10 Minute Rear Shock Install (3 Viewers)

[TheRhino]

I received my Slee 2.5" kit last week and installed the front shocks, torsions, and diff drop.
I've been procrastinating on the rear because I've read what a "PITA" they are to install.
I messed with the top nut on the rear drivers side for about 15 minutes and quickly got frustrated.
I thought, there's got to be a better way.
Bingo! Go at if from the TOP.
What do I mean......drill a 1-1/2 hole in the floor directly above the upper nut.
It works like a charm.
I had to drill a couple of small test holes to determine the exact location.
You will need a deep socket 22mm to reach the nut.
You can actually use your other hand to hold the upper part of the shock to keep it from turning at the same time your loosening the nut. I used a pair of channel locks to hold the upper part of the shock while using a breaker bar inside.
I plan to plug the hole with a rubber grommet from the hardware store.
If anyone is interested, I will get the exact dimension for the hole.
I will post photos later.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Sounds good. MIke

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Make sure and paint the edges of your new hole.

 

[Elijah]

I'd never do that, I didn't think the rear shocks were THAT hard to change though.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I received my Slee 2.5" kit last week and installed the front shocks, torsions, and diff drop.
I've been procrastinating on the rear because I've read what a "PITA" they are to install.
I messed with the top nut on the rear drivers side for about 15 minutes and quickly got frustrated.
I thought, there's got to be a better way.
Bingo! Go at if from the TOP.
What do I mean......drill a 1-1/2 hole in the floor directly above the upper nut.
It works like a charm.
I had to drill a couple of small test holes to determine the exact location.
You will need a deep socket 22mm to reach the nut.
You can actually use your other hand to hold the upper part of the shock to keep it from turning at the same time your loosening the nut. I used a pair of channel locks to hold the upper part of the shock while using a breaker bar inside.
I plan to plug the hole with a rubber grommet from the hardware store.
If anyone is interested, I will get the exact dimension for the hole.
I will post photos later.

Im very interested in measurements and pictures.
I have no problem drilling the holes providing you find a good source for plugs. Were you lucky enough to have a flat area to drill the needed holes?

 

[OursSauvage]

Nor do I... maybe easier, but a hole is a hole.
Off course, rust may not be a hudge issue in Texas.

@ Elijah
I change my front Shocks when doing rotor and bearing but don't had time to do the rear... left the LC at a Local shop who accept to do that while I go see a customer... when I came 2 hours later, nothing was done... two heavy he said, he want to keep the LC longer, take harness around apart and heat the nut

 

[2000UZJ]

I'd never do that, I didn't think the rear shocks were THAT hard to change though.

yeah, they were a small pain in getting tools up there, but otherwise it's pretty straight forward. I have no rust, so getting the OEM ones off was a piece of cake.

I slipped a old socket over the Bilstein shock and used a locking wrench over the socket and spun the shock as much as a could... no problems since.


After I found out that method it would be a breeze to swap rear shocks, just getting everything in place is the hard part...

 

[TheRhino]

Im very interested in measurements and pictures.
I have no problem drilling the holes providing you find a good source for plugs. Were you lucky enough to have a flat area to drill the needed holes?

The area is flat and easy to cut.
I will get dimensions and post photos

 

[TheRhino]

Nor do I... maybe easier, but a hole is a hole.
Off course, rust may not be a hudge issue in Texas.

@ Elijah
I change my front Shocks when doing rotor and bearing but don't had time to do the rear... left the LC at a Local shop who accept to do that while I go see a customer... when I came 2 hours later, nothing was done... two heavy he said, he want to keep the LC longer, take harness around apart and heat the nut

Actually in Texas its' nice having holes in your truck.....helps keep the air circulating in summer

 

[TheRhino]

Pics

Here are the photos of access holes

 

[Topmounter]

Holy shocking shock removal holes Batman!

 

[TheRhino]

Here are the photos of access holes

Just looking at things from a different perspective.

 

[nball]

Great idea. This is like something I would do. Git'er done.

 

[Anthony.L]

Wow, now that is a good idea right there!

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

I think it's a pretty brilliant idea and I don't like body damage, scratches, etc. I'd just have to talk myself into it.

Perhaps, you could provide a set of measurements from fixed reference points so that we may triangulate the hole.

 

[wildsmith]

A 40mm body lift also gives easy access

 

[EdsCruisin]

x2 on the measurements and plug size. I am ready for the suspension project, but this one issue has been a big part of the hold up. I was thinking about doing exactly the same thing, but now that you have, I don't have to experiment.

 

[spressomon]

Might as well fab a nice shock tower and throw some 12-14" travel Fox shocks back there . Seriously...good idea. I thought about it but it takes an inordinate amount of time to remove my AO drawers...which is what drove me to relocate the top and bottom shock mounts altogether.

 

[davegonz]

Great idea. You could easily fabricate a metal cover for that if you can't find plastic plugs.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Guys, getting to the rear shocks is not bad enough to drill a hole in the floor. A gear wrench makes things very easy, but it can be done with a normal open end too.