1.5F to 2F Swap- water pump and accessories

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L

LAMc207

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Mar 6, 2014
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In the middle of an engine swap on a '74 40 series that has (had) a 1.5F with Saginaw PS. The 2F that is going in was sourced from a desmogged 85 FJ60 with the oil cooler and still has the fan clutch. The 1.5F locked down while driving; haven't opened it up yet to determine if it was a heat or oil issue, but want to go ahead and PM the water pump while it's out.

What's the best bet to get the 60 2F to work with the 40 fan/radiator set up? Something like this? Water Pump w/ Oil Cooler - w/out Fan Clutch AISIN Brand - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 1975-1979 - https://cruisercorps.com/products/water-pump-with-oil-cooler-without-fan-clutch-aisin-brand?variant=12736707297346 Keeping the oil cooler would be nice, but not essential. I guess I could also go to a 60 fan and shroud if there's a bigger benefit to having a clutched fan.

Also trying to identify this gasket if anyone has any pointers. Didn't have this one on the 40, but trying to retain the 60 manifold to get rid of a leaky set of headers on the 1.5F

Previous 1.5F had been upgraded to electronic distributor and Trollhole carb previously, so hoping to retain those and the 40 alternator.

IMG_20240606_083429.jpg
 
Use the fan with clutch and source a fan shroud from a 40 with a 2f. Check your oil pan for clearance issues. I can’t remember what the issue was but I know the oil pump and I think the pan are different from 40 to 60.
 
Thanks for the replies. Donor engine came with the clutch, but no fan, so I will source a fan and pulley.

Next goof, I ordered a diaphragm clutch kit since I had a factory 4 speed. Already had the 2F flywheel resurfaced. I've got the three finger clutch, build date 6/74, so just missed the newer style. Stuck between trying to source the fork, pivots, and carrier versus just ordering the three speed clutch and resurfacing the original flywheel.
 
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Updating, I was able to get all the supporting clutch pieces (pivot, fork, carrier, slave) from BNB. I had already gotten a later model bellhousing, but missed some obvious details (below).

The rest of the engine swap went well. Sourced the smallest clutch compatible fan and a few other odds and ends from Cruiser Outfitters and it fit the 2F shroud I was using with no issues.

Had a local exhaust shop tie in the factory manifold to the muffler set up that was already on this 40, eliminating the old headers.

Drive home great, minus a very noisy clutch when engaged. Also had some stall/RPM drop with the clutch engaged in neutral. After digging into this more, we routed the new 4 speed fork out the (US) driver's side, rather than the passenger side like the later models. Assuming this is the root cause of the noise and stall issues (more leverage and more pressure on flywheel/TOB caused by the different fork/linkage of the later model components). Is it possible to swap the fork side without dropping the trans? Also blew out the slave working on adjustments, so I'll do it right this time with a new hydraulic system end to end.
 
I don't think you can remove the clutch fork without pulling the transmission back. I think the clutch fork mounting is mirror-image side to side, it shouldn't matter what side it's on. I've been wrong before though.
 
Finally got a chance to look at the clutch issue (cruiser is at my parent's). Mechanic said the new throw out (Aisin) was a snug fit on the carrier. Going to try to lube the throw out thru the fork window. Otherwise, sounds like a bad (new) or bound bearing. Anything else I could be missing?

Video of sound
 
I am running a 3F fan - fins on the blades move more air
 
View thru the inspection cover as we're chasing down the noise, first clutch job. I noticed the clip is touching the back of the TOB, but that side should not spin, correct? New bearing seems right still, here's a video of the movement.

Noticing now the throw out bearing and carrier direction looks different from other threads I have seen. Not sure if the install is incorrect or the it's just a different part.

IMG_20240819_123453.jpg
 
It looks like there is too much "pedal free play." For 75 and newer the specs are .02 to .12-inches, or .5 to 3-mm; it looks like you have significantly more than that. After you get the pedal height correct (8.6 or 8.5-inches), you adjust the pushrod length at the slave cylinder to correct "pedal free play." That will likely change the geometry of the fork so the bearing isn't rubbing on the fork.
 
Grayscale said:
It looks like there is too much "pedal free play." For 75 and newer the specs are .02 to .12-inches, or .5 to 3-mm; it looks like you have significantly more than that. After you get the pedal height correct (8.6 or 8.5-inches), you adjust the pushrod length at the slave cylinder to correct "pedal free play." That will likely change the geometry of the fork so the bearing isn't rubbing on the fork.
Click to expand...
Thanks, should have mentioned, slave is completely disconnected here, we had pulled it off for a new hydraulic system and we're moving the fork by hand.
 
That's not the OE Toyota ( Nachi ) bearing, so it's hard to tell, but I think the TOB is in backwards. See how you've got that scrapping on the Pressure Plate fingers?

Is this the setup that's in your 1.5F or in the FJ60 2F? I'm not exactly following what you're doing...

Did you reuse the 1.5F TOB hub, or use a 2F hub?

If putting the late 2F into your '74, and using the 2F style Pressure Plate/clutch, you should be using everything from the FJ60, from the Bellhousing forward, i.e. flywheel, TO hub, Fork, etc...

If you swap out that TO bearing, get the Toyota one. Much more robust than the aftermarket.
 
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Good pic, Pighead.... Looks like the OPs TOB is backwards.... And using the 1.5F TOB hub.
 
Spike Strip said:
Looks like the OPs TOB is backwards.... And using the 1.5F TOB hub.
Click to expand...
Concur TOB is backwards. Hub is probably 2F, the clips for the earlier hubs are very different and don't work with later hubs.
My 1.5F (12/74) came with a 3-finger clutch and a 4-speed transmission.
 
Spike Strip said:
That's not the OE Toyota ( Nachi ) bearing, so it's hard to tell, but I think the TOB is in backwards. See how you've got that scrapping on the Pressure Plate fingers?

Is this the setup that's in your 1.5F or in the FJ60 2F? I'm not exactly following what you're doing...

Did you reuse the 1.5F TOB hub, or use a 2F hub?

If putting the late 2F into your '74, and using the 2F style Pressure Plate/clutch, you should be using everything from the FJ60, from the Bellhousing forward, i.e. flywheel, TO hub, Fork, etc...

If you swap out that TO bearing, get the Toyota one. Much more robust than the aftermarket.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Correct, Aisin clutch kit and bearing. Leaning towards a backwards TOB. Thread was following parts compatibility between an early '74 1.5F and later model 2F.

FJ60 2F is now in, installed, and running great. Only issues are the clutch swap which I had done concurrently. This was a factory 4 speed with 3 finger clutch. Everything in front of the trans is now 2F/4 speed diaphragm clutch.

Spike Strip said:
Good pic, Pighead.... Looks like the OPs TOB is backwards.... And using the 1.5F TOB hub.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
My reasoning was also backwards TOB, that's what I was trying to confirm. This is (should be?) the correct later model clutch hub, but I think it looks weird with the bearing on backwards. I supplied a new hub for install. Planning to replace with factory bearings this time since its gotta come back out anyway.
 
Wow, just checked, that TOB 90363-52001-77 (older # 90363-52001) has been discontinued ??

Shizzle.
 
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