100 Series Ute Conversion (1 Viewer)

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Jul 18, 2011
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So yesterday afternoon realized I was running short of cut off wheels, so a bit limited on what I could do (used all my left overs down to the last bit though!)

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Started filling in the back, and without planning it, the 3 middle sections were each 16" wide. This worked out well since I was lacking thin discs at the moment!

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I am probably going to have to rework the gas cap area as I don't really like how it sits and I am not to sure how filling up is going to work with the limited slope on the fill line to tank. I figure that I will set everything up for this location and see how it works. If it works well maybe set up a collar and shield over the cap so I don't accidentally shear it off. I also couldn't remember how the vent line was oriented before. I am guessing it was at about 2:00. If anyone knows otherwise let me know!

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The ass end looks a little saggy with the tow bar in place (granted it isn't bolted up all the way).

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So I found were the pintle hook was hiding. Since I am running short on time (house is closing in less than 6 weeks) I plan on just putting the pintle hook on and incorporating a step/ back plate with it. That should work until I get moved and have the time to figure out a more permanent solution for a rear bumper. Also if someone rear ends me, they have to go through the pintle hook first!

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Would using 1/8 or so steel diamond plate be prohibitively expensive?

A little bit, I priced it out at about 600 sheet. I think that I would prefer wood anyway just to help minimize noise and keep things lighter maybe. My dad has an old trailer with diamond plate deck, that I may cut into if I later decide to go that route. It is under a bunch of snow right now though.
 
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Would using 1/8 or so steel diamond plate be prohibitively expensive
A little bit, I priced it out at about 600 sheet. I think that I would prefer wood anyway just to help minimize noise and keep things lighter maybe. My dad has an old trailer with diamond plate deck, that I may cut into if I later decide to go that route. It is under a bunch of snow right now though.

Yea, $600 is a lot. I hadn't thought about noise. Makes sense.
 
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I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.

I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.
I still have those 3 ceiling vents if you want to come grab them sometime. They might end up in the garbage when I move so don't let them go to waste.
 
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Would using 1/8 or so steel diamond plate be prohibitively expensive?

Like @kittric, I went back and forth on materials, i.e. wood (cedar, TP, etc.) and eventually landed on 1/8" steel. There's no perfect or definitive answer here - each has its pros and cons. We ran the calcs on the weight, and the all-steel bed is damn close (maybe lighter) than the factory bed. I am leaning toward wood slats for the fold-down/removable sides though.

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... headache rack and receiver hitch/cross-member are next... then powder
 
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Like @kittric, I went back and forth on materials, i.e. wood (cedar, TP, etc.) and eventually landed on 1/8" steel. There's no perfect or definitive answer here - each has its pros and cons. We ran the calcs on the weight, and the all-steel bed is damn close (maybe lighter) than the factory bed. I am leaning toward wood slats for the fold-down/removable sides though.

View attachment 2602115

View attachment 2602116
... headache rack and receiver hitch/cross-member are next... then powder
How the hell did you get the only "pickup" tag in the state of Georgia? I can't believe it hasn't been used before on the millions of trucks in our state.
 
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Oct 21, 2018
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Denver
I have zero data on hand to back this up, but don't composite decking materials deflect pretty easily? Like 12" OC? Seems sub optimal for a truck bed.
Compared to wood, yes. But you could go thicker to compensate. I wouldn’t use big box store decking for example. But a specialty lumber store might give more substantial options. This is a conundrum many have encountered. PT, these days, is a shorter term option. Alternatives will last longer, give better service, but require some research.
 
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Like @kittric, I went back and forth on materials, i.e. wood (cedar, TP, etc.) and eventually landed on 1/8" steel. There's no perfect or definitive answer here - each has its pros and cons. We ran the calcs on the weight, and the all-steel bed is damn close (maybe lighter) than the factory bed. I am leaning toward wood slats for the fold-down/removable sides though.

View attachment 2602115

View attachment 2602161
... headache rack and receiver hitch/cross-member are next... then powder
My son would give his left nut for that rig.
 
Joined
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Like @kittric, I went back and forth on materials, i.e. wood (cedar, TP, etc.) and eventually landed on 1/8" steel. There's no perfect or definitive answer here - each has its pros and cons. We ran the calcs on the weight, and the all-steel bed is damn close (maybe lighter) than the factory bed. I am leaning toward wood slats for the fold-down/removable sides though.


... headache rack and receiver hitch/cross-member are next... then powder
That bed is looking nice! It also looks strong enough to bump into some trees without any problems!
 
Joined
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That bed is looking nice! It also looks strong enough to bump into some trees without any problems!
That was a design criteria - pivot on a tree and come out unscathed. I do anticipate adding some strips... something to deck to add some traction. Can you imagine standing on that deck on hill... in muddy boots.

I still think I'd prefer the ride in your version of the Toyota Trayback ;)
 
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Got some more consumables during lunch yesterday. I never got or saw thin wheels in a can before, thought they were pretty neat and worth a picture!

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Now that I had some cutting discs started to cut into an old gas tank off of a burma mule my dad has. This material looks thick enough for my rear hoop base plate and probably some gusseting for the front hoop.

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And once I got the rear hoop tacked into place on the new base plates, sure enough the gas ran out on my welder. Oh well I was starting to lose track of tools anyway, so I pulled Franky out of the shop and started tidying things up for another push.

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The lumber rack is already getting some use keeping the 10' sections of steel out of my way!

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Everything lined up really well between the front and rear hoops, The back left side is off a little bit if you look real close, but it won't be noticeable enough for me to cut and reweld. Besides after I fully weld everything maybe the distortions will get it lined back up. One can always hope anyway!

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D21FJ60

I'll get to it
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I stand by my claim that this is fantastic.
Maybe I missed it but how are you going to access the spare tire drop down? Or are you relocating it to the bed?
 
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I stand by my claim that this is fantastic.
Maybe I missed it but how are you going to access the spare tire drop down? Or are you relocating it to the bed?
It was moved up and in the final position now. I will have to guide the lowering rod in from the side now. I was thinking of putting a tube at this spot big enough to hold an axe handle. That way I could push an axe in handle first and clip it in for storage and pull it out when needed. Might also do something similar in the front section for other tools also.
 
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Just a little progress yesterday. Picked up some Argon/CO2 and started drilling out the mounts for the rear hoop. Unfortunately, my step drill is worn at one of the steps and I couldn't get the holes large enough to weld a sleeve in for the mounting holes.

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So I moved on to getting the bed welded up in all the hard to reach spots by taking it off. I was almost able to take it off without the shop crane, but it came off easy enough being only attached at 10 bolts (4 body mounts, 4 at rear frame, and 2 for the muffler). Then it was time to start laying in some beads. Got the topside done, and will wait until tomorrow to flip it over.

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