100 Series Ute Conversion (1 Viewer)

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
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Gainesville, VA
By the time it's all said and done, how many hours do you think you'll have into this?
I know the adage "if you have to ask.." but still curious
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
Got back down from the mountains a little early yesterday, so I put a couple of hours in on the project. I decided to change up how I was going to lay the bed in. I figure it will take more steel reinforcement to support things if I run the lumber deck longitudinally. So I will just lay the deck in laterally and make a lip to support the ends.

IMG_20210228_1539331.jpg


I am thinking 2x6 pressure treated lumber will be used on the final product.

IMG_20210228_1539405.jpg


Also installed one more longitudinal row of steel midpoint to keep the span on the boards under 2 ft to limit deflection. Since I don't really plan on putting massive point loads in back of the truck the 2x6 boards should hold everything fine. It will also help out with minimizing the load on the steel edges over the fenders.

IMG_20210228_1703216.jpg
 

abuck99

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
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ATL
Got back down from the mountains a little early yesterday, so I put a couple of hours in on the project. I decided to change up how I was going to lay the bed in. I figure it will take more steel reinforcement to support things if I run the lumber deck longitudinally. So I will just lay the deck in laterally and make a lip to support the ends.

View attachment 2600331

I am thinking 2x6 pressure treated lumber will be used on the final product.

View attachment 2600332

Also installed one more longitudinal row of steel midpoint to keep the span on the boards under 2 ft to limit deflection. Since I don't really plan on putting massive point loads in back of the truck the 2x6 boards should hold everything fine. It will also help out with minimizing the load on the steel edges over the fenders.

View attachment 2600333
Fwiw you may regret laying boards that way as you slide things into the bed every board edge will eventually catch/hang up on what ever you load in there - unless you plan to load from the side.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
Did you try out a sagulator (The Sagulator – WoodBin - https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) for the support spacing or to get an idea of how much it could hold?
Any plans to hold the board down or do they just sit in the channel?

Nice little web page, "sagulator" good naming! I think that it will be ok, last night I was actually standing on the steel rail above the tire with a board underneath. My 250 lbs didn't even cause the board to lift on the other end. So the lateral boards should be good between their inherent strength and the steel rail support.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
Fwiw you may regret laying boards that way as you slide things into the bed every board edge will eventually catch/hang up on what ever you load in there - unless you plan to load from the side.
Yep, I went over the pros and cons of having the deck run that direction. Sliding things out the back fell into the cons category, but I think the benefits outweigh the detriments by a good margin and your right, I will probably be loading from the side a lot since it is a 6x6 bed.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
So last night started to figure out how to route the gas line. 1 3/8" ID fuel hose ended up being the right size. After jumping up to take this picture I realized how stiff the side rail was after putting all my weight on it with basically 0 deflection. I initially wanted the fuel cap closer to the drivers door, but the bends are a little aggressive. It would probably work out good on the passenger side (guessing it is designed more for right hand drive), but I really don't want the little arrow in the gas gauge pointing the wrong direction. Because of all this it seems that the best solution is to have it at the back (with the added benefit of being able to get a pump hose to the filler from either side!)

IMG_20210301_1753088.jpg


So I basically plan on having the back section divided into five zones or 5 separate pieces to build out. Tail lights on the outer triangles, then gas cap zone, license plate area/trailer light hookups and muffler area. That way if I cock up a piece it will be easier to redo.


IMG_20210301_1754211.jpg


The outer section lines up with the 6x6 support column so that the back corner fills in easier (if I end up going that route).

IMG_20210301_1754315.jpg


Not sure yet how I want to build the back bumper. Left a gap above the frame so I could slot underneath the flatbed if necessary. Might build some type of bumper integrated with the tow bar, that can be easily removed if I need the extra clearance (sort of C shaped so it slides over frame and rests in place prior to getting bolted on). Or just do something lighter with a pintle hook on the frame crossmember at existing holes.

IMG_20210301_1754547.jpg


The temp light that I got are probably going to be too big, so time to start thinking about other options!

IMG_20210301_1805408.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Messages
348
Location
Denver
Got back down from the mountains a little early yesterday, so I put a couple of hours in on the project. I decided to change up how I was going to lay the bed in. I figure it will take more steel reinforcement to support things if I run the lumber deck longitudinally. So I will just lay the deck in laterally and make a lip to support the ends.

View attachment 2600331

I am thinking 2x6 pressure treated lumber will be used on the final product.

View attachment 2600332

Also installed one more longitudinal row of steel midpoint to keep the span on the boards under 2 ft to limit deflection. Since I don't really plan on putting massive point loads in back of the truck the 2x6 boards should hold everything fine. It will also help out with minimizing the load on the steel edges over the fenders.

View attachment 2600333
You seem pretty handy, so likely know this already, but pressure treated lumber warps like an s.o.b. if it's not attached every so often. If I were planning on using PT for my decking, I'd plan on attaching it everywhere I could. Lots and lots of self tappers into your framing, which means you'll then have water intrusion into your frame...Maybe some angle along some of your other frame members (or some sort of ledger) to give yourself more than just end attachment?
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
209
Location
Azle, TX
You seem pretty handy, so likely know this already, but pressure treated lumber warps like an s.o.b. if it's not attached every so often. If I were planning on using PT for my decking, I'd plan on attaching it everywhere I could. Lots and lots of self tappers into your framing, which means you'll then have water intrusion into your frame...Maybe some angle along some of your other frame members (or some sort of ledger) to give yourself more than just end attachment?
cedar or redwood
 
Joined
Oct 21, 2018
Messages
348
Location
Denver
or use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
You can get 5/4 composite decking that might serve. not quite 2x4 nom, but darn close. Also, there are some tropical hardwood decking choices available that might serve. PT is such splinter-prone, toxic garbage these days. Seems waste to put it on such a deserving project.
 

Eyedaho

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 24, 2019
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699
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Boise, Idaho
or use Trex(or similar) composite deck boards and never have to replace or treat.
I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.
 

87warrior

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot
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Dec 14, 2015
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990
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Junction City, Kansas
I've been following this build since day one. The updates are always awesome and the whole project gives me an idea of what to do with my 100 when the back of the body rusts off :doh:

I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.
Solid core composite decking is a popular alternative to wood bed floors in the 60-66 Chevy truck scene.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
You seem pretty handy, so likely know this already, but pressure treated lumber warps like an s.o.b. if it's not attached every so often. If I were planning on using PT for my decking, I'd plan on attaching it everywhere I could. Lots and lots of self tappers into your framing, which means you'll then have water intrusion into your frame...Maybe some angle along some of your other frame members (or some sort of ledger) to give yourself more than just end attachment?
Thanks for the heads up, I actually didn't realize pressure treated warped easy. I am only used to using for sill plates on a house during framing, so it is always held in good right away!
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Eagle, ID
You can get 5/4 composite decking that might serve. not quite 2x4 nom, but darn close. Also, there are some tropical hardwood decking choices available that might serve. PT is such splinter-prone, toxic garbage these days. Seems waste to put it on such a deserving project.
There used to be a specialty wood store in Eagle here that my brother picked up a bunch of Sapele for a rat rod bed. Maybe I will see if it is still around.
 

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