I like the idea of the guy from Durango in this thread who bought the back clip off of the Tundra.
100 Series Ute Conversion (2 Viewers)
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I like the idea of the guy from Durango in this thread who bought the back clip off of the Tundra.
Here's a cool thread on a flatbed build (for a mini truck) that may give you some ideas as you build out the back end:
Toyospearo's FLATBED build... - YotaTech Forums
The Fab Shop - Toyospearo's FLATBED build... - My original idea was to have a shop build a flatbed that I designed. I had a rough idea of what I was after. I wanted the flat bed to accentuate the look of the 94 ext. cab body. Rather than the bed just sitting there like a flatbed, I wanted it to...
www.yotatech.com
amazing fabrication
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- #104
Not really, the frame is so beefy and beautiful, I would hate to cut it in half (unlike the cab, haha). I figure a 6 ft bed and lumber rack is a 99% solution for my needs. Now extending the front axle with an SAS setup to get a better approach angle and bobbing the back of the frame for the departure angle, that is another question.
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- #105
It's funny you mention that, I have been considering those very tail lights to keep it oem, I bought the amazon ones because I figured the wiring would be similar for mocking up and getting it all figured. Your tray is looking good, can't wait to get started on mine!@kittric I'm also building an Aussie-style ute... but compared to your project, mine is closer in difficulty to installing new floor mats - starting with a Pickup. I kid you not - I've been on this board for 15 years and this is the first thread I've subscribed to. I am loving this build.
For the tail lights, I found new old stock FJ40 tail lights that were surprising cheap. They look as much at home on a trayback as they do on a 40... and they're Toyota! But, it wouldn't surprise me if you're making your own
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- #106
With all this talk of flat beds yesterday, I was anxious to get things figured out on how to do mine. I figure I am at a point that it would be good to start running parallel on my remaining tasks. So I walked around the back end a bunch with a tape measure and levels, took some notes on the amount and size of steel I wanted to get, along with the idea of if I should have a 6x6 flat bed or a 4x6 bed with flares. After all that, I decided the simplest solution was to go with a 6x6 bed and that it would probably be a good idea to do wooden mock-up first to see if I like the look of it. It will also be nice to see how it will work with the tire clearance, visibility, gas cap location, etc.
And with that I ran off to home depot to get 8 2x4 studs and 2 sheets of plywood. Hopefully spending $100 on material now will save me that and more on the project later!
And since I know it sucks to not see any new pictures if you are following a thread, here is an old photo underneath the chop area to show the relation to it and the location of body mounts holding the cab and future flatbed.
And a picture of how much space is in the cab now. Both seats are moved back all the way and then reclined until they are touching the back. Should be plenty comfy for any extended driving.
And with that I ran off to home depot to get 8 2x4 studs and 2 sheets of plywood. Hopefully spending $100 on material now will save me that and more on the project later!
And since I know it sucks to not see any new pictures if you are following a thread, here is an old photo underneath the chop area to show the relation to it and the location of body mounts holding the cab and future flatbed.
And a picture of how much space is in the cab now. Both seats are moved back all the way and then reclined until they are touching the back. Should be plenty comfy for any extended driving.
I am literally drooling over this project, well done so far! Those flat panels behind the windows are screaming for some old school 40 series emblems a la Heritage-edition 200 series!
When you were talking about the rear door wiring, my first thought was to add some sort of a bed light that would be triggered by the doors (either in a 3rd brake light or standalone) similar to an OEM. I know how many times I find that helpful when unloading at night, might be useful here too.
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- #109
I love that idea! Time to start looking on ebay for some!
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- #110
Another good idea! I was going to use the 2nd row switches to illuminate inside the my storage box between the seats, I should be able to easily run one set of wires into the headache rack.
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- #111
So last night put a wooden mock-up together and I think I am pretty happy with the general location of everything. I think the main structure of the bed will similarly simple when made out of steel. I will probably not have a lower cross member going over the spare tire as I would like to have the spare higher up.
I have 255/85/16 tires on this lc and really like the skinny 33.5" tire. My bumpstops have about 7.5" of clearance and the tire rub to bed distance is about 8". I might raise the bed up an additional 1/2 to 1 inch just in case I ever wanted to put 35's on though.
I think there is enough room to fabricate some sort of drawer type system to hold the spare up higher, especially if I raise the bed up a bit.
Maybe make a drawer that has 2 hand pulls on either side of license plate to pull out the spare tire? The back-end looks big, but I wanted to cover over the frame and ensure full wheel articulation. I am sure the final product will be different, but this gives me a good starting point.
