]

A nut cracker or 5 minutes with a grinder would have worked much faster. Why spend hours trying baby $2 worth of corroded fasteners?

 

[rhyary]

Shouldn't we replace these boogers once a year as prevent maintenance?

Once you get them off why let them rust to the point of a problem ?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Cruiser804]

A nut cracker or 5 minutes with a grinder would have worked much faster. Why spend hours trying baby $2 worth of corroded fasteners?

couldn't get the nut cracker in there and I was worried the grinder would get away from me.

2X on the PM. Either that or let them disintegrate. I had a set just disappear.

 

[ToddD]

Shouldn't we replace these boogers once a year as prevent maintenance?

Once you get them off why let them rust to the point of a problem ?

I bought extra nuts just for that reason.

 

[Chaldaean]

I've switched to brass nuts and they seem to be holding up really well. I just removed my front O2 sensor after a year and the brass nuts came off really easy and were in good shape (a rarity for the Northeast). I did double-nut (jam nut) each stud as I think the OEM nuts have distorted threads for a vibration resistant friction fit.

 

[Mikesta]

A nut cracker or 5 minutes with a grinder would have worked much faster. Why spend hours trying baby $2 worth of corroded fasteners?

I'd spend hours doing the job right. Actually I've spent 100's of hours on my cruiser. No shredded threads to fix, and the new nuts from toyota went on perfectly.

Penetrating oil (done daily) takes 1 minute a day. Do this for at least three days (3 minutes).

Took me 30 minutes to figure out that this tool was the one for the job. I wouldn't consider this hours, but if it took hours to do it right vs minutes to **** it up and have to spend hours online or driving around sourcing the parts to make it right, then the time puting those parts in, I'd choose doing it right and taking my time the first time.

 

[John McVicker]

I'd spend hours doing the job right. Actually I've spent 100's of hours on my cruiser. No shredded threads to fix, and the new nuts from toyota went on perfectly.

Penetrating oil (done daily) takes 1 minute a day. Do this for at least three days (3 minutes).

Took me 30 minutes to figure out that this tool was the one for the job. I wouldn't consider this hours, but if it took hours to do it right vs minutes to **** it up and have to spend hours online or driving around sourcing the parts to make it right, then the time puting those parts in, I'd choose doing it right and taking my time the first time.

Am in total agreement w/this statment.

John

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

That was rusted.. You should see what my mine looked like. As a side note, I used wd40 on my LSPV bleeder, and it worked, I couldn't believe it. As far as I know, and it looked that way, the bleeder hasn't ever been touched.

 

[rhyary]

What is the part number on the nut?
Does anyone have it handy please?

 

[wxm]

What is the part number on the nut?
Does anyone have it handy please?

This may be too late, but the part # for O2 sensor nut is:

90179-08059