- Thread starter
- #21
What's the fun in doing it the same old way....this is a journey not a destination.
10 Minute Rear Shock Install
- Thread starter TheRhino
- Start date
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
When someone saws through a harness or fuel line, that's the adventure.
It's not impossible, it's just a pain in the ass. There seems to have not been any consideration for ease of servicing in regards to the rear shocks.
I think a benefit to it, especially in rust prone areas, is the ability to use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point box wrench. 12 points have a nasty habit of rounding off stuck nuts and bolts (for me anyway
)Edit: you could probably source a decent plug from Toyota if the hole is the same size as the ones in the rockers or at the top of the body mount bolts etc
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Funny. Topoguide and I were just talking about this last night as he was doing his rear shocks. To the naysayers, take out your carpet and look around. There's already several holes in your rear floor with plugs. There's a pretty large one near the center towards the back. If you sized the shock hole correctly, you could just use the OEM plug over the shocks. I will probably go this way in the near future. If you rust coat the edges of the new hole, I'm having a hard time seeing a down side to this method. It also allows you to actually torque the top nut correctly (pretty minor benefit).
Thanks for the write-up and pictures
- I like the "think outside the box" feel of this.
- Looks like a good solution to a PITA problem.
- A little sheet metal change that is not visible when reassembled strikes me as no big deal.
- I'm sure C-dan can source us a good body plug.
Disposable socket with Lock wrench attached sounds good too!
WHITE-PLASTIC--PLUG-1.5-INCH--SHOCK-ACCESS-HOLES-/6037/282-960.html
Note: Rhino's pics are of the left side looking back from the second row doors.
- I like the "think outside the box" feel of this.
- Looks like a good solution to a PITA problem.
- A little sheet metal change that is not visible when reassembled strikes me as no big deal.
- I'm sure C-dan can source us a good body plug.
Disposable socket with Lock wrench attached sounds good too!
WHITE-PLASTIC--PLUG-1.5-INCH--SHOCK-ACCESS-HOLES-/6037/282-960.html
Note: Rhino's pics are of the left side looking back from the second row doors.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
These look perfect.
Thanks for the link. I've tried several plugs but these look like a perfect match.
- I like the "think outside the box" feel of this.
- Looks like a good solution to a PITA problem.
- A little sheet metal change that is not visible when reassembled strikes me as no big deal.
- I'm sure C-dan can source us a good body plug.
Disposable socket with Lock wrench attached sounds good too!
WHITE-PLASTIC--PLUG-1.5-INCH--SHOCK-ACCESS-HOLES-/6037/282-960.html[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the link. I've tried several plugs but these look like a perfect match.
- I like the "think outside the box" feel of this.
- Looks like a good solution to a PITA problem.
- A little sheet metal change that is not visible when reassembled strikes me as no big deal.
- I'm sure C-dan can source us a good body plug.
Disposable socket with Lock wrench attached sounds good too!
WHITE-PLASTIC--PLUG-1.5-INCH--SHOCK-ACCESS-HOLES-/6037/282-960.html[/QUOTE]
Did I miss the measurements somewhere?
- Thread starter
- #29
Sorry for not posting the dimension yet.
Got busy on my other project...(building a 50'x40' barn to restore a vintage 1974 27' Airstream).
Will post the dimensions tonight.
Got busy on my other project...(building a 50'x40' barn to restore a vintage 1974 27' Airstream).
Will post the dimensions tonight.
WOW you are busy!
Just didn't want to miss the measurements
Thanks in advance for posting
i am absolutely doing this....i hated changing my shock out the first time. It sucked, sucked bad. NE trucks are not always fun to work on.
- Thread starter
- #32
Measurements
OK, I got the measurements I used for the 1-1/2" holes I drilled to access the top nuts on the rear shocks.
Measure 4" from the center of the bolt head on the tie down towards the rear of the vehicle and 6" over from the outside of the vehicle (See the photos in my previous post).
