hoser
SILVER Star
^^^ my thoughts too.
(10/21 UPDATE fixed) Wheel bearing failed.
- Thread starter nitteo
- Start date
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trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Would having cryo rotors helped this rotor from cracking?
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
good ol' brake caliper, doing its job to keep the wheel vaguely attached
hoser
SILVER Star
If you keep your mechanic, I'd suggest going with dual calipers. 
Are you planning to reach out to original mechanic and see if he is willing to work with you on getting fixed at preferred shop or cover some of the new parts?, because what if that caused more damage or someone got hurt. You can't let that mechanic off free?
Is there a way I could inspect my front, this is making me nervous because I am planning a camping trip this weekend and I already snapped two stud on the back left because a tire shop cross threaded them.
@thebeedeegee - Do you know when the wheel bearings were last serviced? The failure @nitteo had is quite unique and not common at all. A quick and easy way to see if this failure would happen to you would be to check that there is a tab bent down on the 54mm nuts. You could even reset the bearing preload... but if you are in it that far, you might as well finish pulling the hub, repack the bearings and put it back together with a new oil seal, flange gasket and axle shaft c-clip.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
The thing about the studs on the front is that to change one you have to pull the whole thing apart.. then correctly re-set the preload, install the cir-clips, etc, etc. I fear the day I go to pickup at the tire store and they inform me they've just changed a front stud on my 100. This is just my 2c but I'd need to sit calmly for a bit before my convo with said mechanic. Damn.
$1 says they did not install the hub nut lock washer correctly, or at all.
According to the lexus records it was done at 97k (at 178k now)...or at least it says "inspect and/or repack wheel bearings" so who knows if they actually did it or just looked at it and said "yeah looks ok"
Thanks for the info, though, I'm scared to even take the wheel off since I found all those damaged studs on the rear, but I think I'm going to have to do that tonight. I need to be sure I can actually change a tire if I need to.
If the hub lock nuts weren't locked in place with lock washer and somehow backed off, don't you think the entire wheel would have come off and rolled away?
My "guess" ( since that's what we're all doing ahead of getting more detailed pictures from thread originator) is that the bolts holding the rotor to the hub sheared off when the front wheel hit down or slammed into ground per the OP's description. Those bolts are problematic on old rigs- they rust and get frozen in place, so most likely when the tech replaced the broken lug studs, either the mounting bolts were weakend in the process of removing the hub from the rotor, or maybe damaged when removed, or one broke off and only 4 were installed, or over/under torqued when reinstalled. Who knows. But the fact that the wheel was still attached to the spindle tells me that the locking nuts were still on the spindle. Also is a good idea to replace those hub bolts when removing old ones while changing rotor or lug studs.
My "guess" ( since that's what we're all doing ahead of getting more detailed pictures from thread originator) is that the bolts holding the rotor to the hub sheared off when the front wheel hit down or slammed into ground per the OP's description. Those bolts are problematic on old rigs- they rust and get frozen in place, so most likely when the tech replaced the broken lug studs, either the mounting bolts were weakend in the process of removing the hub from the rotor, or maybe damaged when removed, or one broke off and only 4 were installed, or over/under torqued when reinstalled. Who knows. But the fact that the wheel was still attached to the spindle tells me that the locking nuts were still on the spindle. Also is a good idea to replace those hub bolts when removing old ones while changing rotor or lug studs.
NicaNorth
Supporting Vendor
On my way home from the trail, mile 185/200. Glad the wheel didnt separate and have a catastrophe.
So, what do I look for to repair/ replace? Hub, Bearing, Disc, Caliper, Pads at the least.
Any updates on what failed here?!
That is unbelievable. That’s what I call, “hanging by a thread!”
It appears the entire hub was torn from the rotor. This surely tested the strength of the spindle nuts as I’m not sure what else would be holding on at that point.
I’m trying to dissect each component in my head and can’t quite put my finger on the first item to fail because what is depicted is insanely odd.
In the utmost respect, I’m looking forward to an update!
- Thread starter
- #55
updated with pics. gonna take apart the hub from the spacer to get a look at what failed inside.
im gonna need a new cv axle, the spindle is fubar
im gonna need a new cv axle, the spindle is fubar
I had been waiting for them to come out with the 100 series poster. Those are super nice. I need to get one to hang next to my 70 series one.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Where's the brake rotor?
- Thread starter
- #58
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've been wondered if the nuts could walk off. With snap ring and caliper as a safety's holding rotor/hub in. Seems the answer is YES!
I've seen my share of lock washers not properly set, then locking and adjusting nuts loosening. But I've never even heard of a 100 series hub walking off the spindle..
Preliminary parts list;
Differential side oil seal (advisable when replace FDS).
FDS (AKA CV).
Rotor.
Wheel bearing and race set.
Hub oil seal.
Claw washer.
Adjusting and lock nuts, wheel bearing.
Lock washer.
Hub flange gasket.
Hub flange.
Snap ring, fitted for gap.
Close inspection for possible damage and replacement:
6 cone washers.
Steering knuckle.
Wheel bearing hub.
Caliper & pads (Pads on both sides may be advisable & machined other rotor)
Wheel Speed sensor.
Curious:
Is the rotor OEM?
Were the two spindle nuts and a lock washer found in grease cap?
I've seen my share of lock washers not properly set, then locking and adjusting nuts loosening. But I've never even heard of a 100 series hub walking off the spindle..
Preliminary parts list;
Differential side oil seal (advisable when replace FDS).
FDS (AKA CV).
Rotor.
Wheel bearing and race set.
Hub oil seal.
Claw washer.
Adjusting and lock nuts, wheel bearing.
Lock washer.
Hub flange gasket.
Hub flange.
Snap ring, fitted for gap.
Close inspection for possible damage and replacement:
6 cone washers.
Steering knuckle.
Wheel bearing hub.
Caliper & pads (Pads on both sides may be advisable & machined other rotor)
Wheel Speed sensor.
Curious:
Is the rotor OEM?
Were the two spindle nuts and a lock washer found in grease cap?
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