What a great hack. If anyone is concerned about drilling access holes in the bed, there are several factory access holes for other bolts there already. Why didn't factory make another one for shocks?
10 Minute Rear Shock Install (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TheRhino
- Start date
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I decided to give it a try without making the hole. It did take some time and effort but it was not that bad.
The key for success was to remove the spare tire and make sure to get 22mm flexible head ratchet action spanner nut wrench.
Once the car was on the ramps and spare was removed, there was enough room to do this while sitting down on the creeper.
The key for success was to remove the spare tire and make sure to get 22mm flexible head ratchet action spanner nut wrench.
Once the car was on the ramps and spare was removed, there was enough room to do this while sitting down on the creeper.
Rather than messing around with different tools or holes, I just took a sawzall through both and had the rears out and new ones in, in about half an hour (and that's me taking my time).
I mentioned this - you can buy a 22 mm flex head ratcheting wrench delivered for under $20 - and make quick work of the rear shock removal. And you dont have to remove the spare or cut a hole.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Is this the same for the AHC shocks in terms of access and difficulty ?
I think it’s even worse since the hydraulic line is there too by the top shock nut.
This is a great idea. I wish I had thought of cutting a hole. I had to cut out my. Rear shocks with a grinder. They appeared to be original and had been on the truck for more than 250k in California.
I continue to be amazed...
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
If you weld a rod to a socket and bend the rod a little, you have a perfect shock nut tool
I drilled out 2 inch holes. Once you see those friggin nuts from the top, it's a happy day. Worth it.
Got the DS shock off by myself, but I'm gonna have to get my wife to hold the strap wrench on the passenger side. I figure I'll finish up the rear end tomorrow morning.
Got the DS shock off by myself, but I'm gonna have to get my wife to hold the strap wrench on the passenger side. I figure I'll finish up the rear end tomorrow morning.
Ace sells metal plugs, I drilled my 73 f350 metal to put a shoulder harness on the seat belt. The plug poped in and made it clean looking
After using the great information from this board for many years I decided to offer my experience removing and replacing the front and rear shocks on my 2003 Land Cruiser. I’ve owned my beloved Cruiser since summer 2007 and probably will never sell it. I’ve got a 1995 Range Rover Classic that I’ve had nearly twenty years and it’s not going anywhere either. I still regret selling my 1965 Ford Mustang forty years ago as a teenager!
Anyway, I purchased a new set of Genuine Toyota Front and Rear shocks a few weeks ago and decided to visit this board for any extra info – I’ve got the FSM and except for the possibility of rusted nuts (sorry!) things didn’t sound very difficult. I put Bilsteins on my Rangie several years ago and lost the soft ride of OEM, so I went with Genuine Toyota dampers for the Cruiser.
So last weekend I raised the front of the truck and removed the wheels. With a little penetrating fluid, a 22mm ratcheting wrench, and a socket and ratchet for the bottom I removed and replaced the both of the front shocks before the second AC/DC cd completed. I’ve used dear old Bon and the boys for working on vehicles and working out since I was a teenager – they keep my energy level high!
After lowering the front I decided I’d give the rear a try. I removed the spare. As is mentioned in this thread, there is lot more room with the spare out of the way. I’m 6’2” and 225 but I was able to move around under the rear without putting the vehicle on ramps or jacking the rear. I sprayed penetrating fluid on the top of the left rear shock threads and put the 22mm ratcheting wrench over the nut. After some coaxing and cursing, the entire shock moved. I grabbed a large pipe wrench to hold the shock while attempting to untighten the top nut. No movement except the ratcheting wrench kept slipping off of the nut. A few busted knuckles later I decided to spray fluid again on the top nut of both shocks and return to the computer and back to this thread. I got in the back of the truck and pulled up the carpet. For a moment I thought about boring the 1 ½” holes that several people had success with. Near the end of the thread it was mentioned that using a flexible 22mm ratcheting wrench had worked well without boring any holes. I ordered the flexible wrench and a pair of large jaw vice grips to hold the shock.
So a week later (today) I’m back under the rear of the truck. I popped in the AC/DC High Voltage cd into the player. I crawled under the truck and with the 22mm flexible ratcheting wrench and large jaw vice grips I was able to remove the tops nuts with ease. For me it’s so rare when a repair job goes exactly as planned. I was able to remove and replace both rear shocks before the second cd (Dirty Deeds) completed. Thanks for all of the helpful reading gentlemen!
Anyway, I purchased a new set of Genuine Toyota Front and Rear shocks a few weeks ago and decided to visit this board for any extra info – I’ve got the FSM and except for the possibility of rusted nuts (sorry!) things didn’t sound very difficult. I put Bilsteins on my Rangie several years ago and lost the soft ride of OEM, so I went with Genuine Toyota dampers for the Cruiser.
So last weekend I raised the front of the truck and removed the wheels. With a little penetrating fluid, a 22mm ratcheting wrench, and a socket and ratchet for the bottom I removed and replaced the both of the front shocks before the second AC/DC cd completed. I’ve used dear old Bon and the boys for working on vehicles and working out since I was a teenager – they keep my energy level high!
After lowering the front I decided I’d give the rear a try. I removed the spare. As is mentioned in this thread, there is lot more room with the spare out of the way. I’m 6’2” and 225 but I was able to move around under the rear without putting the vehicle on ramps or jacking the rear. I sprayed penetrating fluid on the top of the left rear shock threads and put the 22mm ratcheting wrench over the nut. After some coaxing and cursing, the entire shock moved. I grabbed a large pipe wrench to hold the shock while attempting to untighten the top nut. No movement except the ratcheting wrench kept slipping off of the nut. A few busted knuckles later I decided to spray fluid again on the top nut of both shocks and return to the computer and back to this thread. I got in the back of the truck and pulled up the carpet. For a moment I thought about boring the 1 ½” holes that several people had success with. Near the end of the thread it was mentioned that using a flexible 22mm ratcheting wrench had worked well without boring any holes. I ordered the flexible wrench and a pair of large jaw vice grips to hold the shock.
So a week later (today) I’m back under the rear of the truck. I popped in the AC/DC High Voltage cd into the player. I crawled under the truck and with the 22mm flexible ratcheting wrench and large jaw vice grips I was able to remove the tops nuts with ease. For me it’s so rare when a repair job goes exactly as planned. I was able to remove and replace both rear shocks before the second cd (Dirty Deeds) completed. Thanks for all of the helpful reading gentlemen!
This is brilliant... Any long term issues that anyone has encountered?
