semlin
curmudgeon
torque is 51 ft/lb so simply tightening it as hard as you can using a wrench without a cheater bar is going to be pretty close. it is definitely a lot easier with a hole though.
10 Minute Rear Shock Install
- Thread starter TheRhino
- Start date
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torque is 51 ft/lb so simply tightening it as hard as you can using a wrench without a cheater bar is going to be pretty close. it is definitely a lot easier with a hole though.
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
does the passenger hole had the same 6" x 4" measurement as the driver side?
Yes sir.
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
Thank you sir
View attachment 1136315
Did mine today ,was able to sit under and did not take long
Only tools I used for the top
Did mine today ,was able to sit under and did not take long
Last edited:
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
Looks like a ton of room to be seated comfortably
I wanted to share my experience based on the info on this thread. On my 98 LX, the dimensions were a little different:. It definitely made the job super easy!
Driver side:
About 4 inches to the rear from the front tie-in loop and about 4 inches towards the middle of the vehicle.
Passender side: 3 inches back, 5 inches in
Passender side:
Driver side:
About 4 inches to the rear from the front tie-in loop and about 4 inches towards the middle of the vehicle.
Passender side: 3 inches back, 5 inches in
Passender side:
I just did mine yesterday with the stink bug method pictured above, using a standard 22mm box wrench and a pair of channel locks. Took about 1.5hrs. Considered drilling the hole but it was unnecessary for me once I got a 2nd box wrench on the end for more leverage. Now I know why everyone's drilling an access hole - that top nut location sucks and I can't imagine doing it with rust involved!
tpatrickmc
SILVER Star
@highonpottery - What do you mean by stink bug? Also - you felt OK about being able to tighten new shocks sufficiently? I'm planning my install and debating what to do...
Just cut the holes in mine and they match up perfect. The top nuts on my shocks are so rusty 
I have come to think that these shocks have never been changed. I put my breaker bar on and the whole shock turned. I dowsed them in oil over night since they are very rusty.
I was wondering how everyone was keeping the shock from spinning when using a breaker bar?
Where do you guys place the vice grips?
I have come to think that these shocks have never been changed. I put my breaker bar on and the whole shock turned. I dowsed them in oil over night since they are very rusty. I was wondering how everyone was keeping the shock from spinning when using a breaker bar?
Where do you guys place the vice grips?
I used a belt wrench like Marius pictured above.
You're replacing the shock, no need to keep it in good shape, do what you have to do to make it not spin.
My first choice would be to hit it with penetrating oil for a few days.
Edit: I think I wedged a wrench on the nut, then spun the shock when I did it.
You're replacing the shock, no need to keep it in good shape, do what you have to do to make it not spin.
My first choice would be to hit it with penetrating oil for a few days.
Edit: I think I wedged a wrench on the nut, then spun the shock when I did it.
Just cut the holes in mine and they match up perfect. The top nuts on my shocks are so rusty
I was wondering how everyone was keeping the shock from spinning when using a breaker bar?
Where do you guys place the vice grips?
Same with mine. I gave up and end up using reciprocating saw to cut the shocks into two piece.
If you have cut the holes, and have an impact wrench using that should be enough speed & torque to spin the top nut off with out spinning the shock. This method worked for me.
I had more challenge getting an accurate torque setting as there was no viable way to hold the top pin and also torque from the top at the same time. I ended up having an extra set of hands holding the pin from above while I tightened with open wrench from underneath- and visually Checking the squish of the dampners.
Cutting the holes isn't necessary to get the job done, but it makes a few steps a little easier.
If you are looking for body panel plugs for the freshly drilled holes you can go here: Rubber Parts Body / Sheet Metal Plugs - from RubberTheRightWay.com
I had more challenge getting an accurate torque setting as there was no viable way to hold the top pin and also torque from the top at the same time. I ended up having an extra set of hands holding the pin from above while I tightened with open wrench from underneath- and visually Checking the squish of the dampners.
Cutting the holes isn't necessary to get the job done, but it makes a few steps a little easier.
If you are looking for body panel plugs for the freshly drilled holes you can go here: Rubber Parts Body / Sheet Metal Plugs - from RubberTheRightWay.com
Eek, I hate seeing so many folks cut into the sheet metal for this job. Unless you have a lot of rust it just isn't necessary.
Not sure if I posted this in this thread before, but here's some info on how I did it on two hundys: YotaMD.com - Toyota - UZJ100 Land Cruiser - Rear Shocks
If you do cut into the metal on the floor it needs some very careful treatment to prevent a new rust origin. It needs to be sanded and sealed/painted.
Not sure if I posted this in this thread before, but here's some info on how I did it on two hundys: YotaMD.com - Toyota - UZJ100 Land Cruiser - Rear Shocks
If you do cut into the metal on the floor it needs some very careful treatment to prevent a new rust origin. It needs to be sanded and sealed/painted.
"Stinkbug" = using ramps on rear. Take out spare and you can sit underneath rig for easy tool use.
For torque I simply judged it by hand on the rear shocks. Once they seated, the rubber bushing kept mine still with what I approximate was 50lbs. Can't exactly get a torque wrench on that shock mount unless you cut the hole.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
the body panels are Swiss cheese from the factory already, chock full of access holes. Hit the edges of the new hole with primer and drive on. It's not like the rear is some pristine, watertight tub like an M416 or something. There's other holes there already.Great info contained in this thread.
Completed the new shock/spring instal over the weekend using the holesaw method.
Didn't do any measuring, just eyed the pictures in this thread and drilled the second rib in from the side and bingo - straight above the top nut!
From there it was a relatively easy instal.
Getting the springs out was a little more challenging as had to drop the diff a loooong way down for them to become loose enough to remove. Pretty much had the rotor shields touching the ground - oh for a hoist!!
New shocks and springs have given me an inch extra in height which will prob settle a bit in the coming months.
Thanks again for the great info.
Now to the front rotors and bearings...
Completed the new shock/spring instal over the weekend using the holesaw method.
Didn't do any measuring, just eyed the pictures in this thread and drilled the second rib in from the side and bingo - straight above the top nut!
From there it was a relatively easy instal.
Getting the springs out was a little more challenging as had to drop the diff a loooong way down for them to become loose enough to remove. Pretty much had the rotor shields touching the ground - oh for a hoist!!
New shocks and springs have given me an inch extra in height which will prob settle a bit in the coming months.
Thanks again for the great info.
Now to the front rotors and bearings...
Just completed my rear shock installation using this method, started out doing it the regular way. .nah...first side took about 45 minutes, double checking everything. Ds, about 15 minutes. ..too easy! On to the pics, notice my ds shock, bent shaft and wore down considerably! Thanks for the pics and info!
