Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
- Apr 16, 2019
amazing fabricationHere's a cool thread on a flatbed build (for a mini truck) that may give you some ideas as you build out the back end:
The Fab Shop - Toyospearo's FLATBED build... - My original idea was to have a shop build a flatbed that I designed. I had a rough idea of what I was after. I wanted the flat bed to accentuate the look of the 94 ext. cab body. Rather than the bed just sitting there like a flatbed, I wanted it to...www.yotatech.com
Not really, the frame is so beefy and beautiful, I would hate to cut it in half (unlike the cab, haha). I figure a 6 ft bed and lumber rack is a 99% solution for my needs. Now extending the front axle with an SAS setup to get a better approach angle and bobbing the back of the frame for the departure angle, that is another question.Any consideration given to extending the frame before finalizing your rear tray design?
It's funny you mention that, I have been considering those very tail lights to keep it oem, I bought the amazon ones because I figured the wiring would be similar for mocking up and getting it all figured. Your tray is looking good, can't wait to get started on mine!@kittric I'm also building an Aussie-style ute... but compared to your project, mine is closer in difficulty to installing new floor mats - starting with a Pickup. I kid you not - I've been on this board for 15 years and this is the first thread I've subscribed to. I am loving this build.
For the tail lights, I found new old stock FJ40 tail lights that were surprising cheap. They look as much at home on a trayback as they do on a 40... and they're Toyota! But, it wouldn't surprise me if you're making your own
Another good idea! I was going to use the 2nd row switches to illuminate inside the my storage box between the seats, I should be able to easily run one set of wires into the headache rack.When you were talking about the rear door wiring, my first thought was to add some sort of a bed light that would be triggered by the doors (either in a 3rd brake light or standalone) similar to an OEM. I know how many times I find that helpful when unloading at night, might be useful here too.
You might want a little more room to account for axle articulation. Best would be to take one rear spring off and articulate one side.I have 255/85/16 tires on this lc and really like the skinny 33.5" tire. My bumpstops have about 7.5" of clearance and the tire rub to bed distance is about 8". I might raise the bed up an additional 1/2 to 1 inch just in case I ever wanted to put 35's on though.
I was looking at that, there seems to be plenty of room to move the muffler up and route the exhaust out the side or straight through the back wall of the flatbed.If you move the spare up to the drawer are you going to rework the exhaust pipe/muffler since it looks like that would be the next lowest item?
I have a very slight boat tail to match the curve of the back frame cross member. I do like the idea of putting the receiver hitch through (or bolted) to that cross member.Couple ideas to consider (or add to the hundreds of pics you've no doubt been going through online)...
- We moved the spare to the cab - sunk it into the bed about 10", offset to driver side, built a mount behind it (strap is temp) - both for visibility. Sure, it take up a bit of bed space, but it'll keep it from dragging and I can be moved if I need the space. Oh, and it looks cool (have a hub cap too).
- Cutout in the rear panel under the plate. There will be a receiver hitch in there - still leaving space to put a foot to jump up onto the deck.
- "Boat-tailed" the back corners to give the truck better departure angles. But does take a bit away from the space.
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I love the idea of sinking some drawers in the sides or the back panel behind the license plate.