12mm, 11mm, 10mm.... rusted nut.... O2 Sensor. Need wisdom (1 Viewer)

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Mikesta

Never decruiserfied
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Got the O2 Sensor from CDAN a couple days ago, since then soaking the bad part's nuts in PB Blaster daily.
Day 1, soak.
Day 2, soak
Day 3 apply 12mm... material disinegrates. Apply 11mm, still no bite. Apply 10mm, too large.

I hope its not rust welded to the exhaust.

Looking for any tips on removing the NUTS without damaging the bolts. I'll continue to soak in PB till then.

CDan says Toyota doesn't service the bolts, so I want to do this without wreckin them (sawsall).

Thanks in advance.
 
I have the same problem. I was thinking of just using a pair of vice grips and with some heat, but I am up for any suggestions.

The problem with mine is one is a stud and the other is a bolt. So...
 
I have the same problem. I was thinking of just using a pair of vice grips and with some heat, but I am up for any suggestions.

The problem with mine is one is a stud and the other is a bolt. So...

Yea, heat. Such a crammed spot with the steps.

I'm thinking heat it up, tap around the nut to possibly break the weld and some pliars to hopefully loosen it up... but really open to any other suggestions?
 
i had to tap on mine a for a bit after soaking it in wd40. it came off fairly easy after all of that.
crapy spot to worj in thats for sure.
 
Dremel with a cut-off wheel. It will take a while and you'll go through multiple wheels (use reinforced ones or double up), but it works. At some point you can twist of the remainder of the nut or chisel it off. Run a die over the studs to clean them up before installing the new sensors.
 
Took me three weeks to get one of those suckers off. The process I used was PBBlaster (first and most importantly), socket wrench, box end, RoboGrips, blowtorch, vice grips, chisel, dremel, more blowtorch, again with the vice grips, wait for a few days, more PBBlaster, try again with the vice grips and it spun right off.
 
I am a PBB fan, but there is only one product that can free a nut this badly seized... GM 88862627 commonly know as heat valve. It is available at any GM dealer and is AMAZING, with this stuff you can slip an 1/8in hose over a 1/2in bolt like a hot knife through butter... Usually runs around $8, good luck!
 
Wire brush the hell out of them, Brillo pad, PB Blast, repeat.

That's the method I used.
 
Heat red hot, hit it with H2o. Repeat if necessary. MIke
 
I successfully used Irwin Bolt Grips

x2 (but the Craftsman equivalent to Irwin)

See post #22 here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/87050-new-oxygen-sensor-installation-need-help.html

Just this week, I hammered on a Bolt-Out to remove a broken exhaust flange stud on the motorcycle (a bit of the stud was sticking out, but I couldn't grip it well enough with Vise Grips). That saved me a bunch of time. I've been happy with the Bolt-Outs.
IMGP4549 copy.jpg
 
I went through this last winter and you just have to keep at it.

Laying on my freezing cold garage floor, I did the following and finally got them off.

1) PB
2) Heat
3) Vice Grips
4) Curse

Repeat 1-4 until they come off. Throw in some sobbing and crying and a few "Why God, Why's?!!" and they WILL come off. The sense of accomplishment made it worth it--kind of like the PHH. ;)

--Mark
 
I know some people like pb blaster but I keep a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone in a oil squirt can and swear by the stuff. It's loosened stuff I thought only a red wrench would take off.
 
At least you got a Garage. Try it on a dirt driveway. Just keep the heat and fluids to it be patient you will get there.

Thanks Bob.


I went through this last winter and you just have to keep at it.

Laying on my freezing cold garage floor, I did the following and finally got them off.

1) PB
2) Heat
3) Vice Grips
4) Curse

Repeat 1-4 until they come off. Throw in some sobbing and crying and a few "Why God, Why's?!!" and they WILL come off. The sense of accomplishment made it worth it--kind of like the PHH. ;)

--Mark
 
As all above, I grabbed mine with a irwin nut tool and it backed the stud out as well, some of the htreads where damaged , the studs are available at most auto stores, m10 if memory serves, I replaced one with an M10 bolt , no problems yet!

Cheers Peter
 
I had tried all of these suggestions and more including welding on a larger undamaged nut, but the best way I have found is a quick soak with pb blaster folowed by a six point scocket on a good veriable speed impact. If needed ive stacked adapter to go from 1/2" to 3/8 to 1/4" to get the size needed to get into the tight spots. This even works with extentions and universal joints. After the pb blaster start letting the impact pound away. i don't go full speed with the impact, just enough to show it who's boss. if it doesn't come right off, change direction and impact the bolt "on" just for a couple seconds. then back to "off" re-soak again with pb blaster and repeat. It may take a few cycles but I haven't had to take a torch or welder to a nut or bolt in years. It works well, even in tight spaces, and best of all the impact is doing all the work. If the bolt head or nut is rounded, then use the bold extractor sockets, just don't switch directions with those.
 
I guess it depends on where the car lives, too. I'm in Arizona and we don't get much of that flaky brown stuff. What's it called?


Oh, rust. That's it. We don't see much of that here.
 

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