This will be the center of the hole. I suggest drilling a small pilot hole and placing a flashlight over the hole to ensure you are properly positioned.
You can look between the wheel well cover and see the top nut. The light stream will make it obvious is you are in the correct location.
OK, I got the measurements I used for the 1-1/2" holes I drilled to access the top nuts on the rear shocks.
Measure 4" from the center of the bolt head on the tie down towards the rear of the vehicle and 6" over from the outside of the vehicle (See the photos in my previous post).
This will be the center of the hole. I suggest drilling a small pilot hole and placing a flashlight over the hole to ensure you are properly positioned.
You can look between the wheel well cover and see the top nut. The light stream will make it obvious is you are in the correct location.
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
Rhino, first thank you very much for posting this idea. I'm installing my OME lift tomorrow and was absolutely dreading the rear upper shock mount after all the reading I've been doing. However now with this access hole drilled, it should be a cake walk.
Here are some more pictures to add that I took. Your measurements helped but one was confusing. The 6" from the interior panel was correct and I used it, however I could not understand were you measured 4" from. In the end from looking at your picture I could see the hole needed to be center of the "rib" in the floor pan. Turned out right on the money!
This view is from the DS rear door looking to the rear of the vehicle. I removed the rear carpet to do some cleaning, 6 years of dirt under there.
1 1/2" hole saw I purchased to make the hole.
I first drilled a pilot hole right on the measurement, but I could not see if it was on the mark. So I drilled a second hole just offset where I could shine a flashlight through and see if my main hole was correct, which it was.
Here is the completed 1 1/2" hole drilled.
Here is a shot showing how I measured for the hole location, 6" from the interior trim panel on the right.
I've stopped by one local hardware store and could not find anything suitable to plug the hole. Might have to order something online to fit the bill.
Here are some more pictures to add that I took. Your measurements helped but one was confusing. The 6" from the interior panel was correct and I used it, however I could not understand were you measured 4" from. In the end from looking at your picture I could see the hole needed to be center of the "rib" in the floor pan. Turned out right on the money!
This view is from the DS rear door looking to the rear of the vehicle. I removed the rear carpet to do some cleaning, 6 years of dirt under there.
1 1/2" hole saw I purchased to make the hole.
I first drilled a pilot hole right on the measurement, but I could not see if it was on the mark. So I drilled a second hole just offset where I could shine a flashlight through and see if my main hole was correct, which it was.
Here is the completed 1 1/2" hole drilled.
Here is a shot showing how I measured for the hole location, 6" from the interior trim panel on the right.
I've stopped by one local hardware store and could not find anything suitable to plug the hole. Might have to order something online to fit the bill.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
would this solve the problem of accessing the rear shocks? Or is a vertical bolt just as hard to unscrew as a horizontal bolt on the 100 series? Idk if that made sense haha
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Snake Racing online store Australia - Shop for Trick Off Road Componentry for your 4x4, 4WD vehicle
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
Those are very similar to the mounts spressmon is running on his 100 with the custom FOX shocks. That does help the problem of the rear bolt, but means you also have to run a custom rear shock, not the one design for the 100.
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
I forgot to mention, be very careful drilling that pilot hole, especially on the driver side. Somewhere around 7-8" in from the interior panel there are several lines just under the floor pan which are either fuel or brake lines. You don't want to hit those!
- Thread starter
- #38
Glad to hear it worked our for you and your enhancements to my post with the dimensions is a plus.
I'm not into working harder. I always look for a quicker/faster better way to approach things.
I'm not into working harder. I always look for a quicker/faster better way to approach things.
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
So I used this trick today and it made the rear suspension a breeze. A buddy and I using a floor jack and jack stands did the entire rear suspension in 30 mins taking our time. If you really busted ass you could do it in 15-20 mins. Talk about a life saver!
- Thread starter
- #40
Let me know if you find the correct size plugs. I've experimented with several different types, but still haven't found anything I like.
