bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Axles are approximately 2" longer. The 100 knuckle is likely forged, so it is strong and easy to weld to.
100 Series IFS Long Travel Thread
- Thread starter Newps
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I can vouch for the quality of the steel in the 100 Spindle. I have made a trailer axle made from a set of spindles. 3 1/2" pipe has an OD of 88.9mm or something close which fits nicely into the recess where the CV seal presses in. I welded this at this point and has proven too be very good so far.
I will take some photo's tomorrow.
Obviously I cut all the redundant bits off but kept the brake mounts. Pretty robust trailer axle.
I will take some photo's tomorrow.
Obviously I cut all the redundant bits off but kept the brake mounts. Pretty robust trailer axle.
Took a few photo's.
Sorry about the trailer phot's but you get the idea.
It has been sandblasted under there and hit with cheap black to stop it rusting.
A/C plate mounts off the alternator and power steering mounting bolts. It is a 2UZ pump as well.
Sorry about the trailer phot's but you get the idea.
It has been sandblasted under there and hit with cheap black to stop it rusting.
A/C plate mounts off the alternator and power steering mounting bolts. It is a 2UZ pump as well.
What if you don't want to go full long travel, but would love the performance gains of a coilover front end versus the TB? Could you fit a set of those upper buckets in the photo, throw some upper arms, and maybe gain 2" of travel keeping the stock CV's happy? I would love to stuff a set of ICONs up front and ditch the bouncy OME shocks and Torsions.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
That's basically what this kit is. They are calling it "long travel" but they haven't extended the CV axles, the lowers are basically accomplishing the same kinematics as the OEM lowers (Longer lowers would increase track and require longer axles, which they have confirmed is not the case)... so in my eyes, this kit is only "long travel" in name, not in function... which is a bummer
You would essentially be gaining some travel I would assume, maybe not incredible long travel numbers but an increase over factory. What are they selling this kit for? It looks like a game changer for the 100 crews who are pretty much locked into OME torsion bars for most setups. Has it been tested on a real world rig yet? I would love to hear about performance gains on and off road.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Where would the travel be gained? Specifically. Because I am trying to address your assumptions here. Go back a few pages in this thread and you will see it discussed. Without extended axles, the full droop location is identical to factory (same as with an OME lift). Without increasing the track width (extending the LCA's and the CV's) you can't get any more down travel. The down travel is limited by the angle of the CV's (which is why all these lifts come with a diff drop, to reduce the cv angles)... this "long travel" kit does not move the diff any lower... this kit hasn't changed any of the roadblocks the 100 series has, just uses coil overs which would give you a smoother ride... no increase in articulation
OK, it's been a while. I do have half a front chassis on my bench.
Apologies for the slow response team. This little project has always been on my mind but it has been on the back burner because of other s*** (life).
Also me breaking the news that i want to spend more money on my Cruiser to the wife! 3" coil overs and bypass shocks!!
On a side note I have the Icon 2.5" and they are pretty good. The best I have had so far. OME, Tough Dog and Fox all pale into significance.
Anyway any questions?
Interesting there is only 1 degree variance between full droop and full compression in travel. (roughly measured via degree gauge).
Also, the top ball joint is the binding factor at both limits without any stoppers, i.e, bumpstops (compression) and shock (full extension). Also the steering stop also seems to be a factor at full droop.
So it is on my bench, I'm thinking at this point to leave the lower and upper pivots as there are, just extended arms and new spindles.
I am looking into whether there front spindle off a 105 series has the same spacing as the 100, this would make spindle fabrication easier, i.e, bolt on as opposed to weld on.
So if anyone can answer that question it would be good.
I have removed all bushes from the other side arms to measure.
I have cut off the shock mount from the chassis. Pretty sure this will be quite an easy process with a plasma, I did it pretty roughly with an angle grinder.
OK, I'm still here and having a crack at this.
Cheers
Apologies for the slow response team. This little project has always been on my mind but it has been on the back burner because of other s*** (life).
Also me breaking the news that i want to spend more money on my Cruiser to the wife! 3" coil overs and bypass shocks!!
On a side note I have the Icon 2.5" and they are pretty good. The best I have had so far. OME, Tough Dog and Fox all pale into significance.
Anyway any questions?
Interesting there is only 1 degree variance between full droop and full compression in travel. (roughly measured via degree gauge).
Also, the top ball joint is the binding factor at both limits without any stoppers, i.e, bumpstops (compression) and shock (full extension). Also the steering stop also seems to be a factor at full droop.
So it is on my bench, I'm thinking at this point to leave the lower and upper pivots as there are, just extended arms and new spindles.
I am looking into whether there front spindle off a 105 series has the same spacing as the 100, this would make spindle fabrication easier, i.e, bolt on as opposed to weld on.
So if anyone can answer that question it would be good.
I have removed all bushes from the other side arms to measure.
I have cut off the shock mount from the chassis. Pretty sure this will be quite an easy process with a plasma, I did it pretty roughly with an angle grinder.
OK, I'm still here and having a crack at this.
Cheers
Yes, I have a few projects on the bench.
