100 Series IFS Long Travel Thread (1 Viewer)

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There were the Russians a few years ago who were doing the coilover set up - there was a thread on here about it.
I'd love to see a bolt on solution to use the 200 series suspension on a 100, but I doubt it will happen.
 
Found this on YouTube. Not sure if it's the same Russians.
 
I had two inch spacers on my 98 UZJ100 with 35" tires, so technically speaking with stock offset wheels you could build a +2 length set of arms. Anyone who has spent anytime around longtravel knows that significant travel almost always mean rebuilding shock towers to accomodate longer shocks. As for the comments about the torsion bar relocation and frame strength etc... take a look at all of the coilover conversions being done on the HD IFS GM trucks. I had my 08 dmax side by side with my 98 LC and the difference was laughable. The LC was beefier in almost all aspects.

I'm hoping to build a stout midtravel rig with my next 100 series. My biggest concern is the CV's. I'm not sure how much angle they can handle before binding. Does anyone know what the spline count and axle shaft dimensions are at the cv? I'm curious if there is any interchangeable alternative out there.

I'll echo what so many have said already. It isn't that the LC longtravel is not possible, it's that it's not a feasible business investment due to the low production numbers. That beings said I can't think of a longtravel toyota I'd rather have over a UZJ100....
 
I suspect LC200 and 2007+ Tundra axles shafts will fit the 100 Series CV joints. These parts are all on my shelf, I need to pull them apart and compare.
OK, lets get this started again.
So I just swapped a half complete 8274 for the front half of a 100.So I have chassis, spindles, arms and hubs.
So I am going to have a crack at this. I just installed a set of 2.5"Icons from Darren at Autocraft which total amaze me, I had FOX before but these things are awesome. Anyway, this was what got me thinking, if this was a huge improvement, what would a full on Ultra 4 type set up be like.
Presently I am thinking
  • Bolt on lower bracket that picks up all the current mounting holes and straightens up the lower pivots so they are parallel to the ground like a 200, FJ etc. The 100 is compromised because of the angle of the torsion bar. So this will increase lift straight off the back. I will keep this to a minimum but it will lift. (You could go as far as you want but it is not my goal)
  • Spindle, Machine a circle at the rear of the spindle to suit a pipe section that will fit over the CV. Weld pipe and basically build a spindle around the existing. This must be cast steel as it welds very well, I have converted 100 spindles into a trailer axle and it has broken yet!! So 1.5 Uni BAlls top and bottom in double shear mounted vertically. I am not fully over the measurements but there is opportunity for lift here (The gap currently between the CV and the Ball Joint is pretty big). Also with spindles, fabricated double shear Rod end steer connection, slightly raised to correct angle steering joints which kills our rack ends.
  • Fabricated Lower and Upper arms. Probably only 50mm. Matching this increase to an axle from saw a 200/Tundra would be nive. Would love to know what the length of these are Brian. If anyone wants to donate there old ones???
  • Coilover Mount. So I have 2 options here, cut the top off the current shock mount and fabricate a dedicated top to suit a ICON Coilover (I'm in love with them, what can i say). Make a bypass shock mount to the rear. Or keep the current shock mount and mount the coilover to the rear. Now this is not as silly as it sounds as the chassis area at the rear pivot is strong as the torsion bar force all hangs off the rear lower. So making a mount that wraps the chassis lower section could be worth exploring.
So this is a long term plan, you know a man needs his projects. I have a few things on the go with the Cruiser already. First and foremost is to install the Supercharger I have sitting on my bench!

Would love to here thoughts and get some input around suggested materials for arms, axle length and the best Uniballs to use.
 
Cool.
Shaft length will determine arm length.
Couple of other thought,
Move wheel forward to accommodate 37"
 
Another issue here is the diff drop. So presently the Front Diff cant go any lower than currently available kits because it will hit the chassis where the cross member bolts on (Pumpkin Side).You would only need to remove a small amount to lower it further.
 
