100 Series Ute Conversion (10 Viewers)

Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
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Eagle, ID
Last night finished installing the headliner to get a better idea of what direction to go for the back wall and to start getting misc. pieces of interior out of my way. Since I have had some sound deadener laying around for a couple of years, it was nice to finally start putting it to use.

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I initially bought this stuff for a samurai project, but luckily after looking at how many pieces I have I should be able to cover the back wall also.

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I was thinking about doing a few different things for the headliner, but opted for the simplest solution of pulling the sunroof slider out of the sunroof assembly.

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Screwing everything together every 8-12 inches seems to hold everything together real well.

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After putting the headliner in I forgot something important to hold the front reading lamps in. Darn it!

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
Part of that console is held in place by the sunroof assembly. So it was time to go into the parts storage and get the piece.

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Nothing really to attach to here, so I planned on welding it to the front clips somehow. The front clip piece is held by 2 screws, and I don't know what kind of lock-tite is holding them in, but I could not get them out. I even used one of those driving screwdrivers that you hammer on the back to twist the really hard stuff out (and yes I had it turning the right way, I checked multiple times;)

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My plan B was using a 2 inch piece of flat stock wedged between the existing clip and sunroof lip as so. Somehow I had the perfect distance after the second cut to wedge it in with a nice tight fit, then I just put a couple of tack welds on for good measure.

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I drilled some holes 2 inches apart on the clip I needed and threaded a piece of 1" flat stock in 2 spots. This way I was able to sandwich these 2 pieces around the 2" wide piece and slide back and forth as needed to line up the clip holes.


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Worked out pretty slick, and now the front headliner is looking civilized again.

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
I at first planned on shaping some sheet metal and closing in the door jam by welding it in. Since that was going to be pain to get right, I opted for the lazy solution and just pushed the door seal back in place to use as a backer followed by a liberal coating of seam sealer.

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They are not kidding when they say use this in a well ventilated space. It was strong stuff. In hindsight I wish I kept the door seal on and just trimmed it at the top and bottom corner prior to "shutting the door forever". I could have pulled out the top and bottom section during welding in those areas and just tucked it back in and then followed up with some sealer to finalize it.

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I had done this previously, but here is a picture of the under seat heater removed. I plugged the hole through the floorboard with some sheet metal and glued it in when I did the sunroof. I also used a piece of foam about the height of the heater unit and added some carpet over it. I am sure that it will not be needed to keep the back warm any more, and it cleans up the coolant lines coming from the engine.

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
With that done, I decided it was time to put the back window in. A real pita to get in, but it was nice to have it done. I had already painted around the window seal area, so hopefully there will be no reason for me to pull it back out.

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I will be adding some type of tubing around the window seal to help pull up the outer lip next

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From the front it looks like it actually belongs there.

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abuck99

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
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4,486
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ATL
I had done this previously, but here is a picture of the under seat heater removed. I plugged the hole through the floorboard with some sheet metal and glued it in when I did the sunroof. I also used a piece of foam about the height of the heater unit and added some carpet over it. I am sure that it will not be needed to keep the back warm any more, and it cleans up the coolant lines coming from the engine.

View attachment 2553901

No more heater T's!
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
Not to much done last night. I finished up with the seam sealer. It took 1 tube to do both doors and another tube for the back area.

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After that started adding some more sound deadener.

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I am not sure if I will still use the rear speakers. If so I will be cleaning up the wiring harnesses that went into the back door and figuring out if I want to keep any other functions from it, like the door lamp. Looks like there will be bit of puzzling around with it first!

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
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Eagle, ID
For some reason I thought my company had MLK day off, but it looks like I am in the office, so might as well post an update. I separated the door wiring harness into the parts I needed. Two speaker wires, 2 door light wires, and 2 mystery wires that I still need to research, I cut the ends and kept them somewhat accessible behind the door trim in case I need to get to them for some reason in the future. They are probably for the door locks or something, but I just wanted to keep them handy since they were attached to 1 of the 2 total wire connectors I was keeping (I got rid of the blue connectors that appeared mostly for the power windows).

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Through out the project I kept about an extra foot of the floor carpet attached because I might end up running it up the back wall. At this point I realized that I would be fighting it to make it look right, so I just trimmed at the flat part. I wish this was done sooner because it was constantly in my way!

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I was also messing around with the idea of trimming the back door card to somehow incorporate the door speaker grill. After looking at everything and assuming that the seats are going to cover that area real well I will make some type of panel to cover over the back door and probably carpet it.

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It will most likely also be incorporated into some type of storage box behind the seats that I can mount the speakers to.

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I also ran the 2 main wiring harnesses out the vent holes so they are easy access to determine what needs to be kept before cleaning them up and repackaging in the back of the cab.

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
Since I was shifting focus to wiring for the back end, I decided to turn the truck around in the shop and do some house keeping yesterday. Here are some views of what things are currently looking like in the daylight.

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So sitting in the car I have plenty of room and the visibility is amazing. I am 6-4, 240lbs and this length of cab has the perfect amount of space for me to move the seat back all the way and recline it enough where my arm is straight out locked to hold the steering wheel. Here are 2 shots with me holding the camera at my eye and shooting over my right shoulder, then leaning a little to the right and shooting over my left shoulder.

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
73
Location
Eagle, ID
I ordered up some cheap tail lights off of amazon to try and get the rear light situation figured out. Got everything working that I needed by using one of the plugs on each side. The wiring harness basically loops around the back and connects both sides. A ground wire had to be connected from the driver side harness to the passenger side harness in order for the brake/signal lights to work on passenger side. I still need to find the reverse and licence plate lights, so it is time for some research on the forums.

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The back harness that loops around with the ground wire is laying on the impact gun.

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The one wire I need from the other side to make the passenger side tail lamps work!

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The fuel pump control is the only thing that needs to be grounded out for the vehicle to start and run normally in the back runs of the 2 wiring harnesses. At least I didn't have to chase anything else down in order to move the car when needed.

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With the passenger seat in I am starting to get an idea for how to fill in behind the seats. Looks like a pretty good spot for some type of storage box with an easy access door that lifts up between the seat backs, to me.

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ktmracer01

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Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
651
Location
PNW
For some reason I thought my company had MLK day off, but it looks like I am in the office, so might as well post an update. I separated the door wiring harness into the parts I needed. Two speaker wires, 2 door light wires, and 2 mystery wires that I still need to research, I cut the ends and kept them somewhat accessible behind the door trim in case I need to get to them for some reason in the future. They are probably for the door locks or something, but I just wanted to keep them handy since they were attached to 1 of the 2 total wire connectors I was keeping (I got rid of the blue connectors that appeared mostly for the power windows).

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If you're referring to the "Purple" and "White" wires in the photo, those are most likely for tweaters that are usually installed in the plastic triangular trim piece that covers the mirror hardware.
 

abuck99

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Nov 8, 2015
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4,486
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ATL
Any consideration given to extending the frame before finalizing your rear tray design?
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
2,239
Location
Atlanta
@kittric I'm also building an Aussie-style ute... but compared to your project, mine (cab) is closer in difficulty to installing new floor mats - starting with a Pickup. I kid you not - I've been on this board for 15 years and this is the first thread I've subscribed to. I am loving this build.

For the tail lights, I found new old stock FJ40 tail lights that were surprising cheap. They look as much at home on a trayback as they do on a 40... and they're Toyota! But, it wouldn't surprise me if you're making your own ;)

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