10 Minute Rear Shock Install

[Mike NXP]

Maybe I lucked out but I was able to remove the top nut from under the vehicle with ease. Moved the wiring out of the way and turn by turn it worked out well. Swapped the shock out in a few minutes. I also tend to flush the dirt and road crud from up there often so that may have helped with getting the top nut off.

 

[JLink]

I couldn’t get mine loose with a wrench and strap wrench. The shock would still spin, so I did the hole saw method. Worked great. I used these and some rv silicone sealant to close up the holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076FFXP4Q?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

 

[JLink]

I continue to be amazed...

I guess you’ve never worked on a truck with rust. And in my case, no matter what I did, the shock would still spin. And 2 1.5” holes that are now primed and sealed up, is not a big deal.

 

[DuckLN]

Daddy always said it wasnt a real date unless you came home with some rust on your hands but that was when we were workin on a 1974 cherokee chief jeep product. Neither of my two cruisers have any rust - arkansas has humidity that makes us talk slow but it doesnt breed rust.

 

[bdobyns]

Debating on the hole in the floor vs on the ground on jack stands with the tire removed. I was first trying to access the bolt on my back in front of the rear dif, there was no way, things were tight. Was about to cut some holes, moved my storage, pulled the carpet back, but saw the pic with truck on ramps and accessing from behind the rear dif, what a difference. I had sprayed the top nut last week and gave it a little extra juice. The drivers side came out with no issue other than lots of 1/8 or 1/4 turns. The passenger side was a bit more difficult only because I had rerouted the exhaust to come out the side behind the rear tire, no resonator, and I just cut the SOB, on the underside, through the rubber. Took me about an hour. Now, I may have been lied to, but I was quoted from two different shops that to replace all of the shocks was an $800 job. Now, this is California, which seems to be suffering from a lack of brain cells in Sacramento, but to replace all shocks in an hour and half, four bolts, I just told my bride that I should be making $600 an hour.

Tools needed--
7/8" for the top nut
3/4" for the flattened out are to stop shock from spinning
17mm for the bottom nut
Sawzall with metal blade

IMO faster to cut the damn thing out than try to get a wrench on it, wrenches are for tightening.

 

[Keowee]

After soaking the top nuts for a couple of days with PB-Blaster
I used a chain strap wrench from harbor freight and an extra long flexhead ratchet wrench.

The chain wrench holds the shock with no slipping.
The extra long wrench gives enough leverage to loosen the nut.

 

[RustInPeace]

Im getting ready for my ahc delete and ironman foamcell pro install next weekend. Started with the penetrating spray already this weekend but not hopeful given condition that i'll be able to get them off 22 yr old vehicle that's never had the shocks removed before.

For those who cut the holes -> does the 1.5 inch hole give sufficient access from the top to also loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the hydraulic saddle down?

 

[uHu]

For those who cut the holes -> does the 1.5 inch hole give sufficient access from the top to also loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold the hydraulic saddle down?

I cut a 65 mm hole, and could get a pipe wrench on each of the 12 mm heads, but ended up grinding them off because they were rusted solid. Used the tip of an "air-file", a mini belt sander. Would have worked with a dremel. First, I drilled a pilot hole from below, to make sure I hit the right spot. Used the same cover which is used for several holes in the floor to cover up, part # 90950-01924, which is 65 or 66 mm. Had a 64 mm hole saw in my kit, which worked well, with a tiny bit of grinding to fit the cover. Looks factory, next to another such cover.

 

[bdobyns]

I still think that just cutting the dang thing is super easy and fast, no new holes, unless you want to save worn out shocks.

 

[uHu]

I still think that just cutting the dang thing is super easy and fast, no new holes, unless you want to save worn out shocks.

The problem is if you have ahc, and you want to save that hydraulic connection. With the rust in addition, and the fragile cables and pipes running next to that shock top, it seems like a safer way with an easy access hole. There are like 5 in the area from before, so what's another 2, with the exact same cover?

 

[GVegasG]

I was going to make the holes but just decided not to bother. It took some time to remove and install but wasn’t that bad.
I put the rear on the ramps and removed the spare.