By the time it's all said and done, how many hours do you think you'll have into this?
I know the adage "if you have to ask.." but still curious
I know the adage "if you have to ask.." but still curious
100 Series Ute Conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kittric
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- #142
I am probably at about 130 hours now. With 1/2 of that just staring at the project trying to figure things out! Things seem to happen fast once you figure out what to do.
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- #143
Got back down from the mountains a little early yesterday, so I put a couple of hours in on the project. I decided to change up how I was going to lay the bed in. I figure it will take more steel reinforcement to support things if I run the lumber deck longitudinally. So I will just lay the deck in laterally and make a lip to support the ends.
I am thinking 2x6 pressure treated lumber will be used on the final product.
Also installed one more longitudinal row of steel midpoint to keep the span on the boards under 2 ft to limit deflection. Since I don't really plan on putting massive point loads in back of the truck the 2x6 boards should hold everything fine. It will also help out with minimizing the load on the steel edges over the fenders.
I am thinking 2x6 pressure treated lumber will be used on the final product.
Also installed one more longitudinal row of steel midpoint to keep the span on the boards under 2 ft to limit deflection. Since I don't really plan on putting massive point loads in back of the truck the 2x6 boards should hold everything fine. It will also help out with minimizing the load on the steel edges over the fenders.
Did you try out a sagulator (The Sagulator – WoodBin - https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) for the support spacing or to get an idea of how much it could hold?
Any plans to hold the board down or do they just sit in the channel?
Any plans to hold the board down or do they just sit in the channel?
Fwiw you may regret laying boards that way as you slide things into the bed every board edge will eventually catch/hang up on what ever you load in there - unless you plan to load from the side.
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- #146
Nice little web page, "sagulator" good naming! I think that it will be ok, last night I was actually standing on the steel rail above the tire with a board underneath. My 250 lbs didn't even cause the board to lift on the other end. So the lateral boards should be good between their inherent strength and the steel rail support.
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- #147
Yep, I went over the pros and cons of having the deck run that direction. Sliding things out the back fell into the cons category, but I think the benefits outweigh the detriments by a good margin and your right, I will probably be loading from the side a lot since it is a 6x6 bed.
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- #148
So last night started to figure out how to route the gas line. 1 3/8" ID fuel hose ended up being the right size. After jumping up to take this picture I realized how stiff the side rail was after putting all my weight on it with basically 0 deflection. I initially wanted the fuel cap closer to the drivers door, but the bends are a little aggressive. It would probably work out good on the passenger side (guessing it is designed more for right hand drive), but I really don't want the little arrow in the gas gauge pointing the wrong direction. Because of all this it seems that the best solution is to have it at the back (with the added benefit of being able to get a pump hose to the filler from either side!)
So I basically plan on having the back section divided into five zones or 5 separate pieces to build out. Tail lights on the outer triangles, then gas cap zone, license plate area/trailer light hookups and muffler area. That way if I cock up a piece it will be easier to redo.
The outer section lines up with the 6x6 support column so that the back corner fills in easier (if I end up going that route).
Not sure yet how I want to build the back bumper. Left a gap above the frame so I could slot underneath the flatbed if necessary. Might build some type of bumper integrated with the tow bar, that can be easily removed if I need the extra clearance (sort of C shaped so it slides over frame and rests in place prior to getting bolted on). Or just do something lighter with a pintle hook on the frame crossmember at existing holes.
The temp light that I got are probably going to be too big, so time to start thinking about other options!
So I basically plan on having the back section divided into five zones or 5 separate pieces to build out. Tail lights on the outer triangles, then gas cap zone, license plate area/trailer light hookups and muffler area. That way if I cock up a piece it will be easier to redo.
The outer section lines up with the 6x6 support column so that the back corner fills in easier (if I end up going that route).
Not sure yet how I want to build the back bumper. Left a gap above the frame so I could slot underneath the flatbed if necessary. Might build some type of bumper integrated with the tow bar, that can be easily removed if I need the extra clearance (sort of C shaped so it slides over frame and rests in place prior to getting bolted on). Or just do something lighter with a pintle hook on the frame crossmember at existing holes.
The temp light that I got are probably going to be too big, so time to start thinking about other options!
You seem pretty handy, so likely know this already, but pressure treated lumber warps like an s.o.b. if it's not attached every so often. If I were planning on using PT for my decking, I'd plan on attaching it everywhere I could. Lots and lots of self tappers into your framing, which means you'll then have water intrusion into your frame...Maybe some angle along some of your other frame members (or some sort of ledger) to give yourself more than just end attachment?
cedar or redwood
or use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
Trex Composite Decking Boards and Samples | Order Now
Discover high performance, low maintenance composite decking products from Trex. Shop our variety of decking options for creating your outdoor living oasis!
You can get 5/4 composite decking that might serve. not quite 2x4 nom, but darn close. Also, there are some tropical hardwood decking choices available that might serve. PT is such splinter-prone, toxic garbage these days. Seems waste to put it on such a deserving project.or use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
Trex Composite Decking Boards and Samples | Order Now
Discover high performance, low maintenance composite decking products from Trex. Shop our variety of decking options for creating your outdoor living oasis!shop.trex.com
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2014
- Messages
- 38
This is awesome! If you ever need a hand just holler, I live over on the west bench.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.or use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
Trex Composite Decking Boards and Samples | Order Now
Discover high performance, low maintenance composite decking products from Trex. Shop our variety of decking options for creating your outdoor living oasis!
I've been following this build since day one. The updates are always awesome and the whole project gives me an idea of what to do with my 100 when the back of the body rusts off 
Solid core composite decking is a popular alternative to wood bed floors in the 60-66 Chevy truck scene.
- Thread starter
- #157
Thanks for the heads up, I actually didn't realize pressure treated warped easy. I am only used to using for sill plates on a house during framing, so it is always held in good right away!
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- #158
Probably redwood will be my answer.
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- #159
I like the trex stuff, just wish it came in 1.5 inch thicknessor use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
Trex Composite Decking Boards and Samples | Order Now
Discover high performance, low maintenance composite decking products from Trex. Shop our variety of decking options for creating your outdoor living oasis!
- Thread starter
- #160
There used to be a specialty wood store in Eagle here that my brother picked up a bunch of Sapele for a rat rod bed. Maybe I will see if it is still around.
