100 Series Button Repair How-To - A/C, Defrost, Recirc etc (3 Viewers)

[shtbrwn86]

Just wanted to add to this as I hadn't seen where anyone had just replaced the whole button. Having done a previous and short lived repair (in which I found fighting the little boots on and off to be ridiculous) I was back to reading the updates from this thread. I see everyone is still replacing the boots from new buttons. I decided the hell with that. I bought the new buttons and soldered them in. I picked up these uxcell 20Pcs 8mmx8mm Panel PCB Silica Gel Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 2 Pin DIP. First tests they work perfectly and no ****ing around with the stupid little boots. On the lower row that has the little plastic guides around the button I had to round off the corners of the square buttons, which took a few minutes. All in all, de-soldering and re-soldering probably took me an hour to an hour and a half.
View attachment 3562024

Sweet. I thought about doing that but I don’t have the soldering skills to do this. I bet they work better and last longer when you just replace the whole switch.

 

[aging fleet]

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this, I did the rubber button swap on my defrost and rear air switches and they're good as new. Super nice to be able to turn the rear air on again.

 

[gil12]

Finally did the button top replacement. SeattleLC 's post (#95) was very helpful. I found that watching his video over and over while I poked the little rascals was indispensable. I found it best to exactly copy his movements.
That said, I wish I was more comfortable soldering.

 

[bluesquirrel]

Does anyone know the part number(s) for the rotary switches behind the control knobs?

 

[achris]

Seems it could be a chronic issue, my 99 is having the same symptoms. Defrosts and rear AC. Pain in the ass! Have to hit the switches 3-5 times for them to activate at times. Wonder if it’s the same issue for the center lock...?

I know I'm late to the party (as usual).. Just want to reply because this topic has helped me out.

To the OP, thank you. My LC had the same problem, as did a friend of mine. Yesterday he was over for me to help fit a new headunit (Vhedia MT-1918, really nice unit!). I said that while we have the console apart I'll do the switches. I'm an electronics tech and former computer hardware engineer, so the board-level repair isn't intimidating. Job went very smoothly. This morning I did the same on my own vehicle, and just the same, simple and smooth (took all of 30 minutes). I was able to delete a few steps, like removing the knobs. If you unplug the knob circuit board plugs on the main board you don't need to remove the knobs or the switch/pot nuts either.

Onto the issue with the central locking of the post I'm replying to... That's a completely different job, but still very simple. The issue is that the tiny motor inside the lock module has given its all. The brushes are worn out. I've seen a few suggest that you can 'refurb the motor... You can't, its done. I had that issue with the passenger's door.

Toyota have used several different motors over the years (because, Toyota ), so I ordered one of each so I wasn't going to be caught with the whole door mech apart and no parts to fit. The motors are all of about $25 ea ('Straya), so having a couple of wrong motors isn't a biggie. It is a fiddly job, and you do need to 'break' into the module to access the motor, but there are plenty of YT videos on doing the job. I did mine yesterday, and it's as good as new now. Good luck.

Chris.....

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Somewhat related to this thread.. Does anyone know how to remove the plastic buttons themselves from the bezel? I'd like to swap out my old yellowing ones for fresh ones but cant see how they are being retained in the board.