A while back I hit a few big hits real hard and I bent a few things, well mainly the lower spindle where the pin goes through. So this is the weak point. (Point to note, beer, sandhills and superchargers should not be mixed)!
I also cut the lower ball joint apart and the ball is 35mm OD.
A while back I hit a few big hits real hard and I bent a few things, well mainly the lower spindle where the pin goes through. So this is the weak point. (Point to note, beer, sandhills and superchargers should not be mixed)!
I also cut the lower ball joint apart and the ball is 35mm OD.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Can you elaborate a bit on where the stock spindle bent?
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I believe something like that would far exceed the average persons budget when it comes to building their truck. It looks very cool and functional, and I’d love to see how the suspension cycles. But that setup is being run on a $150k+ trophy truck...I’m sure that entire suspension system would cost more than the resale value of any 100 Series.
Picture attached below of where it bent. Basically bent the taper down which through out the caster.
I had a play yesterday and made a frame for my chassis cut. A few observations.
1. The down travel is firstly constrained by the upper ball joint.
2. The upper ball joint is the constraint on upper travel.
3. The upper ball joint has 40 degrees of movement.
4. The suspension can move more than the steering stop is capable of handling. It binds on full lock before you bind on the upper ball joint.
5. The lower arm (without spindle attached) extends further until the rear of the rear arm hits the diff drop cross member.
My project has probably changed scope a bit now, I cannot justify fabricating a new spindle so will look to strengthen the OEM.
I have had upper Uniball control arms and hated the squeaking and constant need for lubrication.
So Scope is as follows.
1. Utilise the factory mounts.
2. Place 200 series adjuster bolts into the front lower chassis mount.
3. Move the wheel forward 40mm to better accomodate the move to 37".
4. New Upper Control Arms. Factory bushes and possibly utilising the lower ball joint. Extended to to accomodate utilisation of a factory available shaft. I need to research this one to see what is available. The movement of the wheel forward will centralise the ball joint and correct contact issues with larger tyres on full lock.
5. New Lower Control Arms with a larger ball joint (Have sent 555 an email to see what is available). Strengthening of the ball joint material and narrowing the shape similar to modern arms. This will create room on the spindle for strengthening.
6. Strengthen the spindle.
All in all we should see a far more cheaper overall cost with a fair bit more travel, coilovers and stronger.
I had a play yesterday and made a frame for my chassis cut. A few observations.
1. The down travel is firstly constrained by the upper ball joint.
2. The upper ball joint is the constraint on upper travel.
3. The upper ball joint has 40 degrees of movement.
4. The suspension can move more than the steering stop is capable of handling. It binds on full lock before you bind on the upper ball joint.
5. The lower arm (without spindle attached) extends further until the rear of the rear arm hits the diff drop cross member.
My project has probably changed scope a bit now, I cannot justify fabricating a new spindle so will look to strengthen the OEM.
I have had upper Uniball control arms and hated the squeaking and constant need for lubrication.
So Scope is as follows.
1. Utilise the factory mounts.
2. Place 200 series adjuster bolts into the front lower chassis mount.
3. Move the wheel forward 40mm to better accomodate the move to 37".
4. New Upper Control Arms. Factory bushes and possibly utilising the lower ball joint. Extended to to accomodate utilisation of a factory available shaft. I need to research this one to see what is available. The movement of the wheel forward will centralise the ball joint and correct contact issues with larger tyres on full lock.
5. New Lower Control Arms with a larger ball joint (Have sent 555 an email to see what is available). Strengthening of the ball joint material and narrowing the shape similar to modern arms. This will create room on the spindle for strengthening.
6. Strengthen the spindle.
All in all we should see a far more cheaper overall cost with a fair bit more travel, coilovers and stronger.
“3. Move wheel forward 40mm”
1. Is this just for the LCA? Can that be done without also moving the UCA forward an equal amount, or is that already possible w/ factory adjustments?
2. How far will the CV’s allow you to move the controls arms forward before binding?
3. Can the diff be moved forward any?
I really look forward to your
progress
1. Is this just for the LCA? Can that be done without also moving the UCA forward an equal amount, or is that already possible w/ factory adjustments?
2. How far will the CV’s allow you to move the controls arms forward before binding?
3. Can the diff be moved forward any?
I really look forward to your
progress
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Got it, thanks.
200 Series/Tundra have a 40mm ball and the shank taper will drop right into the 100 spindle. The after market 555 Joints do not have the same range of motion as factory, a bit less.
200 Series/Tundra have a 40mm ball and the shank taper will drop right into the 100 spindle. The after market 555 Joints do not have the same range of motion as factory, a bit less.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
This kind of UCA is utilizing a heim joint in the lateral position set up in a double shear configuration. Super strong and the heim joint being in that orientation removes the heim as a limiter of travel. However, with the joint in that rotation your steering angle suffers, so does the steering performance. So it’s not really good for anything but a fast desert prerunner. Also it requires a completely custom spindle (the heim joint actually sits in the spindle) so basically you only see this configuration in one-off front ends.