Bases on the amount of scrap I had left over, it looks like 2- 4x8 sheets of sheet metal should pretty much get the bed done along with about 80' of square tube. It also looks like I got it lined up with the existing body lines pretty well, but we will have to get a better look from a distance. The mudflaps will be closer to the fender, I just screwed them into a handy piece of wood so I would be legal to take it for a spin.
Based on this mock-up, I think that a pretty good base can be made for the flat bed to add headache/ lumber racks, fenders, drawers, and maybe even some side boxes around the fender if I feel like getting fancy.
I have 255/85/16 tires on this lc and really like the skinny 33.5" tire. My bumpstops have about 7.5" of clearance and the tire rub to bed distance is about 8". I might raise the bed up an additional 1/2 to 1 inch just in case I ever wanted to put 35's on though.
I think there is enough room to fabricate some sort of drawer type system to hold the spare up higher, especially if I raise the bed up a bit.
Maybe make a drawer that has 2 hand pulls on either side of license plate to pull out the spare tire? The back-end looks big, but I wanted to cover over the frame and ensure full wheel articulation. I am sure the final product will be different, but this gives me a good starting point.
Bases on the amount of scrap I had left over, it looks like 2- 4x8 sheets of sheet metal should pretty much get the bed done along with about 80' of square tube. It also looks like I got it lined up with the existing body lines pretty well, but we will have to get a better look from a distance. The mudflaps will be closer to the fender, I just screwed them into a handy piece of wood so I would be legal to take it for a spin.
Based on this mock-up, I think that a pretty good base can be made for the flat bed to add headache/ lumber racks, fenders, drawers, and maybe even some side boxes around the fender if I feel like getting fancy.
hoser
SILVER Star
You might want a little more room to account for axle articulation. Best would be to take one rear spring off and articulate one side.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
If you move the spare up to the drawer are you going to rework the exhaust pipe/muffler since it looks like that would be the next lowest item?
Couple ideas to consider (or add to the hundreds of pics you've no doubt been going through online)...
- We moved the spare to the cab - sunk it into the bed about 10", offset to driver side, built a mount behind it (strap is temp) - both for visibility. Sure, it take up a bit of bed space, but it'll keep it from dragging and I can be moved if I need the space. Oh, and it looks cool (have a hub cap too).
- Cutout in the rear panel under the plate. There will be a receiver hitch in there - still leaving space to put a foot to jump up onto the deck.
- "Boat-tailed" the back corners to give the truck better departure angles. But does take a bit away from the space.
Pre-cardboard sketch...
I love the idea of sinking some drawers in the sides or the back panel behind the license plate.
- We moved the spare to the cab - sunk it into the bed about 10", offset to driver side, built a mount behind it (strap is temp) - both for visibility. Sure, it take up a bit of bed space, but it'll keep it from dragging and I can be moved if I need the space. Oh, and it looks cool (have a hub cap too).
- Cutout in the rear panel under the plate. There will be a receiver hitch in there - still leaving space to put a foot to jump up onto the deck.
- "Boat-tailed" the back corners to give the truck better departure angles. But does take a bit away from the space.
Pre-cardboard sketch...
I love the idea of sinking some drawers in the sides or the back panel behind the license plate.
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- Thread starter
- #116
I was looking at that, there seems to be plenty of room to move the muffler up and route the exhaust out the side or straight through the back wall of the flatbed.
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- #117
I have a very slight boat tail to match the curve of the back frame cross member. I do like the idea of putting the receiver hitch through (or bolted) to that cross member.
I was wonder why you had those 2 points coming down on the bumper, that makes sense now seeing the space for a foothold. I would probably have to put foot holds to the side of the drawer though. Glad you attached that photo now I have a better idea of the fj40 tail light dimensions!
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- #118
So just a little work last night to get things legal for a trip to the dump. Hooked up the tail lights to get the basics working, however I will have a fun time in the near future sorting through all the other wiring and getting things cleaned up and simplified.
Views of the ass end further out.
Looking from the side the bed slope appears just about right for matching the body lines.
And from the other angle.
It doesn't look like I will need any more parts that are left over from the back. So next week I will load up all the remaining scrap (leaning next to shed) and make a dump run so I can estimate how much weight was removed. After that I will give a brief summary of time spent to this point and upcoming schedule for the project.
Views of the ass end further out.
Looking from the side the bed slope appears just about right for matching the body lines.
And from the other angle.
It doesn't look like I will need any more parts that are left over from the back. So next week I will load up all the remaining scrap (leaning next to shed) and make a dump run so I can estimate how much weight was removed. After that I will give a brief summary of time spent to this point and upcoming schedule for the project.