Me and my friends are planning to go to spain this month. We would love to see some nice beaches with clear water and some stunning scenery. We were thinking Majorca,Ibiza and Canary Island, we are up to some adventures and experience a great nightlife in our travel. I came across this great article too here in https://www.canaryislandsinfo.co.uk/la-gomera/places/ but i wanted to hear your thoughts first. Can anyone suggest any ideas or tips? Any help is kindly appreciated :)
Okay... And this has to do with long travel IFS how???
Ohh, I see now! Long Travel!!! Long Travel IFS equates to Long Travel to Spain!!
Silly me...
 
Okay... And this has to do with long travel IFS how???
Ohh, I see now! Long Travel!!! Long Travel IFS equates to Long Travel to Spain!!
Silly me...
I'm thoroughly impressed with your analysis. But for real... let's see this kit in action!
 
I think the recent post was just...

51x8v4PT47L._UL1500_.jpg
 
I think the recent post was just...

View attachment 1618005
Give a break, I got sick . Ross River Virus to be exact. So I have my 100 front cut chassis sitiing on the floor in my garage. I did manage to find the below. Only coilovers but a nice upper mount.
On a side note, I have just finished fitting my Bullet Supercharger, 4.88 diffs and factory rear locker. So not like haven't been busy.
Going on a trip in June then I will have the chassis on the bench and away we can go.

IMG_1066.JPG
 
Fxxx man thats awesome!, dont forget to show footage of this thing chewing up the trails. KING!
 
OK, lets get this started again.
So I just swapped a half complete 8274 for the front half of a 100.So I have chassis, spindles, arms and hubs.
So I am going to have a crack at this. I just installed a set of 2.5"Icons from Darren at Autocraft which total amaze me, I had FOX before but these things are awesome. Anyway, this was what got me thinking, if this was a huge improvement, what would a full on Ultra 4 type set up be like.
Presently I am thinking
  • Bolt on lower bracket that picks up all the current mounting holes and straightens up the lower pivots so they are parallel to the ground like a 200, FJ etc. The 100 is compromised because of the angle of the torsion bar. So this will increase lift straight off the back. I will keep this to a minimum but it will lift. (You could go as far as you want but it is not my goal)
  • Spindle, Machine a circle at the rear of the spindle to suit a pipe section that will fit over the CV. Weld pipe and basically build a spindle around the existing. This must be cast steel as it welds very well, I have converted 100 spindles into a trailer axle and it has broken yet!! So 1.5 Uni BAlls top and bottom in double shear mounted vertically. I am not fully over the measurements but there is opportunity for lift here (The gap currently between the CV and the Ball Joint is pretty big). Also with spindles, fabricated double shear Rod end steer connection, slightly raised to correct angle steering joints which kills our rack ends.
  • Fabricated Lower and Upper arms. Probably only 50mm. Matching this increase to an axle from saw a 200/Tundra would be nive. Would love to know what the length of these are Brian. If anyone wants to donate there old ones???
  • Coilover Mount. So I have 2 options here, cut the top off the current shock mount and fabricate a dedicated top to suit a ICON Coilover (I'm in love with them, what can i say). Make a bypass shock mount to the rear. Or keep the current shock mount and mount the coilover to the rear. Now this is not as silly as it sounds as the chassis area at the rear pivot is strong as the torsion bar force all hangs off the rear lower. So making a mount that wraps the chassis lower section could be worth exploring.
So this is a long term plan, you know a man needs his projects. I have a few things on the go with the Cruiser already. First and foremost is to install the Supercharger I have sitting on my bench!

Would love to here thoughts and get some input around suggested materials for arms, axle length and the best Uniballs to use.

Cast? Doesn't seem like the best choice to me. I'd want something a little more ductile. Weld-ability seems like a strange reason to insist on cast over another type of steel. We aren't dealing with exotic materials here.
 

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