100 Series Button Repair How-To - A/C, Defrost, Recirc etc (1 Viewer)

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Yep. That's all there is to it. I was going to pay this guy on ebay to solder all new switches on, but I thought I would take a chance on rebooting them. I think I provided the link to them on overstock earlier in this thread. It's going to drive you nuts at first but I promise the new ones will go back in there. I might take it apart again since I just noticed one other button not working right. If I do I will take some pictures. Maybe even do a video....
Thanks again for your insights and sharing. I’m going to tackle it in a couple weeks. Pls post pics/video if you jump in there again. High five!
These forums are priceless.
 
Guys, there’s no need to buy new boots or solder new contacts. The problem lies in the conductive carbon paint that is inside the boot that presses against the contacts upon pressing the button.

I just bought some circuit board conductive paint like this:

Amazon product ASIN B01MQ4F1T5
I repainted the black contact point inside the boot, let it dry for 24 hours, reinstalled and the buttons perform like new. No need to solder or any of that nonsense.
 
Guys, there’s no need to buy new boots or solder new contacts. The problem lies in the conductive carbon paint that is inside the boot that presses against the contacts upon pressing the button.

I just bought some circuit board conductive paint like this:

Amazon product ASIN B01MQ4F1T5
I repainted the black contact point inside the boot, let it dry for 24 hours, reinstalled and the buttons perform like new. No need to solder or any of that nonsense.

You are correct that problem lies in the conductive paint inside the boot. Replacement boots (and sacrificial switches) are $9 for 5. Regardless, whether you re-paint the contact or reboot, you still have to remove the boot which requires re-seating the boot. That's the pain in the ass part of this. Regardless, both methods work and are a hell of a lot easier (for most of us) than soldering on new switches.
 
What are some tips/tools/techniques to help get the boots back on? I really need to tackle this project and want to be as prepared as I can be.
 
What are some tips/tools/techniques to help get the boots back on? I really need to tackle this project and want to be as prepared as I can be.
I just used a metal pick, my fingers and maybe a jewelers flat head screwdriver? I’d get a plastic pick though as it will have less chance of damaging the boots. One thing I also did was if I had a button that was shot already I practiced on that one first. Then you kind of get a feel for it.
 
@shtbrwn86 must have the patience of a saint and fine motor control like no other, because after trying to put the boot back on the first button for about 30 minutes, I am ready to burn down the button, the HVAC controls and the whole damned truck!

What are some tips/tools/techniques to help get the boots back on? I really need to tackle this project and want to be as prepared as I can be.

I just used a metal pick, my fingers and maybe a jewelers flat head screwdriver? I’d get a plastic pick though as it will have less chance of damaging the boots. One thing I also did was if I had a button that was shot already I practiced on that one first. Then you kind of get a feel for it.
 
@shtbrwn86 must have the patience of a saint and fine motor control like no other, because after trying to put the boot back on the first button for about 30 minutes, I am ready to burn down the button, the HVAC controls and the whole damned truck!

My wife would disagree with both of those assertions! 🤣
 
You need a dental explorer, or a better, a scaler, which is curved, for cleaning teeth. The shape of these tools is super-helpful in re-seating the boots. Ask your dental hygienist for some old/dull/worn tools, the next time you have your teeth cleaned. Often, they will give them to you, if the tools aren't in a loaner program.

I got to where I could peel back a boot (leaving part of it attached), clean the surface with alcohol and a Q-tip, and reseat the boot in under 60 seconds. Some took a bit longer. But, a dull screwdriver won't cut it for getting the boots back in place.

Alas, when I was all done, my rear defroster no longer works, so I will be ordering the Overstock switches and snitching a boot from one of those and using on my '99.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

EDIT: after cleaning all the switches, the rear defroster didn't work, so I ordered switches from Overstock, and swapped the rubber 'hat' last night. Works perfectly - wish I had done a few others! Swapping the 'hat' took about 60 seconds.

IMG_0286.jpg


IMG_0376.jpg
 
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You need a dental explorer, or a better, a scaler, which is curved, for cleaning teeth. The shape of these tools is super-helpful in re-seating the boots. Ask your dental hygienist for some old/dull/worn tools, the next time you have your teeth cleaned. Often, they will give them to you, if the tools aren't in a loaner program.

I got to where I could peel back a boot (leaving part of it attached), clean the surface with alcohol and a Q-tip, and reseat the boot in under 60 seconds. Some took a bit longer. But, a dull screwdriver won't cut it for getting the boots back in place.

Alas, when I was all done, my rear defroster no longer works, so I will be ordering the Overstock switches and snitching a boot from one of those and using on my '99.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

EDIT: after cleaning all the switches, the rear defroster didn't work, so I ordered switches from Overstock, and swapped the rubber 'hat' last night. Works perfectly - wish I had done a few others! Swapping the 'hat' took about 60 seconds.

View attachment 3261449

View attachment 3261450
Nice! I have two more rubber hats and three switches acting up. Need to order another 5 switches!
 
I have my order scheduled to ship soon. So there are contacts on the underside of the rubber boots that are worn and that's what's causing the malfunction?
 
I have my order scheduled to ship soon. So there are contacts on the underside of the rubber boots that are worn and that's what's causing the malfunction?

Yup! Basically the underside of the rubber boot has a conductive black material that when pressed down completes the switch circuit.
 
Great success!!

I did it this morning. Took about an hour. I took a pic of the tools i purchased a while back from harbor freight and they came in very handy. I used an 11mm socket to remove the nuts from the AC knobs.

IMG_1134 (Small).jpg
 
I worked on my this last weekend. I chose to clean and repaint the blue covers with the conductive paint shown above. It works incredibly well.
 
Insane idea: could I replace the buttons with momentary toggle switches? Easier to use, more direct feedback...
If you are asking for opinions, I’d say that would be a downgrade and hurt resale value. It would actually be more work to convert to toggle switches.
 
If you are asking for opinions, I’d say that would be a downgrade and hurt resale value. It would actually be more work to convert to toggle switches.
agreed. More trouble than it's worth.
 
I probably should have listed this first, but here is some info on replacement switches:

  • The existing switches are ~5.2mm tall with lead spacing of ~5mm. This lead spacing works out to a very common size for thru hole components which is 0.200", there are many options on digikey, newark etc
  • The height is very critical for the buttons to work correctly, i found that a switch with a height of 5mm works perfectly such as the one below
  • I like the feel of a tactile switch that actually clicks when you push it which is why i went with this over the original switches
  • Note that the switches you need are normally open momentary switches, i.e. when you push the switch down it makes contact until you release it, at which point it opens the switch again. The latching logic is handled in the microcontroller on the PCB
  • These switches were $0.16 each the last time i looked on Newark FYI
https://www.newark.com/alcoswitch-t...t/switch-tactile-spst-50ma-through/dp/14H0928
View attachment 1856749
View attachment 1856750
View attachment 1856751

  • Comparison of old and new switches
View attachment 1856755
View attachment 1856756
Thanks much for the writeup. Bought these switches (and the ~$50 desoldering iron) from Newark and performed last night on my LX. Patience is key with removing the wiring harnesses without breaking them, but all else went smoothly. About 2.5 hours work.
 
Bringing topic back up.. Does anyone have link to buttons with rubber cups which I can use? One link above points to UK eBay and they wouldn't ship to US, another link points to Overstock which doesn't seem to work either..

I can resolder, but I'd rather keep it stock
 

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